Reeds Working on reeds: preparation, maintenance and care

Preparing a reed for playing (summary)​


1. Moisten the reed: Place the reed in a cup of water (or in your mouth if you prefer) for around 30 seconds to a minute. This will allow the reed to absorb water and make it play more easily.

2. Adjust the reed: After soaking, take the reed out of the water and examine it. Some reeds may be thicker than others or have uneven tips. Use a reed knife or reed clipper to shape the reed to your liking. Make small adjustments at first, as it’s easier to take more off than to add back on.

3. Clean the reed: After adjusting the reed, wipe it down with a cloth or tissue to remove any excess water or debris.

4. Test the reed: Once the reed is adjusted and cleaned, test it on your saxophone. Play various notes and listen for any buzzing or unevenness in the sound. Adjust the reed as needed until it plays smoothly.

5. Store the reed: When you’re finished playing, remove the reed from the mouthpiece and store it in a reed holder or case. This will help keep the reed from drying out or getting damaged.

Remember, reed preparation is a personal preference and may require some trial-and-error to find what works best for you. But following these steps should help you get started on the right path!

Care & Storage​

I find that reeds play best when wet, you can moisten them in your mouth for a while or soak them in a glass of water (some people recommend alcohol such as vodka). If you have the time and patience, it is a good idea to “run in” a new reed by wetting for a few minutes every day for three or four days before playing. If a reed has become warped due to drying out too quickly after playing it may need several minutes soaking, otherwise I prefer to just moisten with saliva.

It is best to store cane reeds on a flat surface, which obviously helps to keep the reed from warping, but it can also be a good idea to actually stop it drying out at all when you are not playing it, as the constant wetting and drying process can shorten the life of the reed. Plus, if it is kept even very slightly moist, then it will always be ready to play when you put it on the mouthpiece – reeds that have totally dried out often crinkle at the tip when remoistened.

The perfect storage method is the ReedJuvinate . This system involves a watertight storage container with three reedholders and a sponge which can be kept moist, and so ensuring the reeds never actually dry out.

If you use Listerine (recommended) or low sugar content alcohol such as vodka, then this will also prevent mould or microbes growing on the reed – something that you find often happens if you keep reeds in a glass of water.

The reed holders work perfectly for any reed from sopranino to bass and are ideal for rotating three reeds, and a really neat feature is the magnetic metal strip (see image) so you can easily attach it to a music or microphone stand.

Conditioning a cane reed (aka Preparing or “prepping” a reed)​

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKM9wRIvYmk


It’s unlikely that all the reeds in a box will play well. You can improve the immediate playability of a reed sometimes. If the underside of the reed is not flat, traditionally saxophone players flatten it by (a) taking a piece of fine emery paper, lay it flat on a piece of glass and gently sand the bottom of the reed by moving the reed across the emery paper lengthwise or (b) scraping gently with a razor blade holding the blade almost at right angles across the whole width of the reed and use steady smooth strokes.

Checking again after you have played on it for a while​

After a reed has been played on, the wetness can sometimes cause further slight distortion. Often this can be cured by simply tightening the ligature slightly, but it can also be worth reflattening the bottom of the reed.

Swollen or warped saxophone cane reed


You can see how this reed has become concave due to swelling. However, this could be symptom of an uneven mouthpiece table causing water or spit to get under the reed.

Altering the strength of cane reeds​

You can easily make a reed harder or softer yourself.

Making a reed harder​


To make it harder you can clip the end off with a reed trimmer. At a pinch you can try the old fashioned method which is to find a coin with the same curve, hold it against the end of the reed and burn off a little at a time. Trimming a reed may not be ideal as it changes the basic geometry of the reed – the heart becomes closer to the tip so you should not trim off more than about 1/32 of an inch (1.5 mm).

 Trimming cane reeds


The slightly shaded area represents the thicker bit of reed you would see if you hold it up to the light. The heart is very important.
Imagine taking a bit off the tip, the heart therefore becomes closer to the tip so upsetting the possibly ideal contour as in this picture of a reed that has had too much trimmed, you can see there is very little shaved reed between the heart and tip:

Cane Reed Trimming


See how the heart is closer to the tip with the clipped reed
There are other problems involved with using a reed clipper to rejuvenate an old reed:

  1. The reed gets a built-in bend following the curve of the mouthpiece lay (possibly worse for those of us who leave the reed on the mouthpiece)
  2. The composition of cane reeds can deteriorate: the fibres break down due to saliva saturation and constant flexing and vibration of the reed, so even if you have cured the reed of being too soft, it will still not vibrate as well as a younger reed.
A reed clipper in this case is likely to have only a short-term beneficial effect, but with the side effect of compromising the make up of the reed (ie the heart becoming closer to the tip as I said earlier). If this side effect is not as pronounced as the beneficial effect of “hardening” the reed, then you may have a few more minutes or even hours of use from the reed.

Softening Cane Reeds​

First make sure you have given the reed a chance to “settle in” by blowing it for a while.
The traditional method is to use reed rush, fine sand paper or a very sharp blade to gradually remove material from the top of the reed.

You can also use the wonderful all-purpose reed tool, the Reedgeek, (see above) which I highly recommend (watch this space for a review). This comes with some instructions on where and how to remove material.

Making a cane reed softer
Remove material from the top, at the sides.
Check first whether the reed appears symmetrical. If not then first remove material from the side which seems heaviest when you look through it at a light source, otherwise you can remove material from both sides equally. Shave the sides (of the top) towards the tip, don’t sand or scrape the middle or heart of the reed unless you are really experienced or if it is very obviously asymmetrical. The heart should be bullet shaped as in the pictures above when you hold it to the light. Do not remove any material from the tip or near the tip.
 
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As one ages, their mouths do not produce as much saliva as before. In community band rehearsal, I open my bottle of water and dunk the reed into it up to the reed shaved portion near the butt end.

(Well, I am the only one drinking from it. Also keeps people from nicking it.) 🍭 just joshing. 😉

Let it soak a little bit, shake off excess water, then mount it.
 
Does appear to be the case with spit, I don't seem to have much of it available these days !
Whatever reed I'm using will be on the mouthpiece already, I simply hold it under the cold tap for a few secs, shake off the excess, and go....
 
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The following is my own thoughts and opinions and I don't say it's the right thing to do with reeds!! The instructions is translated from Swedish to English so I'm not sure I got the right expressions. So please don't judge me to hard!

The quality and playablity of reeds are better nowadays. The machines and the methods for reedmaking have made a big progress over the years. You don't find so many "really reeds" in box nowadays. When I look at unused reeds from the 20's, 30's ... to today the evenness and playablity of the reeds have become better and better through the years. So there is less need for prepare reeds nowadays. But you can "wake up a tired" reed by doing some "voodoo"! I used to rotate over two or four reeds because the reedgards I used hold two or four reeds. I don't do reed preparation anymore. I'm playing Rico Plasticcover. ;}



My teacher in the mid 70's gave me the following instructions. I'm sure you can find simular instructions in saxophone books... :

1. The reed is to soft and produce a "buzzy" sound: Use the reedtrimmer. Just small pieces between the testplaying.
2. The reed has less resonance and produce a dull sound when you play soft: Polish 1 and 2 with sandpaper.
3. The reed has less resonance in the low register: Polish 2 with sandpaper.
4. The tip of the reed is to thick after using the reedtrimmer: Gentle polish the 7+8, the backside of the reed, with a file or a whetstone.
5. If the reed is overall/general hard to play: Gentle polish 7+8, the backside of the reed, with a file or a whetstone.
6. Reed is squaking: Balance 2.
7. Hard to make a soft attack in the high register: Polish gentle 2+1 with sandpaper.
8. Powerless or week tone in the high register: Polish 3 with sandpaper.
9. The mid-register has less resonance: Polish 4 with sandpaper.
10. The low register is hard to play: Use a razorblade on 6.
11. The reed is still hard/heavy to blow: Polish and balance 6,5,4 3 with razorblade and sandpaper.


X is a important area of the reed and shall not be prepared/worked! If you look against a light the reed shall have a symmetric "V-shaped heart" in the middle of the reed.

You need: A small glas plate or plexiglass plate, file (plane), whetstone (plane), reedtrimmer, fine-grained sandpaper, and razorblades.

Keep the reed wet while you are working. Always work in the direction of the fibrer. Take it easy.! Just small adjustments. Try on a old reed before you prepare a new.

Thomas
Here is more information to the text above. A picture of a reed it's helps up!?!?!
IMG_5096.webp.
 
Whether or not working on reeds is a better idea than buying reeds of the right brand and strength, I am puzzled by the advice to work on them when wet, which I've seen in a few places. Usually you don't sand wet material unless you're putting finish on something. Has anyone ever heard a reason to do it this way?
 
For flattening the back of a reed, it should be wet because the fibers will have swollen slightly, so you get the back truly flat.

For working on the vamp, the purpose is to make it play better. How are you going to know if what you did had the right effect unless you are testing the reed before and after working on it? The reed should be wet enough to play. Just use wet-or-dry sandpaper. Or a knife. Or reed rush (aka “Dutch rush” aka “scouring rush” aka horsetail).

I read through this thread yesterday, thank you @Pete Thomas for bringing it back, but there is a lot of misinformation in here.

Many people think reed adjustment is a black art, but it’s really simple. Cane, being an organic material, is not very consistent, so no two reeds are alike, and most of them can benefit from some tweaking. Use the appropriate tool to make each reed play better. Don’t sand or scrape the heart (spine) of the reed, be willing to sacrifice a few on your way to learning what works, and you’ll never have to worry about reeds again.

Oh yeah, and take everything everyone, myself included, says about reeds with a kilo of salt…
 

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