This makes me think that it's really only worth doing on an old horn or a more significant dent than this one if new. In this case, seeing as the rest of the horn is pristine, even the teeniest "witness mark" is going to stand out.
Pete, in my humble experience, I would have to agree with you.
I used the rounded portion of a large box end wrench, whose box end was small enough to navigate through the lower E pad hole, to carefully "burnish" out the dent from the inside, located on the back side of my Venus tenor. I was able to remove the dent but in tool movement there was some crazing of the clear lacquer finish around around the dent removal area.
SOAPBOX: For one, I am a "shade tree" repairer and not a seasoned pro.
But, my observations indicate that unless one is willing to expend additional money to not only have the dent removed but a touch up of the finish, the final result with dent removed even with touch up, may be difficult to achieve a perfect factory like finish without more significant work.
In doing autobody repair and painting (I have repainted a half dozen cars and 2 motorcycles), end up having to repaint a whole panel to get a "perfect" match.
A decade ago, I bumped out a dent in a front metal fender of a friend's Yamaha V-Star 1300 tourer. He had placed a tool bag in front of the front fork, but it got wedged between the fork tree and fender below whilst hitting a road pothole, denting it. I successfully removed the dent but had to repaint the entire fender for a "perfect" match. When done, one could not tell it had ever been dented.
This is why I mentioned that for such minor dents, it is sometimes better to just live with it, and when time to do some major work like replace all pads, springs and bumpers, then do the dent repairs where the tech has a clear shot with all keywork already removed.
Just consider it a wounded but unflinched veteran of saxophone warfare.
