Saxophones Buescher True Tone 1926 C melody sax possible to play without repad?

Thanks everyone! I’m going to get the rest of the keys off tonight and will update. Hoping it’s just the one pad that is torn.🤞 Little nervous about cleaning those leather pads. They seem very fragile. Thanks for the warning. 🙏
The more of everything you try to clean.
The more that will need fixing.
I were doing this service I would do the minimum just to make it play.


Note, at the time there were many DIY’er of priceless antique horns.
 
As previously stated, take pictures of everything, including the cork.
Pics of Piccolo cork, prior to removal for new pads etc etc.
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Okay, I’ll try not to mess with those pads too much in that case. 😅
Leather needs something of 10% oil content to be soft and flexible. Without oil the protein in the leather sticks together and becomes hard.
As pad leather is very thin you only need a few drups for each pad. Naptha gives less oxidation than natural oil. So it is perfect to treat old leather.
 
Here they all are. Only one pad is torn.😀 I thought I was missing a resonator, but they all seem to be here. I watched the music medic video on installing Buescher pads and it seemed quite complicated with the leveling of cups, shellac, hole punching, etc... They recommended this product if I ended up needing to replace them all. I'm not opposed to buying a set of pads, but I don't have any of the corresponding gear (shellac gun, bench block). Hopefully I can get away with not having to replace them all.
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The more of everything you try to clean.
The more that will need fixing.
I were doing this service I would do the minimum just to make it play.


Note, at the time there were many DIY’er of priceless antique horns.
Thanks for this thread link!

Any special tricks to cleaning the inside of the saxophone? It's a myriad of colors. Green, brown and black. Looks like a creature died in there. 😅
 
Here they all are. Only one pad is torn.😀 I thought I was missing a resonator, but they all seem to be here. I watched the music medic video on installing Buescher pads and it seemed quite complicated with the leveling of cups, shellac, hole punching, etc... They recommended this product if I ended up needing to replace them all. I'm not opposed to buying a set of pads, but I don't have any of the corresponding gear (shellac gun, bench block). Hopefully I can get away with not having to replace them all.
View attachment 28102
View attachment 28103


Thanks for this thread link!

Any special tricks to cleaning the inside of the saxophone? It's a myriad of colors. Green, brown and black. Looks like a creature died in there. 😅
First of all, congrats on getting everything apart without breaking anything!
Second, the installation procedure explained by MM is, er, the complicated way of doing a simple task. My analogy would be you buy a set of screws and the vendor gives you a hammer and a grinding wheel and a file to remove the thread of the screws so you can hammer them in. Seriously! I've emailed them and shown them how there is an easy way by just pulling the snaps, using the original metal discs as springload for the replacement pads, stick them in and level them with a few flicks of a finger against the cup.

But, to their excuse or justification, many of the older horns have undergone bad repairs and need extra love and care to even get close to the "original installation" and that's where their method is valid. How do I know? I've done several old Bueschers with snap resos and zero glue and they are the best horns I have, simple as that.

The MM sets are ok but if you just order one, you will very likely end up with maybe 5, maybe 8 (last set I ordered) pads that were off by as much as 2 mm diameter.

Right now what I see are 5 pads that need to be replaced, the low C (torn with the paper backing still in the cup) the 3 palm keys and the side E (the latter 4 may still "work" but they are the trouble spots on every horn and very easy to install.

Make sure you clean the cups and, since it looks like there was a repad already with non-original pads that were glued in, get rid of the gunk with Naphta or WD40. and then just stick in the new pads, With the small ones - easy peasy, the low C, you may have to cut a plastic disc or catfood can lid but you'll see once you dry-fit a new pad, whether it is too low or too high or tilted to one side or the other.

For adjusting and leveling the cups, really the best tool I have found is some old credit cards cut into strips and maybe folded over, you insert them at the high (tight) spot and gently press down on the cup until it is level about 1mm above the tone hole chimney. There are fancy tools and they are not one iota better, probably even worse but as of now, the only pad you may need anything like that for is the big torn one. ]

FWIW, here is the tally of my Buescher c-mel pads in mm but it is a 1922 so you may have slightly different numbers when you measure them. But most likely it'll be 1x 17mm and 3x 19mm that you need and one 45mm (42??)

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You’ve done very well. The one bad pad looks like Eb ? (Back of bow). Take the key & pad to you local shop and ask for replacement. Hopefully they will have one of the same thickness. The hole too.
Clean all the hinge tubes and rods. Reassemble the thing. Check for leaks. Worst case you cover a few tone holes with masking tape.
Test play to see if you even like it. Then make a decision if you want to replace the pads.
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You’ve done very well. The one bad pad looks like Eb ? (Back of bow). Take the key & pad to you local shop and ask for replacement. Hopefully they will have one of the same thickness. The hole too.
Clean all the hinge tubes and rods. Reassemble the thing. Check for leaks. Worst case you cover a few tone holes with masking tape.
Test play to see if you even like it. Then make a decision if you want to replace the pads.
View attachment 28105
I'm sorry but how would you test play a horn like that? It's like test driving a car with 2 flat tires and 1 donut.
 
Any special tricks to cleaning the inside of the saxophone? It's a myriad of colors. Green, brown and black. Looks like a creature died in there. 😅
Definition of dirty & stinky…:rofl:. Like the Feral cat flavor ?
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Warm water and Dawn dish soap. After drying squirt some WD-40 into a cup. Dip a Q-tip into it and apply it on all the springs so they don’t rust.
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The easy way to clean the bore is to get a pad saver, take off the end cap and stick it on a power drill and then run it a few times (carefully) inside the horn. You may want to get a tenor pad saver, i will be too long but you can always cut off a piece of the thick end. Inside the horn you can use silver or brass cleaner and it'll be 5 min tops to get all the gunk out. And then you rinse off the pad saver so you can use it for regular cleaning. A tenor pad saver end plug will not fit into the tenon receiver of the c-mel so you may have to go with another one for alto or you go with an alto pad saver right away.
 
@PenelopeTX I applaud you! You’ve got guts and common sense, a rare combination. (Well, maybe common sense is a bit too much - this is a C Melody after all…. sorry!). But you are doing great.

Don’t buy the pad set. If you replace pads, you need to measure each pad cup - and maybe order 2 of each, because pads will vary slightly in size. Some people order 2 sizes per cup - for example if your cup measures 23.2mm, they will order a 23 and a 23.5. Music Medic will exchange pads in sets, but it’s just easier to order what you need.

Do what @PigSquealer says - he knows way more than me and a lot of other folks here, and he is the C Melody specialist!
 

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