Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

Life around the barn.

Tales from a pig that likes to stick his nose into everything.

Paint that S. How difficult could it be ?

1) Search the net.
2) Find the color.
3) Order color.
4) Study task on University of YouTube, aka; For destruction by DYI presented by pro tech.

Do the cleaning & prep.

Paint and cleanup / detail the edges with hard cotton swabs. Sounds easy……

Yeah tha guy Matt makes it look easy.
Anyone remember your first experience cooking bacon crispy while still in the frying pan !

 

[PigSquealer]

The individual low B and Bb guards will look hipper, more like an original Selmer BA. Where did the new low B and Bb guards come from?

The new guards were customer furnished. I’ll ask for the source.
First I reviewed the potential of successful fit & mounting. Big mess to get sorted. The reason to remove everything and start fresh.

This is what I was given to work from.

I’ll most likely make all new mounts. Either fabricated from sheet stock or machined. I’m still waiting for the neck & bumpers to arrive.

Mounts like a Couesnon could be made without the diamond base.

Mounts like an JK ST can also be made.

 

[PigSquealer]

He made his decision! "I'm gonna stay THERE!"

I think it was the espresso machine that he really wanted to stay for.

 

[thomsax]

The guards & mounts the unit arrived here with I don’t know what the origin is.
View attachment 37235
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The receiver is new from JK (Buffet Crampon) and from the SX90 R model. The ID and overall length is almost identical.
View attachment 37240
There’s an .043 difference in height where the top pillar rests. Adjustment needs will be addressed upon installation.
View attachment 37241

The receiver change is to accommodate the use of different necks.

The low Bb and B keyguards are something in the style as "The New King" (Keilwerth). My "The New King" (# 60XXX, c1967) is a Keilwerth with wide bow.

 

[ghostler]

Looks like you have your work cut out for you but the usual non-routine challenges for someone of your calibre, @PigSquealer . Looking forward to your finished results.

 

[turf3]

OK PS, I've got a question for you. You seem to be able to work out tricks for difficult situations. THAT OTHER forum didn't turn up anything.

I've got a needle spring, in the lower stack, that is too weak. I remember that when I put this horn back together, I thought "wow, I sure am having to put a lot of curve on this thing". Comparing it to the other springs on the stack, it's a far smaller diameter spring. Now the question is, how can I enlarge the hole in the post?

Obviously I can unsolder the post, drill the hole larger, and reinstall the post. But I'd rather not do that if I don't have to. The post in question has posts to the left and right. The space between the posts is just about enough to be able to get the springs in - so let's say 1~1.25". No way I could fish, say, a teeny twist drill in a pin vise, in there and line it up. I saw those Ferree's "broaches" for spring holes, but again, way too long.

The best I could come up with so far would be either: 1) break off a teeny twist drill in the fluted part, so I could get it in between the posts, and grab it with some needle nose pliers and work it back and forth to crudely drill out the hole, or 2) take a short piece of sacrificial spring and grind a flat on it so it can act as a reamer, and grab IT with some needle nose pliers and ream out the hole to size.

Someone did kindly point out that the hole might actually be bigger than the current spring and I might be able to just go up a size or two in spring diameter and it'd fit through the hole as is - which of course would be first prize, but I'm not going to count on it.

I haven't torn into this thing in detail yet, but I was hoping that someone could say "oh yeah, what I do when I'm faced with needing to make a spring hole bigger and there are posts on either side, is THIS" and it would be something I haven't already thought of. (I mean other than of course "Well, bucky, you're screwed, gotta unsolder the post and get it up on the bench where you can work on it standing on your hind legs".

This is the RH middle finger key, which operates the fork Eb on the back, so I also thought "well, just spring that little devil closed and glue the finger touch to the pad cup and it won't matter" but closing the fork Eb makes the F natural just HORRIBLY flat and stuffy. So that's not an option.