Saxophones Case refurbishment

I did this case renovation a while back. A few pictures posted here and there but nothing of the complete build.
Sometimes there are no options for a aftermarket replacement case. So this is what happens when you try to restore what you have. It’s very time consuming but in this case (pun intended )worth it.

This is a case to a 1933-ish H. Bettoney metal clarinet. Initial inspection it looked like it just needed a few spots of glue.

I’ve never done a complete overhaul of a case before. Previously I’ve had some success relining the interior of a flute case.

I’ve had extensive formal training in cabinet furniture/Millworks. Originally the trade I planned my future for. Things change. This project is well within my comfort zone. I actually started to giggle because this was just stupid. I’m only doing this because I can and need the case. I already know this is going to be 50 hours of work.

 

[PigSquealer]

As part of my preflight I taped some of the blocks and cardboard guards in place. Look at the picture in the above post. See the bridge piece in the middle. That’s tape holding it in place. No time to be fiddling with the glue drying.

 

[PigSquealer]

I left it sitting on the table a day. Making sure it was flat level and square. I used some riser blocks and supported directly on the piece. Not on the clamps. Not a good time today to build a twist into it.

 

[PigSquealer]

For applying the glue I used a small flux brush on these parts. Trying to squeeze out that much glue on this much area is to time consuming. Time is of the essence.

 

[Colin the Bear]

And so far, all you have is, a coffin for a chubby snake. 😉
Just kidding. Fascinating what you're doing before I even get out of bed. 🙂

 

[PigSquealer]

And so far, all you have is, a coffin for a chubby snake. 😉
Just kidding. Fascinating what you're doing before I even get out of bed. 🙂

Snake got skinny waiting for its box. Which reminds me. I need to do the overhaul. Maybe I’ll do that as a next thread. Any interest? The instruments nothing special. Actually just plain common goods. Really that’s the point. Easily obtainable for the hobbyist / musician. I think I paid something stupid like $30 for this kit.

 

[Jeanette]

Any interest?

I'm sure there will be, I find it fascinating though could never accomplish anything like it myself.

Jx

 

[PigSquealer]

I find it fascinating though could never accomplish anything like it myself.

Jx

The process is no different than cooking a family holiday meal. One step at a time with the proper ingredients. It’s the over cooking or under cooking part that takes time to learn. Things learned by eye and experience.
I‘ve burnt my bacon more than once.

 

[greenstripe]

I get the feeling that it would be significantly easier to remake from scratch using the parts as a template - obviously not the point and your commitment is commendable. Some of the process is a little reminiscent of traditional guitar building.

 

[PigSquealer]

I get the feeling that it would be significantly easier to remake from scratch using the parts as a template - obviously not the point and your commitment is commendable. Some of the process is a little reminiscent of traditional guitar building.

Starting from scratch would be a cakewalk. All the average DIY person would need is a saw to cut the pieces straight. That can be done by hand and then squared with a block plane. Build all six sides at once. Then saw into two for the top and bottom. 3/16 tempered hardboard would be my choice. 4’x8’ sheet is $30. I think that would make a couple. No need to worry about the wood grain direction either.

I have rebuilt a face on one acoustic guitar. Yes there is a lot in common.

If I really wanted to make a case quickly I have a better idea. A small sheet of 1/16” ABS or PVC plastic. I would leave the box alone. Just removed the hardware. Cut the plastic to a workable size. Heat it in the oven. Quickly lay it over the box and shape using a thick towel. I could also make a legitimate vacuum bladder using a shop vac.

On the cheap you could use a piece of wood from an old shipping pallet. I made this little oak box from a plank off a pallet 40+ years ago. Lol I picked it up in the end fell off. Another repair for today

 

[PigSquealer]

Band on a box😀. It does play a bit flat

I did wipe the glue off that one edge. Stain or finishing oil will not stick to the glue.

 

[Colin the Bear]

I think oak pallets are a thing of the past.

 

[PigSquealer]

Onward to the bottom half. This is a section that I previously prepped on the bench with bricks and such. The yellow areas is where it was split.

Bottom half goes together with the same technique as the upper half. It glued up well. Although I would probably put some more cross supports in next time. It didn’t bow bad but it wasn’t exact. About 1 mm off on the hinge side.

 

[PigSquealer]

The green areas are where I repaired the splits earlier on.

Some areas on this end there was no wood. It was just gone. I made a little mixture of sawdust and glue. Good enough to fill the void some. I’ve got a plan in the works for finishing those up.

The popsicle stick rubber band set up worked well. Was easy to adjust the angle right where I needed the pressure. Need more pressure add more rubber bands. The rubber bands are size #33

Next up I’ll be doing some tin work.

 

[PigSquealer]

I think oak pallets are a thing of the past.

Things have changed a bit since the 70s. I think I made that little oak box in 1977 or 78. I do remember I quit using the wood from pallets. Was pressure treated or something to prevent insect infestation. It didn’t glue up very well now that I’m remembering.

 

[Tenor Viol]

Fascinating to watch. I've taken to watching YT vids of a Canadian luthier... less stressful than watching the news.

 

[PigSquealer]

Fascinating to watch. I've taken to watching YT vids of a Canadian luthier... less stressful than watching the news.

Thank you. I’m glad you’re enjoying the build. No doubt anything is better than the evening news.

 

[PigSquealer]

Top and bottom assembled. I’m happy with the results.
Checking on a flat surface it appears the bottom has a tad bit of a twist. Not a problem.
The hinge side bottom still has a 1mm-2 mm bow. Also not a problem.

With the top and bottom assembled I can now begin fitting the tinwork.
The blue arrows are pointing to reliefs for the tinwork. I intentionally did not completely fill those.

The parts were not distorted much. Largely had just become detached. Still I want the end to be square to the surface.

 

[PigSquealer]

After a little cleaning prep. I soldered the joints with a big pool of metal. This needs to last a long time and I’m not worried about weight. The metal is galvanized so no need to treat. It’s already 90 years old and hasn’t rusted. The brown appearance was glue.

Looking somewhat symmetrical. No need to mark the parts. The one with the two holes goes to the bottom. That’s for attaching the protective trim.

Next I’ll be doing some structural reinforcing to the inside. This is going to need some additional strength for applying the heavy vinyl covering.

 

[PigSquealer]

After spraying everything with bleach /water. I put some cross braces on the inside. On a flat surface weighted. I let it sit for two days. The bow is gone as well as the twist.
With the tinwork installed I used a little wood filler to contour the edges and fill voids. Yard sale can of wood filler from the 70s @ $.25
it’s lacquer based and once dried anything will stick to it. Amazingly it was still moist on the inside. A splash of lacquer thinner a quick mix and on it went. Be careful not to over apply. The stuff drives like concrete.

Gently sanded the contours with 150 grit wood paper.

For additional strength in weak areas I chose cheese cloth as reinforcing material. It absorbs the white glue well. I’ve never done this before. Structural enhancement unknown but it couldn’t hurt.
I brushed the area with glue and then tacked on the doubled up cheese cloth. Once dried I soaked the entire areas. One of my concerns was not adding any additional thickness to the areas. Secondly adhesion rejection from other materials.

 

[PigSquealer]

I did the inside corners last.