Tech/maintenance Metal Clarinet service repad

It’s been a couple hours and I decided to go back out to the garage. Wow it’s much cooler now:confused:
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fwiw sorry about the typos folks. Spellcheck/auto correct is brutal. I keep having to go back and make edits. I’ve completely given up on proper use of language months ago. A post should take less than 10 minutes not a half hour. Still enjoyable work/ hobby.
I primarily work off an iPad. I’ve reset the library several times to no benefit😡
 
If it's any consolation, I am of the opinion that Apple made changes to predictive text and auto-correct a few months ago since over last few months I have had endless issues with what is posted bearing little resemblance to what I've typed and I then have to go through and correct it. I suspect some "AI" has ben added to try to guess at what you're typing and that may be way out of alignment with what you typed.
 
I read somewhere the keys are silver plated, nickel silver.
I think my metal clarinet is a Bettony.
It doesn't have the projection for gigging.

I'm using a plastic Selmer 1400 at the mo. It's supposed to be the same as the Bundy 1400 I've been using for decades but the keyword is better the tone is a little sweeter and it projects better.
 
Some progress. Going slow and checking each system one at a time.

For the Chinese wood block puzzle builders this instrument is for you !
Just grab these three. Sneak the flat springs into place. Then…..
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Drop all three between the pillars squarely simultaneously. Quickly place the hinge pins and you’re good.
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Offically I don’t care for this pellet goo. Can’t say here what I really think so I’ll just leave it at that. I’m dealing with best I can:confused:

Setting pads and checking for contact. Using paper from shoebox.002/0,005mm. Cut grain long so it doesn’t constantly tear. For the pictures I used this wide strip. Actual strips used were 3 x 25 mm.
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On flute and clarinet pads. Leak lights do no good. The covering is translucent. Hard to capture a picture in the dark. These keys are actually sprung closed !
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Getting closer the the finish line!
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My repair mentor taught me how to make a feeler gauge using a match stick and super glue. The ones shown in the photo use a .001" plastic material from JL Smith. A leader from an old cassette tape works just as well. The orange color makes it easier to find on a bench. Being lightweight, provides a more sensitive feel and gives better control.

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If it's any consolation, I am of the opinion that Apple made changes to predictive text and auto-correct a few months ago since over last few months I have had endless issues with what is posted bearing little resemblance to what I've typed and I then have to go through and correct it. I suspect some "AI" has ben added to try to guess at what you're typing and that may be way out of alignment with what you typed.
You could always turn it off or is that a Luddite solution.
 
My repair mentor taught me how to make a feeler gauge using a match stick and super glue. The ones shown in the photo use a .001" plastic material from JL Smith. A leader from an old cassette tape works just as well. The orange color makes it easier to find on a bench. Being lightweight, provides a more sensitive feel and gives better control.

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Above my workbench sits my old portable AM/FM/cassette player. Couldn’t bring myself to kill a perfectly good 44 year old Doobie Brothers tape😉
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Well it’s complete and I’m working on some refinements. Interesting learning curve with the glue pellets. I ended up reinstalling several pads. The adhesive actually has a low melting point. depending on the thickness of the glue layer the expansion and contraction varies greatly. That’s where I had the problems.

Counting to 15 with my hot air torch set at 120° F the glue would melt off a pin prick
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The pad set is in and the technique turned out somewhat user-friendly.
i’m not sure that I would use this Pellet material again. If I did it would go something like this.
melt full pellet into cup, toss the pad in. Leave floating fuzz high.
Install key. Heat cup and tap a few quick times into position and let cool.

One of the things I did to myself by over working. Was plugging the pin pricks around the pad letting the air out. These little bladders seal well. If you don’t prick at least a couple times around the outer edge they balloon up and are ruined. Experimenting with new material can have setbacks. This clarinet is for myself. Would I let it go out the shop like this. NOT A Chance in >:)
Done correctly the pad should be smooth and have no impression. The clear adhesive is nice but it also makes clean up a PIA.
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This pad partially collapsed from ballooning. Looks like I may have had the size wrong also.
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The pad seals air like it should. I wouldn’t be surprised if it doesn’t last very long. Ugh these close-up pictures are nasty with all the oozing glue.
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Mechanically solid rebuild. The regulation dropped in just fine. Tuning? I still need to play it:w00t:. It’s Sunday and I don’t have any cork for the neck joint:doh:.
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Well it makes noise! Been to long since I played on clarinet. Going to take a few days getting playing sorted.
Still looking for the original foil label that goes inside top. I know what I put it in. Just can’t find where I put that:confused:
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Yeah the fit is close on the ends.
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Funny thing about this clarinet. I purchased it around Fall of 2018. The seller located on East Coast United States. About a year later I stumbled upon a flute on the West Coast. Both made by H. Bettoney and 11 serial numbers apart ! Made on the same day :confused2:
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Before anyone asks. Yes I reworked the flute complete with all new pads. Relined the case interior too.
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Looks a nice job. I have a very similar clarinet I did up. The name on mine is American Victory.
Mine had a dent that knocked a tonehole off and a missing lever key. Took more work than it was worth to get it playing, but it's quite nice now. I don't think these are intermediate level. Most are off th esame ilk. The best ones are supposed to be the double walled ones which are meant to hold their tuning better.

I would say the pads look undersized. If they are shouldered pads you tend to need to add 0.5mm or more to allow for the shoulder.
Some of the plastic glues can be cleaned up with white spirit/ naptha.
 
Looks a nice job. I have a very similar clarinet I did up. The name on mine is American Victory.
Mine had a dent that knocked a tonehole off and a missing lever key. Took more work than it was worth to get it playing, but it's quite nice now. I don't think these are intermediate level. Most are off th esame ilk. The best ones are supposed to be the double walled ones which are meant to hold their tuning better.

I would say the pads look undersized. If they are shouldered pads you tend to need to add 0.5mm or more to allow for the shoulder.
Some of the plastic glues can be cleaned up with white spirit/ naptha.
Hello Steve.
Thanks for the compliment and the information.
Maybe the term intermediate wasn’t the best choice. The Cadet was actually deemed a better grade of student instrument. The Three Star being the lowest level least expensive. I may have a Three Star around here somewhere it would be interesting to compare.
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I did do a chemical test on the adhesive. It’s resistant to just about anything. I even let pellet soak in some naphtha for an hour. Zip,Nata,nothing !
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I have done clarinets in the past. Just not a metal one. Yes the pads are shouldered and should go over the rim of the cup proper.
The pad thicknesses and diameters we’re quite the mess on this one. I made extensive notes and observations in first review. Something I can’t emphasize enough for a first time DIY person.

First off the pillars are mounted completely different than what you would experience on a wood or plastic body. You’re messing with fire relocating a post on metal. Although on metal you can knock a post over to correct the fulcrum. But then again correct the angle could upset the centering. Catch 22.
In the post above I noted the pad may have been too small. Earlier in the thread I mentioned the supplier matched the pads. This was reviewed in depth with the vendor. Supported with pictures. Technically it would have been nice to have a full pads set inventory. Different diameters and different thicknesses. It was a judgment call. Keep them all the same thickness as previously used.

I knew I was going to have issues before I even started. I could tell this when I removed the pads while doing initial and measurements. Not all were flat in the cup. Although I took on the assumption that it was working previously as it was set up. That I should be able to duplicate. Technically correct, no. This being for myself I wasn’t going to make myself looney.

The pad I noted above being too small is position one. Position three is the same diameter. They are operating on two different arcs. During the cleaning process I noticed the key for position three had been repaired. Initially overlooked due to the dirt.
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Review picture
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I came close.
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The key assembly for position 3 had been repaired long ago. It’s difficult to get these things back in the right spot and not spoil everything.
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Other positions had thickness and diameter issues as well. These were mass produced instruments. Well within tolerance but far from perfect.
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