Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

PigSquealer · Friday at 10:46 AM

skeller047 said:
Are you doing a full repad? If so, Dawn will get the hair off. If not, then a good wipe with Pledge sprayed on a cloth will do. You will have to completely disassemble, right? Dawn for the body, and Pledge for the keys. Fresh oil everywhere.

Think I’ll just give it a shampoo and a haircut. Soak in Lysol for a week. Then I’ll do the overhaul.

PigSquealer · Friday at 11:00 AM

Woodpad said:
Green gobler industrial gel strength? works as industrial cleaner, no known use on saxophones.

Thanks for the suggestion. Didn’t know about this product. This is available in California. Bad timing to test new products. I do have a scrapper to test this on later.
I’ll most likely use Dawn soap and or Simple Green. Pre treatment on dry thick grease & oil areas with WD-40.

globoglobito · Friday at 6:53 PM

PigSquealer said:
The alto is in better condition View attachment 34574
Not sure if I should paint the “S”

I'd wager that's an early Alto with the 'SS' octave. As far as I have seen they come without the blue enamel (mine is still going strong thanks fort he coat of paint)

PigSquealer · Friday at 10:18 PM

turf3 said:
PS, I think that alto octave key may be off a Grassi.

globoglobito said:
I'd wager that's an early Alto with the 'SS' octave. As far as I have seen they come without the blue enamel (mine is still going strong thanks fort he coat of paint)

It’s actually a limited edition factory Selmer sax & part.
The emblem is often mistaken as “SS” or Grassi part. Yes, it’s an early alto.
The “SC scroll ” is difficult to see, but that’s what it is.
“SC” Selmer et Cie or Selmer and Company. I think these were US market horns only. The limited edition was a different more elaborate engraving. This is original lacquer and I don’t think they had the blue enamel highlight.

PigSquealer · Saturday at 9:26 PM

Anyone ever notice these numbers in a drill bit index ?

They can be very useful for selecting the proper hole size for tapping threads. A handy chart helps make the choice once the needed tap is determined.

Some indexes have a tap & bit size on the first row of case rack.

mark_addy · Saturday at 10:39 PM

Over here that stuff usually lives in a 'Zeus book'. I don't know why it got called that, but everyone (in engineering) knows it...

https://www.moonshiners.org.uk/MZ/zeus.pdf

A reassuring mess of metric and English sizes there. The lab I work in was tooled up in the 60s and still behaves in the same kind of way!

PigSquealer · Saturday at 11:35 PM

mark_addy said:
Over here that stuff usually lives in a 'Zeus book'. I don't know why it got called that, but everyone (in engineering) knows it...

https://www.moonshiners.org.uk/MZ/zeus.pdf

A reassuring mess of metric and English sizes there. The lab I work in was tooled up in the 60s and still behaves in the same kind of way!

That’s some great charts ! I’ve never seen one for Whitworth sizes. Life gets interesting sometimes working on the hardware. Like trying to guess what country and what year an item was made. Pre WWII non SAE US hardware is really inconsistent as you know the standards weren’t established yet.
I own a mid year 1969 Triumph motorcycle. That’s a hardware conversion year. Whitworth to SAE. If they ran out of a Whitworth bit in went a SAE. In servicing a given assembly. I just take out both sets of spanners. I can relate to the mess well.
Thanks for the link 😃

PigSquealer · Sunday at 6:39 AM

PigSquealer said:
Grrrrr.
Note to self. Make shellac sticks ASAP.
View attachment 34285

Note to self. Read your notes. Nothing like going to install pads and you’re out of shellac sticks. Each of the different sizes are for different application control. IE ; big stick for 40mm and larger pads. Small for 20mm pads. The six large ones (2 oz. each.) will complete a full tenor with about 3” leftover.