Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

Life around the barn.
Tales from a pig that likes to stick his nose into everything.

Paint that S. How difficult could it be ?
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1) Search the net.
2) Find the color.
3) Order color.
4) Study task on University of YouTube, aka; For destruction by DYI presented by pro tech.
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Do the cleaning & prep.
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Paint and cleanup / detail the edges with hard cotton swabs. Sounds easy……:confused:
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Yeah tha guy Matt makes it look easy.
Anyone remember your first experience cooking bacon crispy while still in the frying pan !
 
Thanks, that's a story I've never heard before.
I’ve known about this several years. This was heavily debated and qualified amongst a group of fine collectors.
Best I know officially, this is first public release of the information. The lowest serial number is unknown. Some think 78k is possible.

Look at the brochure picture features. One statement letter dated September 28, 1927. The noted improvements and the picture is not a Typewriter. My gold plated HC SN# 831xx on left. It has all the listed features.
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I recently lost 11,000+ sax documents in a iCloud crash. I had notes on most all models. Pictures without notes:doh:
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The end of crook was a challenge. Martins have large pipe and very thin cork. Like 0,025mm / .020 thick.
The last bit is flared. This was smashed and had split.
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I added and shaped a 1mm ring that was also handmade. The part is indexed for picture at appropriate same location.
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'
Here from side the ring is visible.
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The metal ring is a little off center but plenty strong for a continuation of long life use.
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I'm new here, and have read this thread with interest. I have other mechanical interests (motorbikes, museum work on vintage steam / gas / diesel engines etc), and I have a reasonably-equipped workshop (little lathe and miller, oxy-propane gear etc) - but I've never got very far working on instruments. Would you (OP) be open to making the odd contribution to a newbie DIY thread? I know a lot of people would shy off that with a 'don't do that, you'll wreck it' feeling, which I understand - but, for instance, how do you get enough heat into a body tube to solder a pillar back on (and using...electrical solder (v.soft), plumber's solder (less soft), lead-free modern stuff (less-soft again) or ...? ) without neighbouring pillars falling off, solder running everywhere, etc etc? That's the kind of thing I'd like to experiment with. cheers, Mark
 
I'm new here, and have read this thread with interest. I have other mechanical interests (motorbikes, museum work on vintage steam / gas / diesel engines etc), and I have a reasonably-equipped workshop (little lathe and miller, oxy-propane gear etc) - but I've never got very far working on instruments. Would you (OP) be open to making the odd contribution to a newbie DIY thread? I know a lot of people would shy off that with a 'don't do that, you'll wreck it' feeling, which I understand - but, for instance, how do you get enough heat into a body tube to solder a pillar back on (and using...electrical solder (v.soft), plumber's solder (less soft), lead-free modern stuff (less-soft again) or ...? ) without neighbouring pillars falling off, solder running everywhere, etc etc? That's the kind of thing I'd like to experiment with. cheers, Mark
I'm sure a few experienced members would be happy to contribute to such a thread. Please do start one 😃

Jx
 
Happy end of Monday.
There’s no secrets to the way I polish a silver body. Disassembled, degrease, wash in tepid water with dawn dish soap, rinse then dry.
Polish in two or three sections depending on tarnish level and hot / cold weather. Apply liberally and continuously work in circular motion until darkened. Light on the pressure. Let the product work, don’t scrub ! I use soft natural hair brushes and soft toothbrushes. I don’t place my fingers where they don’t belong. No stuck pigs ! Most quality polish products are just fine.
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I prefer to rinse the product off. Once again with a light circular motion and soft brush.
Then blow dry with compressed air or hairdryer on high & cool.
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Lastly I pass a pipe cleaner through all the pillars and coat the springs with WD-40.
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Add some chicken soup if you’re a bit under the weather.
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Do the final buff within a few hours.
Once again, NO STUCK PIGGIES !
Wrap a terry cloth over your toothbrush. Work the cloth and press/move the toothbrush. Thin cotton strips to detail tight areas. Use tweezers to sneak the strips under springs.
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If you’ve never done this before. Plan on doing the work in six or seven small sections. 10-12 hours on body alone.

Pad party is next !
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I have a silver (well, it was once) True Tone alto which would respond well to that treatment, if I could be sure I could get all the bits back in the right places 🙂 I'm down with my elderly Dad for a few days so not much time for the internet, but thanks for your encouragement to post a DIY-newbie thread - I'll certainly do it when I get back. cheers, Mark
 
I have a silver (well, it was once) True Tone alto which would respond well to that treatment, if I could be sure I could get all the bits back in the right places 🙂 I'm down with my elderly Dad for a few days so not much time for the internet, but thanks for your encouragement to post a DIY-newbie thread - I'll certainly do it when I get back. cheers, Mark
A good primer to PDF download for late night reading.
Holton C Melody Restoration
Tech/maintenance - Holton C Melody Restoration

Enjoy quality time with your Dad.
Pigs
 
A good primer to PDF download for late night reading.
Holton C Melody Restoration
Tech/maintenance - Holton C Melody Restoration

Enjoy quality time with your Dad.
Pigs
Goodness - if I had drilled out a bolt that small, that straight and central, and had not messed up the female thread it mated with, I'd be telling people about it on the internet too! 🙂 (I stole an hour, Dad is doing his pensioners lunch thing!)
 

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