Reeds Working on reeds: preparation, maintenance and care

Preparing a reed for playing (summary)​

1. Soak the reed: Place the reed in a cup of water for around 30 seconds to a minute. This will allow the reed to absorb water and make it play more easily.

2. Adjust the reed: After soaking, take the reed out of the water and examine it. Some reeds may be thicker than others or have uneven tips. Use a reed knife or reed clipper to shape the reed to your liking. Make small adjustments at first, as it’s easier to take more off than to add back on.

3. Clean the reed: After adjusting the reed, wipe it down with a cloth or tissue to remove any excess water or debris.

4. Test the reed: Once the reed is adjusted and cleaned, test it on your saxophone. Play various notes and listen for any buzzing or unevenness in the sound. Adjust the reed as needed until it plays smoothly.

5. Store the reed: When you’re finished playing, remove the reed from the mouthpiece and store it in a reed holder or case. This will help keep the reed from drying out or getting damaged.

Remember, reed preparation is a personal preference and may require some trial-and-error to find what works best for you. But following these steps should help you get started on the right path!

Care & Storage​

I find that reeds play best when wet, you can moisten them in your mouth for a while or soak them in a glass of water (some people recommend alcohol such as vodka). If you have the time and patience, it is a good idea to “run in” a new reed by wetting for a few minutes every day for three or four days before playing. If a reed has become warped due to drying out too quickly after playing it may need several minutes soaking, otherwise I prefer to just moisten with saliva.

It is best to store cane reeds on a flat surface, which obviously helps to keep the reed from warping, but it can also be a good idea to actually stop it drying out at all when you are not playing it, as the constant wetting and drying process can shorten the life of the reed. Plus, if it is kept even very slightly moist, then it will always be ready to play when you put it on the mouthpiece – reeds that have totally dried out often crinkle at the tip when remoistened.

The perfect storage method is the ReedJuvinate™ . This system involves a watertight storage container with three reedholders and a sponge which can be kept moist, and so ensuring the reeds never actually dry out.

If you use Listerine (recommended) or low sugar content alcohol such as vodka, then this will also prevent mould or microbes growing on the reed – something that you find often happens if you keep reeds in a glass of water.

The reed holders work perfectly for any reed from sopranino to bass and are ideal for rotating three reeds, and a really neat feature is the magnetic metal strip (see image) so you can easily attach it to a music or microphone stand.

Conditioning a cane reed (aka Preparing or “prepping” a reed)​

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKM9wRIvYmk


It’s unlikely that all the reeds in a box will play well. You can improve the immediate playability of a reed sometimes. If the underside of the reed is not flat, traditionally saxophone players flatten it by (a) taking a piece of fine emery paper, lay it flat on a piece of glass and gently sand the bottom of the reed by moving the reed across the emery paper lengthwise or (b) scraping gently with a razor blade holding the blade almost at right angles across the whole width of the reed and use steady smooth strokes.

Checking again after you have played on it for a while​

After a reed has been played on, the wetness can sometimes cause further slight distortion. Often this can be cured by simply tightening the ligature slightly, but it can also be worth reflattening the bottom of the reed.

You can see how this reed has become concave due to swelling. However, this could be symptom of an uneven mouthpiece table causing water or spit to get under the reed.

Altering the strength of cane reeds​

You can easily make a reed harder or softer yourself.

Making a reed harder​

To make it harder you can clip the end off with a reed trimmer. At a pinch you can try the old fashioned method which is to find a coin with the same curve, hold it against the end of the reed and burn off a little at a time. Trimming a reed may not be ideal as it changes the basic geometry of the reed – the heart becomes closer to the tip so you should not trim off more than about 1/32 of an inch (1.5 mm).

The slightly shaded area represents the thicker bit of reed you would see if you hold it up to the light. The heart is very important.
Imagine taking a bit off the tip, the heart therefore becomes closer to the tip so upsetting the possibly ideal contour as in this picture of a reed that has had too much trimmed, you can see there is very little shaved reed between the heart and tip:

See how the heart is closer to the tip with the clipped reed
There are other problems involved with using a reed clipper to rejuvenate an old reed:

1. The reed gets a built-in bend following the curve of the mouthpiece lay (possibly worse for those of us who leave the reed on the mouthpiece)
2. The composition of cane reeds can deteriorate: the fibres break down due to saliva saturation and constant flexing and vibration of the reed, so even if you have cured the reed of being too soft, it will still not vibrate as well as a younger reed.

A reed clipper in this case is likely to have only a short-term beneficial effect, but with the side effect of compromising the make up of the reed (ie the heart becoming closer to the tip as I said earlier). If this side effect is not as pronounced as the beneficial effect of “hardening” the reed, then you may have a few more minutes or even hours of use from the reed.

Softening Cane Reeds​

First make sure you have given the reed a chance to “settle in” by blowing it for a while.
The traditional method is to use reed rush, fine sand paper or a very sharp blade to gradually remove material from the top of the reed.

You can also use the wonderful all-purpose reed tool, the Reedgeek, (see above) which I highly recommend (watch this space for a review). This comes with some instructions on where and how to remove material.

Remove material from the top, at the sides.
Check first whether the reed appears symmetrical. If not then first remove material from the side which seems heaviest when you look through it at a light source, otherwise you can remove material from both sides equally. Shave the sides (of the top) towards the tip, don’t sand or scrape the middle or heart of the reed unless you are really experienced or if it is very obviously asymmetrical. The heart should be bullet shaped as in the pictures above when you hold it to the light. Do not remove any material from the tip or near the tip.

 

[coachz]

This all makes a lot of sense. I'm guessing that the reed rotation provides reeds that have properties that are closer to one another than going from a worn out reed to a brand new one, thereby making it easier to keep a good reed in the sax.

I'm thinking the letting the reed rest is not scientifically based but more to allow for multiple reeds to be ready and have similar properties, not new and not old. Unless letting the reed rest actually changes the properties which I would not expect.

So the "sealing" thing I'm guessing allows a better balance of moisture into the reed, delaying the waterlogging effect. If a reed is waterlogged, can you just blow on the heel and blow out the tubes in it or would it still be too wet.

Thanks again for having this discussion. It's a very personal subject it seems.

 

[Jazzaferri]

When the cells are saturated they are saturated and it takes a while to dry out completely. In order to maximize longevity I think that reeds should dry complexly. The exception may be in really dry climes. Some guys like to keep their reeds soaked. Certainly instantly ready to play but I would think would not last as long.

 

[coachz]

So do you think the "sealing" is to get a balance between too dry and too wet ?

 

[dubrosa22]

I don't anything about sealing pores or pouring ear wax on reeds but I do break reeds in and rotate them.
But there's no science involved.

For both sax and clarinet I have 8 reeds going at one time, not all the same strength or type or brand.
I open a new reed dip it in water for about 2 minutes and play it for around 10 minutes, unless it's a real corker I usually pop in the reed holder for another day, and then I'll grab another I may have played with for only 10 minutes or 10 hours before and use that generally for the rest of the session.

Like I said no science involved! But this way I don't just try a new reed, deem it unusable and because I have no interest in trimming or scraping it, throw it away.

I would say 8 out of 10 of my reeds become playable for at least a few hours each and 3 out of 10 are real winners that I can get 10-15 hours play. Depends how hard you play 'em too I guess. 😉

 

[Nick Wyver]

Some guys like to keep their reeds soaked. Certainly instantly ready to play but I would think would not last as long.

They last longer, actually.

 

[aldevis]

Wet the reed for 5 to 10 mins, submerge it completely, don't submerge it completely, rub the reed with oil, chapstick, cork grease, ear wax, you name it, before soaking, no wait, do it after. Trim the reed with this special process that can even be done blindfolded under a terrorist hood.

But congratulations for the comprehensive description. I totally agree with it.
I am a bit sceptic about science. Only synthetic reeds can be approached scientifically. Wood is a mysterious matter (think of clarinets) and I quite enjoy the fact that different reeds have different individualities.

I always suspected that reeds are made according with a general shape and selected in a second time according with their flexibility or thickness or whatever a reed maker thinks is measurable.

I would like to add that only reeds harvested by virgins, in a full moon night, while the N11 bus is passing by, are worth trying.

 

[Two Voices]

A saxophonist and his / her reed is a very subjective and personal thing. What works for one, doesn’t for another. Taz advice is good for anyone starting out but as one develops their technique its inevitable to start looking more closely at the reed.

Bear in mind that the reed is only one part of the equation. Teaming a reed to a mouthpiece is also very important. However, I won’t bring that into this thread. I will say having a balanced set-up makes playing the horn throughout the it’s range easier and more enjoyable.

I prepare my reeds as follows:

The first thing I do is to soak the reed for about 4 minutes in lukewarm water. My preference is to use mineral water and nuked in the microwave and then let it cool down to lukewarm.

Then I use a clean jam jar that I’ve filled up with enough water to ensure that the tip through to the back of the vamp is submerged. A reed that is too dry or only wet at the very tip tends to squeak. Be carefully not to soak the reed for too long though as it will end up becoming waterlogged. Trial and error will soon sort that out. It does depend on the climate that you’re in at the time.

Once soaked, place the reed on a granite cheeseboard (any flat surface will do). Now place the reed so the tip is the farthest from you and the thickest closest to you. What you need to do now is massage it. To do this; start from the back of the vamp slope and with several fingers move in a smooth stroke forward towards the tip. This helps to close off the fibre ends and stabilize the reed.

Now it’s time to break-in the reed:

Play the reed no louder than mezzo or softer for 5 to 10 minutes on the first day and repeat on the second day but extend the time to 10 to 15 minutes. By doing this the reed should last longer and be more stable for full bore playing later. However, if one particular reed feels too hard then try playing all out in fortissimo instead.

You will find that the reeds will harden a little after a few days of playing, so you may find dropping a half reed strength will end up being perfect in a few days after break in.

If a reed is still too hard even after playing all out in fortissimo then make sure the reed is wet and secured on the mouthpiece with your ligature. Press firmly a few times with your thumb on the middle and rear slope area of the reed. This will help to help loosen up the fibres which will soften it up a bit.

However, take care with doing this because if you press too hard you’ll end up taking the spring and life out of the reed. If you press it too lightly you won't feel any change.

I do balance my reeds with a reed rush but I’ll save that for another day.

 

[Taz]

I have never felt the need to soak, file, sand, clip, paint or do anything else to a reed for that matter. I have also NEVER had a bad reed! In seven years of playing alto and tenor, (I can't comment on the bari 'cos I've only used a few reeds on it) I simply open a box take out a reed give it a quick suck and then play it. I don't have any issues with my tone and I don't think I have any issues with playing. I feel I get the best out of my reeds. I've certainly had some great comments from people that I've played for, and bands that I've played with. So I do wonder, have you all been sucked in? Is it just snake oil?




Lights blue touch paper and retires to a safe distance

 

[coachz]

I'm reading "The Art of Playing Saxophone" and Larry Teal says the reason to seal the vamp is to keep saliva out of the reed as it deteriorates the fibers. Also he says the reeds typically get softer over time (and says some do get harder though) so by playing them for short periods and letting them rest they get softer typically. I don't know if any of this is true as tradition has a way of being passed on with no scientific basis but interesting read anyways.

 

[TomMapfumo]

...Also he says the reeds typically get softer over time (and says some do get harder though).

Just slightly confused by the above. Did you mean "...that reeds typically get softer.." as a general comment about the natural history of reeds, or were you referring to "...the reeds...", in which case which reeds?

Kind regards
Tom

 

[aldevis]

Just slightly confused by the above. Did you mean "...that reeds typically get softer.." as a general comment about the natural history of reeds, or were you referring to "...the reeds...", in which case which reeds?

After the scientific approach to reeds, here comes the linguistic one.

There is only one truth about reeds:

If you do not practice and play a lot of gigs, the are all fine.
If you stay at home practicing and checking saxophone websites they will never work.

The new Vandoren ZZ reed is great, by the way.

 

[Two Voices]

I'm reading "The Art of Playing Saxophone" and Larry Teal says the reason to seal the vamp is to keep saliva out of the reed as it deteriorates the fibers.

Must be a very wet player if he's getting saliva on the vamp or possibly taking in way too much mouthpiece

Also he says the reeds typically get softer over time (and says some do get harder though) so by playing them for short periods and letting them rest they get softer typically.

Elementary my dear Reed ;}

 

[coachz]

He says they all generally get softer due to saliva and wear breaking them down.

Just slightly confused by the above. Did you mean "...that reeds typically get softer.." as a general comment about the natural history of reeds, or were you referring to "...the reeds...", in which case which reeds?

Kind regards
Tom

 

[coachz]

That I do believe. Beechler said the Vandorens dont work well with my M5 mpc but recommended the Rico Jazz Select 2s and 2m so I got a box of each to wear out for the next couple of years.

After the scientific approach to reeds, here comes the linguistic one.

There is only one truth about reeds:

If you do not practice and play a lot of gigs, the are all fine.
If you stay at home practicing and checking saxophone websites they will never work.

The new Vandoren ZZ reed is great, by the way.

 

[sushidushi]

I know there have been lots of messages in the past about wetting reeds, and which alcoholic beverage is best and all that, but I have a basic question, chiefly just out of curiosity.

Do reeds absorb moisture? If so, why don't they seem to swell much if left in a glass of water? If not, what good does soaking them do? Or perhaps they absorb moisture very slowly and not enough to make them swell up enough to make the tip unpointy?

Whilst I'm at it, do people drink the whisky or vodka after soaking their reeds in it?

 

[MellowD]

Do reeds absorb moisture? If so, why don't they seem to swell much if left in a glass of water? If not, what good does soaking them do? Or perhaps they absorb moisture very slowly and not enough to make them swell up enough to make the tip unpointy?

Whilst I'm at it, do people drink the whisky or vodka after soaking their reeds in it?

I'm new here and no expert. However ........ for what it may be worth (or not) ....

A reed is made of organic plant material, so by its nature it is water absorbent. Yet, the quantity of water it is able to absorb is limited by capilliary action and cavity capacity - just like a kitchen towel (as supplied by Juan Sheatte) can hold so much and then will hold no more.

I have tried the water/alcoholic beverage soak approach - and after seeing what was leeched out of the reed and into the bottom of the glass after leaving it there for a day (albeit unintentionally) - you wouldn't get me drinking the left overs for sure. Glad I used gin as a clear solution so that I saw it, instead of something darker. I have no idea what is would have been like to swallow that load in one go and any ensuing reactions!?

I haven't noticed any difference from soaking in just water to soaking in alcohol except taking on board the comments regarding quality of the alcohol being a mould preventative after use so benefitting health and reed longevity in the long term.

I'm sure you will yet have much more qualified comments than mine to come, so I will be back to see what gems I can glean for my knowledge from those too.

Mel

 

[TomMapfumo]

Hi Mel!

I simply add a small amount of alcohol - usually gin - as I do not like the taste of water alone, no other reason. The importance of wetting the whole reed from my point of view is that it means that the reed is at its most flexible and less likely to squeak when held on the mouthpiece. Simples!

 

[MellowD]

means that the reed is at its most flexible and less likely to squeak when held on the mouthpiece. Simples!

Oooh I do so like the sound of "less likely to squeak" - irritatingly I've squeaked no end at training band practice the last two weeks, and yet no squeaking at home. Perhaps this is the reason then, not wetting enough before band practice starts?

 

[What]

Oooh I do so like the sound of "less likely to squeak" - irritatingly I've squeaked no end at training band practice the last two weeks, and yet no squeaking at home. Perhaps this is the reason then, not wetting enough before band practice starts?

I have yet to try wetting reeds. I usually just have the reed in my mouth while I set up my sax. It appears to do the trick, but I might give gin a go.

 

[MellowD]

I have yet to try wetting reeds. I usually just have the reed in my mouth while I set up my sax. It appears to do the trick, but I might give gin a go.

Isn't having the reed in your mouth wetting it then? I have heard of dry mouth and excessive thirst but ...... 🙂 You are still wetting the reed as opposed to putting it straight on the mpc completely dry