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Tech/maintenance Lacquer polish

Dr G

Senior Member
Messages
2,438
Location
Northern California
I have been using Meguiars Cleaner/Wax for what seems like decades. I first learned of it from guitar builders that used it for final touches on boutique guitars with nitro finishes. I have not yet tried the next-gen ceramic-based automotive products. What do you use on your concours cars and fine guitars? @PigSquealer @Phil
 
The actor? You get him to polish your saxophone? Kudos to you mate.
Question was cars and guitars, but, yes it dissolves regular grime on a saxophone and buffs up the lacquer. The spray gets in all the nooks and crannies. Finish with a big soft brush, cotton buds and a microfiber detailing cloth.

Mr Sheen works great on a car after a wash and tcut. After that the muck just slides off. Good on the motorcycle too. Stops the bugs sticking. When they used to do the vanilla scented spray the bike smelled like custard on start up.
 
I personally do not use any cleaner/waxes on my horns that have any kind of abrasives. IIRC Meguair's Cleaner wax has clay as an abrasive. YMMV.

I love Meguairs D115 for my horns. It is formulated to be a waterless wash. Floats contaminants off the surface. Very gentle - it's literally made not to scratch while cleaning.


For my cars - I try everything.

Pretty fussy about an an annual clay barring, light random orbit machine polishing with a light compound like M205


I tried finishing with the M27. Was ok. Didn't last nearly as long as suggested.

The consumer grade ceramic liquid wax is pretty good, actually. Wouldn't use it on my horns though.



If you don't want to work that hard - an oldie but goodie is Klasse All In One. Really good stuff. Outstanding around the house. Shower stall glass, countertops and of course cars. Don't use it on your horn. Very mild abrasives.



24 years old this year.

Currently using Adams Graphene treatment on car windows. Doesn’t live up to the longevity claims but works well when still in effect.

4C5E1619-DB06-477E-A0FA-B134E51F34AB_1_201_a-2.webp


Keilwerth Shadow - quick once over with D115.

IMG_9843.webp
 
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What do you use on your concours cars and fine guitars? @PigSquealer
I don’t own but two guitars. They don’t see much daylight.
On cars of all colors, different paint types and age range from new to 40+ years. The last few years I’ve exclusively used Mother’s. The Ceramic product(s) have greatly improved. Ease of use exceeds all others tested.
Recently this year some graphite products with good results. No fogging or surface rainbow iridescent results.
This below I’m using on our new black Subaru. When the cover comes off next time I’ll take a pic.
1791832503476.webp


Last weekend I won a raffle at car show. Looks like I have some new products to test.
IMG_6110.webp


The products on left by Spyt Shyne have great feedback from local detailing shops. The metal polish is approved for silver plating. Time to test !
 
@lig I’ve used Meguair's for over 40 years. The full product line. Mother’s got my attention with the waterless wash.
Black paint is brutally unforgiving. Had more than one failure. “The Wax Shop” was the worst. I could go on about all the samples tried over the years. Like crevasses filled with carnauba concrete😤
Mothers is worthy.
 
@lig I’ve used Meguair's for over 40 years. The full product line. Mother’s got my attention with the waterless wash.
Black paint is brutally unforgiving. Had more than one failure. “The Wax Shop” was the worst. I could go on about all the samples tried over the years. Like crevasses filled with carnauba concrete😤
Mothers is worthy.

Agreed. I particularly like Mothers “Back To Black” for trim pieces. Still on Meguiars for most chemicals.

This is my 2nd (and probably last) 😀 black car. Porsche water based paint is soft. Can swirl just by having someone look at it. For some reason Audi does a better job.

Doubtful I’ll ever get another black car. Getting too old for the job of maintaining it to the standard it deserves. 21 years old now.

Edit: crap. Pic won't post. File too large. Had a fun shot with sunstars from a really narrow aperture that wouldn't post.

IMG_1886.webp
 
How does Renaissance Wax work for lacquered horns?
Cruise ship musicians, told me they had the horn stripped down, and paste waxed the body.
Keeping the finish clean is all I do on the sax, even when I had a silver plated horn.
Silver flutes, swab and alcohol wipe, inside and outside.
Q-tips for keywork.

"Like crevasses filled with carnauba concrete"
Which reminds me of RenWax as a finish on some handles of laminated wood veneers, if any minute space is present.
Strip and Tung Oil to the rescue, although the oil darkens dyed colored veneers a bit.
 
How does Renaissance Wax work for lacquered horns?
I haven’t used the product personally. I’ve never heard any complaints or issues on ease of use. @JayeNM has more experience with the product than anyone I know of.
This is a well known product for conservation of museum artifacts. Actually developed in 1950’s by The British Museum in Bloomsbury area of London.

I’m considering using this on the current Martin Imperial project.

Cruise ship musicians, told me they had the horn stripped down, and paste waxed the body.
I agree, this after reading the above information appears to be an excellent choice for harsh element exposure.
Maybe @Dr G can offer some scientific observations of the product make up chemistry.


"Like crevasses filled with carnauba concrete"
Which reminds me of RenWax as a finish on some handles of laminated wood veneers, if any minute space is present.
Strip and Tung Oil to the rescue, although the oil darkens dyed colored veneers a bit.
Interesting, I would have thought Minwax as product of choice. Watco & Minwax products are my go-to choice. Yeah, oils will darken most.
 
How does Renaissance Wax work for lacquered horns?
Cruise ship musicians, told me they had the horn stripped down, and paste waxed the body.
Keeping the finish clean is all I do on the sax, even when I had a silver plated horn.
Silver flutes, swab and alcohol wipe, inside and outside.
Q-tips for keywork.

"Like crevasses filled with carnauba concrete"
Which reminds me of RenWax as a finish on some handles of laminated wood veneers, if any minute space is present.
Strip and Tung Oil to the rescue, although the oil darkens dyed colored veneers a bit.
I’ve used renaissance wax for several purposes including saxes since it was recommended to me by someone who worked for the National Trust who said it was what that organisation used.
 
Nice looking Volkswagen 🤣. Did you get the matching belt buckle ?
I did get a nice keychain with the car. 😀

I refuse to wear the branded clothing as they totally scream douchebag but do admit to have a pair of PD sunglasses.

Crazy that Ferdinand's basic rear engine design that is really antithetical to ideal vehicle dynamics has endured.

They've really gotten out of hand with regard to pricing and following Ferrari to the velvet rope marketing model.

Promised the wife that I would sell the S2000 once getting the 911 but the first track day with the P-car was rather disappointing.

Way more power - 50% more horsepower, double the torque and only 400lbs heavier meant the car is faster in a straight line.

Not nearly as fun/tossable as the S2000 through the twisty bits.
 
I haven’t used the product personally. I’ve never heard any complaints or issues on ease of use. @JayeNM has more experience with the product than anyone I know of.
This is a well known product for conservation of museum artifacts. Actually developed in 1950’s by The British Museum in Bloomsbury area of London.

I’m considering using this on the current Martin Imperial project.


I agree, this after reading the above information appears to be an excellent choice for harsh element exposure.
Maybe @Dr G can offer some scientific observations of the product make up chemistry.
Regarding the cruise ship (or living near the ocean): The reason that lacquer fails in a marine environment is that lacquer is permeable - after the salt ions penetrate the lacquer, they attack the brass surface and cause corrosion. If I wanted to play a lacquered horn, I'd seal it with Meguiars rather than preemptively stripping it. When the lacquer wears away, I'd seal it some more to slow the corrosion reaction. Life is all about thermodynamics (Will it happen?) and kinetics (How fast will it happen?). If you can adequately seal the surface against moist salt air, you can slow the kinetics.

My preference is for thick silver plate - it forms a metallic atomic bond with the brass and is relatively impervious to corrosion by salt water attack. FWIW, the standard for electrical switch gear in ships is silver-plated contacts (it wears better than gold plate and its native oxide remains conductive).
 
I did get a nice keychain with the car. 😀

I refuse to wear the branded clothing as they totally scream douchebag but do admit to have a pair of PD sunglasses.

Crazy that Ferdinand's basic rear engine design that is really antithetical to ideal vehicle dynamics has endured.

They've really gotten out of hand with regard to pricing and following Ferrari to the velvet rope marketing model.

Promised the wife that I would sell the S2000 once getting the 911 but the first track day with the P-car was rather disappointing.

Way more power - 50% more horsepower, double the torque and only 400lbs heavier meant the car is faster in a straight line.

Not nearly as fun/tossable as the S2000 through the twisty bits.
The Honda S2000 is an impressive machine.
The 911 needs factory wax to go faster and handle better. Only $ 3.53/oz. Labor not included.
 
The Honda S2000 is an impressive machine.
The 911 needs factory wax to go faster and handle better. Only $ 3.53/oz. Labor not included.

The difference in how these cars behave on track is pronounced. The 911 is clearly faster in a straight line but it’s not as willing to play. More of an “in slow, out fast” proposition. It’ll understeer until you provoke it into oversteer

The S2000 is way better balanced. Much easier to keep right on the edge of adhesion and carry speed through corners.

Kind of like a frisky puppy. Happy to do your bidding. Tail out? Ok! Tight and fast lines? 💯. Going in way too to a corner fast? As long as you don’t do anything stupid like suddenly lifting off the throttle it’ll be just fine. Just a great little machine. Best clutch and gearbox ever.

@turf3 - it even shares a Torsen differential with the Miata.

Miata is my car guy litmus test vehicle. Those that dismiss it offhand or worse are ignorant imo.

The really hardcore guys build a Miata dedicated track toy.

Arguably the Miata is a better daily driver than the S2000 since the S2000 has the low end torque of about 3 angry hamsters. Then again - how good would a Miata be with that magical 6,000-9,000 rpm F20C top end?

One of my best car buds is a Boeing engineer. Two post lift and massive garage.

His Miata’s license plate: ANSWR 🙂
 

Similar threads... or are they? Maybe not but they could be worth reading anyway 😀

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