Tech/maintenance Need help with vintage horn

[LarryS]

Hi, Iwas given a 1940s Pedler, in blackwood and though its a lovely instrument I notice the lowest note doesn't speak well. There's tone there but its weak. I had a bit of help to try to repair it but I'm not good with stuff like, I'm all thumbs and I have been diagnosed with Myeloma so I have reduced mobility.
A short video of the problem area.

View: https://youtu.be/FAA0KKwOarE?si=ZzzMF3NCrJXnBTzE


The horn itself

Id like to know how much it is worth as it is and how much if repaired. I don't have a car so I'm not sure how to get it fixed, but I need to sell it to help with costs incurred due to this illness I have, because of which I am unable to play any instrument that requires strong air (would sax be easier in that score)
Cheers.

 

[PigSquealer]

Looks like it needs oil and a regulation adjustment for those keys. Sorry to say but there’s just not much value in clarinet's. Too many used ones available. I just looked on Reverb.

 

[Pete Thomas]

am unable to play any instrument that requires strong air (would sax be easier in that score)

Same for me. Although strong air is required to get the best from both, I would probably find clarinet easier,

 

[LarryS]

Looks like it needs oil and a regulation adjustment for those keys. Sorry to say but there’s just not much value in clarinet's. Too many used ones available. I just looked on Reverb.

Yea but this is a vintage pedler, a pro horn

 

[JiJi]

 

[JiJi]

In red: the two keys must fit together perfectly when you press this lever.
In blue: this screw ensures the synchronization of the two keys in red.
If the pads don't seal the holes airtight, you need a technician.
Cordialement.

 

[mizmar]

How to test and adjust the crowfoot - without the screw? Still useful?

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/Sfuw2kG3OaE

 

[JiJi]

I saw your video, it's a young luthier and it's not the same type of correspondence, the Pedler system is not the same as the one in the video, so it's useless.

 

[Colin the Bear]

A thing is only worth what you can get for it. I've never heard of a Pedler before. Wood clarinets go for more than plastic or ebonite.

Putting "Pedler clarinet value" into Google gives some interesting results.

 

[mizmar]

so it's useless.

I see that - but it gives an idea how to test and what the mechanism is about. Your instructions give details..

 

[Colin the Bear]

It's not a Pedler system. It's a Boehm system.
Other systems are Simple/Albert and full Boehm.

 

[Grumps]

Yea but this is a vintage pedler, a pro horn

Older wooden clarinets can have problems innate to their making as they age. It may have been a pro clarinet almost a century ago, but these days I know pros who actually prefer non-wooden clarinets. Pedlers aren't valued at all. I had one and shipped it away for free to someone hoping maybe they could somehow bring it back so a kid could play it. Never heard back.

 

[LarryS]

Older wooden clarinets can have problems innate to their making as they age. It may have been a pro clarinet almost a century ago, but these days I know pros who actually prefer non-wooden clarinets. Pedlers aren't valued at all. I had one and shipped it away for free to someone hoping maybe they could somehow bring it back so a kid could play it. Never heard back.

Ah, thanks for the help anyway

 

[JayeNM]

THAT'S NOT A HORN 😱IT'S A CLARINET 😵

 

[LarryS]

THAT'S NOT A HORN 😱IT'S A CLARINET 😵

Horses for courses

 

[Stephen Howard]

As previously mentioned, the arm that sits above the F/C key cup houses an adjustment screw. This 'regulates' the action between the F/C key and the E/B key. When these two keys are in regulation they will both close and seal when the E/B key is pressed - either directly or via the left-hand spatula/lever key.

If you back the adjusting screw out it will mean that the low E will close before the F key...and as the low E cannot go any futher it leaves a leak at the F key. Conversely, if you screw the adjuster in it will mean that the F key closes before the E key - and thus you have a leak at the E. In this instance the E key is said to be 'held off'.
Assuming the F and E key pads are able to seat properly, a leak between the two can be 'dialed out' with the aid of the adjusting screw. A good place to start would be to place your left palm over the end of the lower joint to seal it off, finger a low E, put the lower joint to your lips and blow into the joint with a moderate pressure. If air escapes, you have a leak. From there it's a matter of ascertaining which of the two keys leaks - and as you have an adjusting screw it's relatively simple to back the screw off so that the F key can be visibly seen not to close...and then wind it in until you find the sweet spot where both keys close.

But....and there's always a but...
Whether you can get both keys to close when the E is directly pressed down and when the left-hand spatula is used depends on whether there's any play in the action.
Also, getting both keys to seal depends on whether the pads are seating in the first place. If they're not then you're on a hiding to nothing.

Best bet would be to test the pad seats before you start:

Testing for leaky pads on woodwind instruments

How to test for leaking pads on a woodwind instrument.

www.shwoodwind.co.uk

From looking at the video I suspect the pads on the E/F key are too thick - so they'll be leaking from the front of the toneholes.
All things considered I think you'd be better off bunging this at a repairer.

 

[LarryS]

Thanks. There is a repairer but a couple of bus rides out and I'm out of money. I wonder how much I could sell it as is. It does play:

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[LarryS]

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[Pete Thomas]

Put it on eBay with a low starting price, there’s a good chance it will end up getting what it’s worth.

 

[LarryS]

Cheers