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Tech/maintenance Abalone key pearls

They were nylon. If they were mop, I would have left them in. I prefer MOP as well, but I thought the stainless would add a neat contrast to the silver key work. I will look into getting them sand blasted. Good idea Dr G.
Bead blasting may be another alternative worth checking.

Have you seen black pearl? That could give you the desired different look, yet maintain the magical properties of nacre.
 
Bead blasting may be another alternative worth checking.

Have you seen black pearl? That could give you the desired different look, yet maintain the magical properties of nacre.
I have seen black pearl, and I think it's pretty. Unfortunately all the black pearl styles that I've seen are just plastic. Trying to find a legit supplier that doesn't cost a fortune it another hurdle.
 
I wonder if waxing then would make a difference ? Have any car wax ? Pledge ?
I use Pledge on my brass instruments and it's made a difference for cleaning and giving them that "lemon fresh" smell. I did try the Pledge on the pearls, and it didn't work the way I had hoped. But, all the pearls have been removed (grinded down as only one popped out). I like the look of the Cannonball stones, but don't like the feel as much as pearl. Music Medic offers aluminum pearls in cobalt blue and black, and stainless steel in silver finish. Not sure I'd like the blue. Especially when it comes to resale. Probably wouldn't be able to sell it with blue pearls.
 
Not sure I'd like the blue. Especially when it comes to resale. Probably wouldn't be able to sell it with blue pearls.
Would it be a detriment if say upon selling, you mention that you had it recently serviced and pearls replaced with custom ones? (Just thinking, however, not familiar if those would degrade resale value if you weren't planning to keep it. Pro'lly safe than sorry.)
Surprisingly, my 575 Allegro has MOP key pearls. So when I purchased my 62III, it was obvious that Yamaha cut some corners.
Just curious but what were some of those cost cuts? Been entertaining a possible 62 in my future.
 
I use Pledge on my brass instruments and it's made a difference for cleaning and giving them that "lemon fresh" smell. I did try the Pledge on the pearls, and it didn't work the way I had hoped.
Thanks for your reply. This qualifies they weren’t dirty even from one session.
I have a stupid question. Define sticky. Like your fingers couldn’t slide on the touches and became irritated, or tacky by lifting ?
 
I use Pledge on my brass instruments and it's made a difference for cleaning and giving them that "lemon fresh" smell. I did try the Pledge on the pearls, and it didn't work the way I had hoped.
Avoid the Pledge on the pearls - that leaves a slippery coating. I suggest the contrary - something like Windex to remove anything on the surface. I just like to keep my pearls clean rather than lubricated. For saxophone lacquer, I use the same product as on my guitars (nitro lacquer) - Meguiars Cleaner/Polish. It's made to be compatible with quality finishes on cars. Pledge is for furniture.
 
Would it be a detriment if say upon selling, you mention that you had it recently serviced and pearls replaced with custom ones? (Just thinking, however, not familiar if those would degrade resale value if you weren't planning to keep it. Pro'lly safe than sorry.)

Just curious but what were some of those cost cuts? Been entertaining a possible 62 in my future.
The 62III is a fine horn. I just don’t like the feel of the nylon pearls under my fingers tips. I removed them myself, and am looking for a different pearl solution—whether it be authentic MOP from an 875, semi precious stones like seen on the Cannonball horns, wood like the Rampone and Cazzani, abalone shell, or the aluminum or stainless steel pearls from Music Medic.
 
I have been considering wood, anyone use them?

Where can one get metal touches?
I once saw an alto with black hard rubber touches and that popped.
 
Thanks for your reply. This qualifies they weren’t dirty even from one session.
I have a stupid question. Define sticky. Like your fingers couldn’t slide on the touches and became irritated, or tacky by lifting ?
Not a stupid question… my fingers stick to the nylon pearls when I play. Like the pearls become tacky when lifting. Strange. I don’t have that issue with the real MOP’s on my Selmer or my other Yamaha Saxophones. Just on the nylon pearls.
 
I have been considering wood, anyone use them?
I do like the look of wood. Curious how they’d feel and look on my silver 62?
 
Regarding the tacky feeling of the plastic pearls, could they still have some mold release from manufacturing on them, and a good cleaning would remove this tackiness?

Since seems you already removed them, now a mute point.

Seems any other authentic choice would actually be an upgrade and if it improves your playing comfort then goal is met.

Just a few thoughts.
 
Avoid the Pledge on the pearls - that leaves a slippery coating. I suggest the contrary - something like Windex to remove anything on the surface. I just like to keep my pearls clean rather than lubricated.
No pledge on pearls. I was suggesting a try on the plastic ones. Without understanding the OP’s definition of “sticky” i was thinking maybe slippery was the needs. Clean is always a good thing😊

For saxophone lacquer, I use the same product as on my guitars (nitro lacquer) - Meguiars Cleaner/Polish. It's made to be compatible with quality finishes on cars. Pledge is for furniture.
There’s some new graphite car finish products that surpass Meguiars now. It took a lot of convincing to make me move to Mother’s Ceramics and G-Max graphite. 35+ years using Meguiars products and changed.
IMHO There’s nothing wrong with using pledge provided it’s not sprayed directly onto an assembled sax.
 
I do like the look of wood. Curious how they’d feel and look on my silver 62?

There are original wood key touches on my alto Keilwerth SX90R Anniversary (Edition 75) alto, but not on the matching tenor that I have. It has been reviewed by @Stephen Howard and he has some lovely pictures of it on his website.

The colour scheme of the Keilwerth is really eye-catching with black body and neck, silver bow and bell and silver keywork. I like how the wood key touches look against that. They feel fine too.

Rhys
 
My 25's have the plastic pearls. A quick going over with a coarse sand paper took off the shine and got rid of the slippiness.

Sticky pearls might be what you're drinking. Either from breath condensation or from your hands.
I tried sandpaper initially. Was still sticky after playing for awhile. Possibly due to nylon and my bodies chemical make up.

I don't drink soda, or alcohol. I only drink water. Zero artificial added sugars in my diet.
 
Regarding the tacky feeling of the plastic pearls, could they still have some mold release from manufacturing on them, and a good cleaning would remove this tackiness?

Since seems you already removed them, now a mute point.

Seems any other authentic choice would actually be an upgrade and if it improves your playing comfort then goal is met.

Just a few thoughts.
I had my horn completely overhauled--cleaned, oiled, new Pisoni pads, and adjusted. I had the issue before my overhaul, so I wouldn't think there would be any manufacturing mold on the nylon key pearls.
 

Similar threads... or are they? Maybe not but they could be worth reading anyway 😀

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