Saxophones conn 1933 transitional tenor sax

Conn 10m ergos are magical. I struggle with modern selmerish ergos. 10m is the real deal.

Also prewar Conn's are not that different. I have a 58.one and played a great prewar sample. Side by side. Ws the prewar better? Yes a tiny bit. Is the 58 less 10m than any other out there. Absolutely not.
I feel the same way about the 'Crats. I can play modern horns but the Crat is where my fingers are home.
 
Found a martin handcraft within budget. 1933. Is this a good model..
IMHO there is no bad Martin from any year. They all play well. The difference is in the keys and related feel.
1933 tenor, what model ? 1931ish to 1935 is kind of a funky zone of models. I don’t remember if a Troubadour tenor has just the two RH side keys like the alto.
Your budget will cover a Martin silver plated and with new or close to pads. In lacquer with new pads.
Add £300 for gold plated.
 
Looks like it’s had some TLC. All new springs ? The keywork on this is solid nickel, tough as nails. They didn’t do nickel plating best I know of. SN#107xxx is solid 1933 and not exactly sure what model this is ?? Overall this looks played and well loved. As a Martin purest, I’m not fond of domed boosters. Well installed pads with rivets (as are OE) play the true Martin sound.
Maybe @saxismyaxe can add more constructive comments.
IMHO it’s listed at full premium. The Guard Wheelie, Meh 🫤.

What happened to the Conn Transitional deal ?
 
Looks like it’s had some TLC. All new springs ? The keywork on this is solid nickel, tough as nails. They didn’t do nickel plating best I know of. SN#107xxx is solid 1933 and not exactly sure what model this is ?? Overall this looks played and well loved. As a Martin purest, I’m not fond of domed boosters. Well installed pads with rivets (as are OE) play the true Martin sound.
Maybe @saxismyaxe can add more constructive comments.
IMHO it’s listed at full premium. The Guard Wheelie, Meh 🫤.

What happened to the Conn Transitional deal ?
I can call to find out ive not heard from them. I havent pushed it as issues at the mo with my job so I am unsure if the timmings right to buy. Different if my alto sells I dont play, but theres not much movement on it.
 
@eb424 what are playing today? You played a YTS ...... ? I understand if you want to own a sax made in 1933. I've been looking and trying more modern saxes so I can "phase out" my old saxes. I love my Martin saxes but sooner or later I have to deal with some repair .... . The problem is to find a better low Bb baritone compared to my Martin bari. Lots of money for a new low Bb baritone. I tried a very good Keilwerth Shadow tenor for 50 000 s e k. And a mint YTS 280 S was 12 000 s e k. The best was a YTS 62 for 19 000 s e k. Maybe new and better pads installed on my 1968 NewKing ...... . The "Diamond" tenor Dörfler und Jörka stencil) is not bad not bad. Right now I don't know what best for me? To fix and play an old sax or ....? On the other side, I can buy some r/t flights Boston-Copenhagen for the cost of a Keilwerth and do some Rock & Roll Saxophone workshops with my friend. And then we can have more RockSax honkers to come for some unrestrained Rock & Roll Saxophone.

As a 70 years old hobby player I try to be more a "sax player instead" of a "sax owner". Just before Chrismas there was a Martin Handcraft Imperial 1933-1934 for sale here in Scania. Good saxes but ..... you must probably do a mouthpiece journey and deal with how to get the Imperial louder. IMO no Rock & Roll Sax horn.
 
@eb424 what are playing today? You played a YTS ...... ? I understand if you want to own a sax made in 1933. I've been looking and trying more modern saxes so I can "phase out" my old saxes. I love my Martin saxes but sooner or later I have to deal with some repair .... . The problem is to find a better low Bb baritone compared to my Martin bari. Lots of money for a new low Bb baritone. I tried a very good Keilwerth Shadow tenor for 50 000 s e k. And a mint YTS 280 S was 12 000 s e k. The best was a YTS 62 for 19 000 s e k. Maybe new and better pads installed on my 1968 NewKing ...... . The "Diamond" tenor Dörfler und Jörka stencil) is not bad not bad. Right now I don't know what best for me? To fix and play an old sax or ....? On the other side, I can buy some r/t flights Boston-Copenhagen for the cost of a Keilwerth and do some Rock & Roll Saxophone workshops with my friend. And then we can have more RockSax honkers to come for some unrestrained Rock & Roll Saxophone.

As a 70 years old hobby player I try to be more a "sax player instead" of a "sax owner". Just before Chrismas there was a Martin Handcraft Imperial 1933-1934 for sale here in Scania. Good saxes but ..... you must probably do a mouthpiece journey and deal with how to get the Imperial louder. IMO no Rock & Roll Sax horn.
Hi @thomsax currently play a YTS custom z. It's good for everything I really dont need another tenor. My mum was born in 33 so just wanted something for slower ballads sentimental moments. I sold the YTS 25 and have the YAS 32 completely overhauled up for £850 with a G1 neck and mouthpiece. Excellent condition. When this sells I would have a budget of £1700, only have 2 tenors and 3 mouthpieces 2 Links 1 NY, 1 10m fan celebration, oh and 2 cheap kanees that are great but not quite there, like me huh....LoL..
 
The Martin Handcraft split bell keys is not a Martin Handcraft Imperial. You posted apicture of an Imperial for some weeks ago.

1766919679854.webp
 
@thomsax
Well,
1931ish to 1935 is kind of a funky zone of models. I don’t remember if a Troubadour tenor has just the two RH side keys like the alto.
It’s not a Troubadour. 1932 - 1934, #102xxx - 109xxx
Although the listing is split bell.
The Troubadour tenor has two RH palm / side keys.
Fingernail side F# with key cup / socket on back.

It DOES have a Troubadour like LH pinky Bb touch !

The Imperial 1933 - 1936, #106xxx - 116xxx
This has spoon F#.
3 RH palms.
LH bell keys.

SN is too low for Comm 1. Didn’t the solid nickel keywork start with Imperial ?
The engraving looks like Imperial, Standard and Standard Special.

1766950819710.webp
 
@thomsax
Well,

It’s not a Troubadour. 1932 - 1934, #102xxx - 109xxx
Although the listing is split bell.
The Troubadour tenor has two RH palm / side keys.
Fingernail side F# with key cup / socket on back.

It DOES have a Troubadour like LH pinky Bb touch !

The Imperial 1933 - 1936, #106xxx - 116xxx
This has spoon F#.
3 RH palms.
LH bell keys.

SN is too low for Comm 1. Didn’t the solid nickel keywork start with Imperial ?
The engraving looks like Imperial, Standard and Standard Special.

View attachment 32121
The dawkes tenor have no eb-vent/ trill key. Martin dropped the Eb vent key à la Imperial on the Martin Special model. The brace on the neck looks more as as a Conn NW 1 or II. Slighty curved .... .The colour of the neck is also a little bit differnt compared to the body. I don't remember when Martin started to stamped the serial number on thier necks? The tone holes are not Committee toneholes.

The Imperial alto I owned had laquered brass keys. The solid nickel silver keys on my HC 1938 tenor are silver plated as well.

It doesn't matter as long as the sax is playing well. But it is sold as a Martin Handcraft.
 
The dawkes tenor have no eb-vent/ trill key. Martin dropped the Eb vent key à la Imperial on the Martin Special model. The brace on the neck looks more as as a Conn NW 1 or II. Slighty curved .... .The colour of the neck is also a little bit differnt compared to the body. I don't remember when Martin started to stamped the serial number on thier necks? The tone holes are not Committee toneholes.

The Imperial alto I owned had laquered brass keys. The solid nickel silver keys on my HC 1938 tenor are silver plated as well.

It doesn't matter as long as the sax is playing well. But it is sold as a Martin Handcraft.
is it worth a visit i.e. a potentially good sax as good as the Conn tranny?
 
is it worth a visit i.e. a potentially good sax as good as the Conn tranny?
Off topic but for testimony of my expérience, my buescher straight alto gold plated, my conn F mezzo soprano, my King saxello, my couesnon alto low A and high G,
Are all vintage, are all made during 1920-1950 and all are Best ergonomics for me.
Just to say, don't worry it's not because it's vintage horn are bad ergonomics, you're good making horn with good ergonomics, and bad making horn with bad ergonomics, all vintage are not same and They are not equal in terms of quality,

Don't forget at this period, it was made by handing not machine, and for that all horn have this own personnality and own default and quality,
 
The dawkes tenor have no eb-vent/ trill key. Martin dropped the Eb vent key à la Imperial on the Martin Special model. The brace on the neck looks more as as a Conn NW 1 or II. Slighty curved .... .The colour of the neck is also a little bit differnt compared to the body. I don't remember when Martin started to stamped the serial number on thier necks? The tone holes are not Committee toneholes.

The Imperial alto I owned had laquered brass keys. The solid nickel silver keys on my HC 1938 tenor are silver plated as well.

It doesn't matter as long as the sax is playing well. But it is sold as a Martin Handcraft.
All valid observations. Good eye !
I noticed the neck support too. Odd. Most/all after 1930 have the flat stamped brace. I don’t know of any Martin without a SN # on neck. Even my early #17xxx neck is numbered. I don’t see one in listing pictures.
The mouthpiece cork looks thicker than most. The end has a reinforcement ring. Not what I normally see. Cork is usually paper thin and no end ring.
Another odd bit is the crook octave key. This matches the horn itself. So ???
I’m thinking the Eb trill went away in 1930 beginning with the Typewriter ?
The tone hole sockets are definitely not committee flavor.
“Handcraft” is pretty much a generic first word on all most all.
 

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