Saxophones conn 1933 transitional tenor sax

I think you have to accept that there is no one transitional that you judge others by and generalise about stuff like ergos. It was a transitional period.

A lot has been written but I’ve never found anything conclusive such as what happened and when to the body tube dimensions between NWII and 10m Naked Lady.

I have no doubt the proper 10ms had better ergos and better tuning than the Chu. I wouldn’t just go for a tranny without accepting you cannot generalise. So it has to be try before you buy or it’s a total shot in the dark. My advice is that unless you are comfortable evaluating, just go for it a 10M.
 
Unlike modern horns, those old horns give my fingers room to move. You'll save some money going for an earlier Chu tenor, and even more if you go for an even earlier one. The transitionals are valued solely on their collector value; not because they're necessarily better players. Throughout that vintage Conn tenor run... they all barked just as you'd expect a Conn to do.
 
When I bought my Zephyr Special I complained about how difficult the pinky table was and the shop tech said to me that if I liked the horn I should just get used to its foibles, learn how to deal with them and not mess with the horn. He was right and I did and they aren't difficult any more.
 
For sentimental reasons I would like one of these..Ive played a later 1946 10m and loved the sax. Ive heard he ergos are difficult but can be con verted. What can be done and is it an expensive procedure? Discuss...lol
Rare bird to nail a SN# to exactly 1933. From the last Chu to honest first 10m these constantly changed.
What’s your anticipated budget ? Send me a DM if you want.
 
For sentimental reasons I would like one of these..Ive played a later 1946 10m and loved the sax. Ive heard he ergos are difficult but can be con verted. What can be done and is it an expensive procedure? Discuss...lol
There are some specialist who do conversions on saxophones keys to make it comparable to modern saxophones. Expensive and they have to be extremely accurate.
One of the things they don't do is changing the bell keys from left to right. With the bell keys on the left it makes no sense to change from in line to of line. There is no good explanation why of line has better ergonomics. The only sensible reason seems to be to increase finger room for right hand bell keys saxophones.

The C#-G#, B,Bb links in the left hand pinkie, when present can be uncomfortable. There is an old alternative that never made it: No links and a large roller on the G# key.
 
I don't find the Ergonomics on my conns too bad, the pinky table feels a bit clunky playing certain passages, but after playing the Buescher Bari it ain't too bad.

IMHO - Go play some, there's a number of 10m's kicking around, West Yorkshire Woodwind have several, as does Headwind.

I wanted a Silver & gold wash bell, tried two down at headwind and picked the one that felt better under my fingers.
 
My ergo problem is not not associated with to the design of the finger/key touches. Stiff fingers comes with age. I played saxes that were close to each other when it comes to ergos. Bell keys to left, right- and left hand clusters in the same style, palm keys ..... I played "The Martin" alto, tenor and baritone. Today I play more baritone than tenor so I think I will "retire" my Martin Handcraft 1938 tenor. It's easier for me to play "The Martin Tenor" instead of the Handcraft.

The ergo problem is to find a good playing position on my baritone with bell keys to the left. I play standing and try to hold out the sax from my body. Sometimes the pocket on my cargo pants comes in contact with bell keys on the bari ..... .
 
Conn 10m ergos are magical. I struggle with modern selmerish ergos. 10m is the real deal.

Also prewar Conn's are not that different. I have a 58.one and played a great prewar sample. Side by side. Ws the prewar better? Yes a tiny bit. Is the 58 less 10m than any other out there. Absolutely not.
The late Conn Artist saxes are good. I have own played Conn Artist from the 30's, 40's and 50's. The late 6M anad 10M had no microtuner, rolled toneholes but underslung octave key, small set screws .... still good "6M and 10M" saxes for less money compared to Conn Artist from the 30's. My last Conns were made in 1955 (10M) and 1957 (6M).
 
Cool idea..not so good at the music from then tbf..why would it be a grand more?
We (try to) do Albert King's version, from 1967, of "The Very Thought of You" (Ray Nobles, 1934). We play it in concert Ab (tenor in Bb). A Conn tenor is more or less perfect for this song. The key of Bb and the tenor sax .... . I have the rhythm page and 3 horn arr (trumpet, tenor and baritone) .... .

View: https://youtu.be/wwXvAn4maLA?si=YGzpistGd0rvmr6B
 
The late Conn Artist saxes are good. I have own played Conn Artist from the 30's, 40's and 50's. The late 6M anad 10M had no microtuner, rolled toneholes but underslung octave key, small set screws .... still good "6M and 10M" saxes for less money compared to Conn Artist from the 30's. My last Conns were made in 1955 (10M) and 1957 (6M).
Just for clarification for those who don’t know. The tenors never had a micro tuner. Conn only used a micro tuner on altos & C melodies.
And yes, the Artist 6 & 10m were well made great players until mid 1960s / end.
I think @LostCircuits has a ‘66 ?
 
why would it be a grand more?
Conn transitional tenors are ones that came out between the Chu run into the 10M run. Before the 10M was set in design, the transitional series horns can have Chu characteristics mixed in with 10M features. Many of these distinctions have nothing to do with how the horns play, but how they look. Like do they have 10M naked lady engraving, Chu engraving or something in between? Other factors can be whether or not the bell keys are split or on the same side? Is side E more ergonomic? Things like that can drive up value depending upon what a collector is missing and/or seeking. Plus, they're generally regarded as great players. So you have a valued horn by both players and collectors... which drives up the price accordingly depending upon condition and features.

You've picked a rare bird to find at a decent price.
 

Similar threads... or are they? Maybe not but they could be worth reading anyway 😀

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