Saxophones Case refurbishment

I did this case renovation a while back. A few pictures posted here and there but nothing of the complete build.
Sometimes there are no options for a aftermarket replacement case. So this is what happens when you try to restore what you have. It’s very time consuming but in this case (pun intended )worth it.

This is a case to a 1933-ish H. Bettoney metal clarinet. Initial inspection it looked like it just needed a few spots of glue.

I’ve never done a complete overhaul of a case before. Previously I’ve had some success relining the interior of a flute case.

I’ve had extensive formal training in cabinet furniture/Millworks. Originally the trade I planned my future for. Things change. This project is well within my comfort zone. I actually started to giggle because this was just stupid. I’m only doing this because I can and need the case. I already know this is going to be 50 hours of work.

 

[PigSquealer]

With all the dimensions checked out it’s time to install the hardware. The fabric covers the hardware so it needs to go in first.
For starters I had mentioned earlier in the thread about hardware fit. I did consider nut and screw hardware. The issue is the protrusion on the inside or too much bulk on the outside to clear the latch hasp. With case fully open the heads would crash into each other at the hinges.
The split rivets lay very flat on each side.
The black looking one is orginal. The brass to the right is the replacement I’m using.

This is the area where the mouthpiece trough is. I don’t think I want a mouthpiece rubbing on exposed hardware. The fabric drapes over the red band material and tacks on with a little glue.

Same issue in Lyra holder and reed storage location.

 

[PigSquealer]

As you can see in the fourth picture above I’ve installed the hinges. Split rivit on the inside is nicely flat. The vinyl covering is spongy with lots of bulk. Sorry for the missing pictures. I placed a square of masking tape on top of the vinyl in each location. Traced the outline of each hinge. Located the holes with a scratch awl. Drilled the holes just under size the diameter of the split rivet. With a straight edge I checked to make sure the hinges were parallel. Heated the vinyl smooth. While still hot I quickly installed the hinge while peening over the splits. Otherwise the hinges will become loose over time.

In the picture above the ones to the back are the three that go to the locks. They were almost too short. After this step I did make little wood wedges to go inside them. Extra security.
To the face side of the locks you can see how close the latch came to the rivet head.

Prior to installing the rivets in the locks. I heated the part some. Then with a C clamp I applied a little pressure. This help imbed the lock mechanism into the vinyl some.

The top opens all the way without the rivet heads running into each other,

 

[PigSquealer]

Next up is the handle…..

Trying to duplicate the above original was complete stupidity. Perfectly good waste of my time.

Simple was much easier!
I took a piece of material about 9 inches long and 2 inches wide. I drew a line down the middle of the back. With the PVC glue set I primed and then apply the adhesive. Folded each half over to the line. Clamped and let sit overnight.

Trimmed a nice radius on the end with a coin.

Installed the D rings. Folded over the same distance on each. Clamped to hold. Then punched 3 holes with hole punch. With some leather use twine I stitched it all together. The twine and punch is seen in the second picture of this post.

 

[PigSquealer]

Second attempt was a lot better than this disaster😳

Happiness 🙂

 

[PigSquealer]

Next the bottom section front & sides inside.
I saved the old parts to build from.

Thickness and a rigidity matter with this part. It guides the top into position upon closing.

I selected some .020 coated blank material. Making two sets I laminated them together.

 

[PigSquealer]

With the part fabricated. I proceeded by ironing the fabric then adhering it with the hot melt multipurpose adhesive. Leaving the lower area uncovered will be good for the hotmelt glue to the wood area Install.

 

[Targa]

With all the dimensions checked out it’s time to install the hardware. The fabric covers the hardware so it needs to go in first.
For starters I had mentioned earlier in the thread about hardware fit. I did consider nut and screw hardware. The issue is the protrusion on the inside or too much bulk on the outside to clear the latch hasp. With case fully open the heads would crash into each other at the hinges.
The split rivets lay very flat on each side.
The black looking one is orginal. The brass to the right is the replacement I’m using.
View attachment 21106
View attachment 21107
This is the area where the mouthpiece trough is. I don’t think I want a mouthpiece rubbing on two nuts. The fabric drapes over the red band material and tacks on with a little glue.
View attachment 21108
Same issue in Lyra holder and reed storage location.
View attachment 21109
View attachment 21110

A phrase in the middle of that made me crack up, find it for yourselves.

 

[Jeanette]

A phrase in the middle of that made me crack up, find it for yourselves.

You are naughty!!

Jx

 

[PigSquealer]

You are naughty!!

Jx

I’ll change it tomorrow. It’s past 1:30 AM here in Northern California. I’ve got a flight to catch in a couple hours back to LA. Need to get some sleep.

 

[Jeanette]

I’ll change it tomorrow. It’s past 1:30 AM here in Northern California. I’ve got a flight to catch in a couple hours back to LA. Need to get some sleep.

I wouldn't worry it's just his mind. I never gave it a thought until I read Targa's comment 🙂

 

[mizmar]

A phrase in the middle of that made me crack up, find it for yourselves.

Right up there with post #72

 

[Littleboyblue]

Very nice exterior. The interior plans should come out excellent

 

[PigSquealer]

Right up there with post #72

What does one expect from a mechanic writing a article

 

[mizmar]

What does one expect from a mechanic writing a article

Jokes about sending the apprentice to the stores for a long screw!?

 

[PigSquealer]

Jokes about sending the apprentice to the stores for a long screw!?

Yes a rivet stretcher would have been handy. Maybe a can of wood thicker too.

 

[PigSquealer]

Working on the inside top fabric. Easy section as I just duplicated what was there previously. This glues around the outer perimeter then backfills with a little batting for cushioning.
I inked lines to the exact fold dimensions. I don’t want it being too short. The length needs to be long enough for hinge cover.

I ironed the material prior to bonding with the hot melt glue. The crease made getting things true and straight much easier.

With the edges glued inside the top I back filled with a little batting material. This came from an old pillow.

No telling if the case opened all the way. So with hot melt glue and hot iron i tacked it inside the top. Laid the case flat then draped the material over the edge to finish the hinge. A little glue to hold it in place on the bottom half. Testing the hinge area showed no faults. Nap of the fabric was long. Think of it as folding with the grain instead of across grain.

Next a quick fabrication of the cross block that goes over the neckend.

 

[PigSquealer]

I didn’t attach it inside the top. Still need to check position so it doesn’t smash something on one of the stacks.

A little sanding of the instrument rack is kind. This has no cushioning behind it. The way the fabric is tacked on works as a suspension system. This step probably isn’t necessary. I just don’t like rough edges.

Almost forgot to install the protective shoe plate.

 

[PigSquealer]

Prior to installing the fabric in the top I did check clearance. With the tray in and the instrument supported on some thin foam. I placed a piece of clay then closed the lid.

This picture is where the support block is mounted in the lid.

Zero contact on bell.

 

[Littleboyblue]

Do you have plans on engraving the case o’chap

 

[PigSquealer]

Do you have plans on engraving the case o’chap

Not this time. Although I did think about using a branding iron for 0:00001 seconds.