Saxophones Case refurbishment

I did this case renovation a while back. A few pictures posted here and there but nothing of the complete build.
Sometimes there are no options for a aftermarket replacement case. So this is what happens when you try to restore what you have. It’s very time consuming but in this case (pun intended )worth it.

This is a case to a 1933-ish H. Bettoney metal clarinet. Initial inspection it looked like it just needed a few spots of glue.

I’ve never done a complete overhaul of a case before. Previously I’ve had some success relining the interior of a flute case.

I’ve had extensive formal training in cabinet furniture/Millworks. Originally the trade I planned my future for. Things change. This project is well within my comfort zone. I actually started to giggle because this was just stupid. I’m only doing this because I can and need the case. I already know this is going to be 50 hours of work.

 

[jbtsax]

I used the 3M Super 77 to attach the laminated "circle charts" on the wooden backs on the over 100 pad size tools I made several years ago. It worked quite well for that application and in addition, It sticks extremely well to your skin. 😳

 

[PigSquealer]

Tested Vinyl front and back to front and back of velvet. Epic failures.
Each one of these peeled apart like a Ziploc bag.

Not exactly underwriter laboratories. I did the test as a pass or fail. If the adhesive didn’t stick everywhere what good is it. The notes I took were for my own use. No I don’t study how to make hostage letters in some twisted way
This picture below I had three mole wrenches hanging from the joint. This is back to back of the interior velvet. Above picture on the left.

Face of the velvet to Wood. Even roughing up the surface made a difference. Same as above this would hold the three vise grips while glued to the wood.

 

[PigSquealer]

I've been having some success bonding mixed materials using gorilla glue.

Good to know. I didn’t try that because I wasn’t familiar with the product. If I hadn’t had success with what I tried. I would have been exploring other options. At nearly $10 a tube I wasn’t up to buying an assortment for trial.

3M Spray 90 has long been the favored chemical for cars- which is a pretty difficult environment
with heat, abrasion, etc. Might be worth a try. I also use their 'emblem adhesive' for a lot of
instrument related things, as it is 'rubberier'.
(I have a lot more auto restoration experience than instrument restoration experience!)

One of the big problems I have with repairing latches is the springs. They're almost always
some odd, contorted shape, and buried deep inside...

You're inspiring me to, at the very least, get a few cases working well, at least.

t

3M makes some excellent products. Good product information and support too. The biggest problem is here in California many chemicals are no longer available. I couldn’t even find a local car upholstery shop with any of this in stock. at $45 a gallon I only needed a cup or two.

– Google Shopping

www.google.com

I used the 3M Super 77 to attach the laminated "circle charts" on the wooden backs on the over 100 pad size tools I made several years ago. It worked quite well for that application and in addition, It sticks extremely well to your skin. 😳

77 spray was my go to. Been using it for years ! I was shocked at how bad it failed. One of the obstacles with all of this was the vinyl itself. I couldn’t find the manufacturer to contact. It’s unmarked. I purchased it on closeout from Hobby lobby. Even they couldn’t tell me the vendor.

 

[mizmar]

Just out of idle curiosity, couldn't you have primed each material with a glue that worked just for each individually, then glued the two glue sides?

 

[PigSquealer]

Just out of idle curiosity, couldn't you have primed each material with a glue that worked just for each individually, then glued the two glue sides?

Your logic on this concept is good. I did prime some. The Weldwood cement directions say. Apply to both sides. Let dry for something like 10 to 20 minutes. Assemble within one hour. With this technique the adhesive is penetrating the substrate. Hopefully locking into it. The film layer on the surface is where the two parts bond to each other. adhesive to adhesive.
Not pictured was one attempt with the PVC cement. It’s actually a two-part kit. One being a primer. it pre-softens the material to allow better chemical reaction of the adhesive. Literally the stuff melts the plastic. when solvents blow out it cures back into a solid state. Big chance of spoilage. Working time was erratic. Most important the holding power was just not there.
The Hi tack spray that I used was actually an old can I had on my shelf. You can’t get that anymore either.

The vinyl fabric is upholstery grade. I would tend to believe more for sewing, nailing and stapling into position.

Tolex is actually the proper material for instrument cases and speaker / amp boxes.

tolex for guitar amps and speaker cabinets

tolex in dozens of colors

www.speakerbuildersupply.com

here’s an article from the site on glue.

KB Results

 

[jbtsax]

Thank you for this fantastic link. tolex for guitar amps and speaker cabinets

 

[PigSquealer]

Thank you for this fantastic link. tolex for guitar amps and speaker cabinets

You’re very welcome! It took me a while to actually find the name of the product ”Tolex “. I was searching YT and the net for case repair tutorials. Searched “instrument case covering “ That’s how I actually found the name of the material.

You would think for as widely as this material is used information would be more abundant.

 

[PigSquealer]

I started laying out the fabric with a center mark on case. I want the pattern to crossover as close as I can get. Like wallpaper this material has a repetitive pattern.
The repeat is 10-1/4”. Measuring around the case width. The job requires net 9” on the lower half. Starting from the center of the area I wanted to be the top I measured outwards from there. I ruled everything out and then double checked. Marking a center target.

Measure twice cut once. The pattern lined up just fine.

Once everything checked out I drew a line from end to end with a sharpie marker. I have the same marks on the case halves. My intentions are to use this for alignment lengthwise and centered.

 

[PigSquealer]

With everything cut. I planned out each step for applying. Working in small sections should reduce the chance of wrinkles or bubbles.

”Red stop” marks for glue. Areas masked for overspray issues.

Applied adhesive to 1/2 the of flat area opposite of bell end. Both on case and fabric. Heated the fabric to relax it some(hair dryer). Using the target and center line I laid down the fabric. Work quickly to smooth out any bubbles and shape the contour.

WORK IN SMALL STEPS !!

Heat, spray adhesive, remove tape. Smooth down with soft cloth towards loose ends. bubbles? I didn’t have any. If you do just prick the spot with a needle. Work the air out.
Let stand 4-6 hours

 

[mizmar]

Snigger

 

[PigSquealer]

When working the bell contour I heated the fabric too. Keep the tool 6” away from surface. Picture was just a process step note.

Heat was also used while wrapping the edges. The floating block for support and no warping. I trimmed the fit prior the glueing

 

[PigSquealer]

One interior edge I trimmed short. Think ahead !

Next up. Sorting how to attack the ends. The square end is not the issue.

It’s the bell end with the radius contours.

 

[PigSquealer]

In the previous posts I was already mapping out how to do the ends. I could’ve easily just square cut and glued a patch on the end. I wanted to see if I could make it seamless.

My plan was to cut the end. Wrap the access onto itself and glue down.
you can see in this picture below I had already gone around the radius from the side.

There ended up being a problem with too much bulk. To reduce the bulk I took a piece of metal and heated it. Gently smoothing and flaring the ends by melting the area.

 

[PigSquealer]

Everything was good to go so I sprayed it with the contact 76 adhesive.
I kept everything masked off I didn’t want to glue on. Clean up can be done with mineral spirits…. another banned chemical in California.
A little heat to relax the material and together it went. I was a little disappointed with the cuts to the inside. First go of the face & corners wasn’t bad. Still room for improvement. I’m not concerned as the fabric will cover the ugly mess.

I repeated the process on the top half with much better success.

 

[PigSquealer]

The contour ends presented a different set of variables. On the top I proceeded by gluing the area solid to the end. The logic was that it wouldn’t bubble as I folded it around the end.
Let the glue cure overnight. Next I heated the area and stretched it evenly around the end. Let it cool and then made some relief cuts. I trimmed and flared the end wrap just like I did on the square ends in above posts.

I forgot to mention that I finished the square end with pushing in some brass brads.

Repeated the process on the upper section of the bell end. The thinner half is the top !

 

[PigSquealer]

Well pleased with the way the pattern is lining up. With this phase done it’s time to move onto the interior fabric.

With the instrument sitting on the support frame. I checked the dimensions on all four sides.I need enough space for 2 to 3 layers of fabric plus the paper board frame it’s attached to and with. That would be wrapping the paper board as two layers. The third layer is where the material drapes over the sides from the support frame.

 

[Colin the Bear]

It's turning out very nice.

 

[Jeanette]

Fabulous job so far!

Jx

 

[Colin the Bear]

That mock croc is sumptuous.

 

[PigSquealer]

That mock croc is sumptuous.

It’s really thick heavily textured material ! I’ve never worked with anything quite like it. Even all the anaglypta the wallpaper I’ve installed was easier to work with.