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Reeds Working on reeds: preparation, maintenance and care

Preparing a reed for playing (summary)​


1. Moisten the reed: Place the reed in a cup of water (or in your mouth if you prefer) for around 30 seconds to a minute. This will allow the reed to absorb water and make it play more easily.

2. Adjust the reed: After soaking, take the reed out of the water and examine it. Some reeds may be thicker than others or have uneven tips. Use a reed knife or reed clipper to shape the reed to your liking. Make small adjustments at first, as it’s easier to take more off than to add back on.

3. Clean the reed: After adjusting the reed, wipe it down with a cloth or tissue to remove any excess water or debris.

4. Test the reed: Once the reed is adjusted and cleaned, test it on your saxophone. Play various notes and listen for any buzzing or unevenness in the sound. Adjust the reed as needed until it plays smoothly.

5. Store the reed: When you’re finished playing, remove the reed from the mouthpiece and store it in a reed holder or case. This will help keep the reed from drying out or getting damaged.

Remember, reed preparation is a personal preference and may require some trial-and-error to find what works best for you. But following these steps should help you get started on the right path!

Care & Storage​

I find that reeds play best when wet, you can moisten them in your mouth for a while or soak them in a glass of water (some people recommend alcohol such as vodka). If you have the time and patience, it is a good idea to “run in” a new reed by wetting for a few minutes every day for three or four days before playing. If a reed has become warped due to drying out too quickly after playing it may need several minutes soaking, otherwise I prefer to just moisten with saliva.

It is best to store cane reeds on a flat surface, which obviously helps to keep the reed from warping, but it can also be a good idea to actually stop it drying out at all when you are not playing it, as the constant wetting and drying process can shorten the life of the reed. Plus, if it is kept even very slightly moist, then it will always be ready to play when you put it on the mouthpiece – reeds that have totally dried out often crinkle at the tip when remoistened.

The perfect storage method is the ReedJuvinate . This system involves a watertight storage container with three reedholders and a sponge which can be kept moist, and so ensuring the reeds never actually dry out.

If you use Listerine (recommended) or low sugar content alcohol such as vodka, then this will also prevent mould or microbes growing on the reed – something that you find often happens if you keep reeds in a glass of water.

The reed holders work perfectly for any reed from sopranino to bass and are ideal for rotating three reeds, and a really neat feature is the magnetic metal strip (see image) so you can easily attach it to a music or microphone stand.

Conditioning a cane reed (aka Preparing or “prepping” a reed)​

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKM9wRIvYmk


It’s unlikely that all the reeds in a box will play well. You can improve the immediate playability of a reed sometimes. If the underside of the reed is not flat, traditionally saxophone players flatten it by (a) taking a piece of fine emery paper, lay it flat on a piece of glass and gently sand the bottom of the reed by moving the reed across the emery paper lengthwise or (b) scraping gently with a razor blade holding the blade almost at right angles across the whole width of the reed and use steady smooth strokes.

Checking again after you have played on it for a while​

After a reed has been played on, the wetness can sometimes cause further slight distortion. Often this can be cured by simply tightening the ligature slightly, but it can also be worth reflattening the bottom of the reed.

Swollen or warped saxophone cane reed


You can see how this reed has become concave due to swelling. However, this could be symptom of an uneven mouthpiece table causing water or spit to get under the reed.

Altering the strength of cane reeds​

You can easily make a reed harder or softer yourself.

Making a reed harder​


To make it harder you can clip the end off with a reed trimmer. At a pinch you can try the old fashioned method which is to find a coin with the same curve, hold it against the end of the reed and burn off a little at a time. Trimming a reed may not be ideal as it changes the basic geometry of the reed – the heart becomes closer to the tip so you should not trim off more than about 1/32 of an inch (1.5 mm).

 Trimming cane reeds


The slightly shaded area represents the thicker bit of reed you would see if you hold it up to the light. The heart is very important.
Imagine taking a bit off the tip, the heart therefore becomes closer to the tip so upsetting the possibly ideal contour as in this picture of a reed that has had too much trimmed, you can see there is very little shaved reed between the heart and tip:

Cane Reed Trimming


See how the heart is closer to the tip with the clipped reed
There are other problems involved with using a reed clipper to rejuvenate an old reed:

  1. The reed gets a built-in bend following the curve of the mouthpiece lay (possibly worse for those of us who leave the reed on the mouthpiece)
  2. The composition of cane reeds can deteriorate: the fibres break down due to saliva saturation and constant flexing and vibration of the reed, so even if you have cured the reed of being too soft, it will still not vibrate as well as a younger reed.
A reed clipper in this case is likely to have only a short-term beneficial effect, but with the side effect of compromising the make up of the reed (ie the heart becoming closer to the tip as I said earlier). If this side effect is not as pronounced as the beneficial effect of “hardening” the reed, then you may have a few more minutes or even hours of use from the reed.

Softening Cane Reeds​

First make sure you have given the reed a chance to “settle in” by blowing it for a while.
The traditional method is to use reed rush, fine sand paper or a very sharp blade to gradually remove material from the top of the reed.

You can also use the wonderful all-purpose reed tool, the Reedgeek, (see above) which I highly recommend (watch this space for a review). This comes with some instructions on where and how to remove material.

Making a cane reed softer
Remove material from the top, at the sides.
Check first whether the reed appears symmetrical. If not then first remove material from the side which seems heaviest when you look through it at a light source, otherwise you can remove material from both sides equally. Shave the sides (of the top) towards the tip, don’t sand or scrape the middle or heart of the reed unless you are really experienced or if it is very obviously asymmetrical. The heart should be bullet shaped as in the pictures above when you hold it to the light. Do not remove any material from the tip or near the tip.
 
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This is really what prompted my initial question - trying to understand whether there were advantages in soaking the reed in water over simply keeping it in the mouth for a few seconds. Capillary action, suggested by Mel makes some sense, though.

I was being slightly facetious when I asked if anyone drank the booze afterwards, though I don't suppose it'd do too much harm, especially if one rinsed the reed before soaking it. But I hardly drink alcohol at all these days, after dangerous excesses in my younger days.
 
Oh, I usually leave the mouthpiece and reed on the sax and often try to wet it in situ. I'm not sure why, especially as I have a Rovner lig, which makes adjustments so much easier than those pesky two screw things. It's probably like using the wheels on an office chair to get to the other side of the room, when it would clearly be easier to stand up and walk... 🙂
 
I was being slightly facetious when I asked if anyone drank the booze afterwards, though I don't suppose it'd do too much harm, especially if one rinsed the reed before soaking it.


Ha ha, I misunderstood, you wanted to know if anyone sucked the alcohol out of the reed while playing as opposed to drinking what was left in the glass with the sediment I mentioned in my initial response!

Good one!
 
When you stick a reed briefly in your mouth then you are mainly just moistening the tip with saliva, which is not that good for the reed - saliva has substances in it that will rot the reed and it will last a shorter period. You do need to wet the whole reed, not just the tip, for it to play at its best.

There are now several metal ligatures which have just one screw - include the latest Selmer Paris Lig, the Francois Louis Basic Lig, The Vandoren MO Lig and the BG tradition & Jazz Ligs. Cheapest is the Rovner Star Lig, though, which might be worth a punt, though my favourite of those is the FL Basic Lig.
 
You do need to wet the whole reed, not just the tip, for it to play at its best.

I had not known to soak the whole length of the reed instead of just the shaped end. Thank you. Guess what I will be having a go with today!?

More and more, I keep thinking I need to spend a week in your music room working with you Tom! I will bring Cheesecake of various flavours, grovel grovel

Mel 😀
 
For practicing a quick wet in the mouth while setting up the instrument works fine. When gigging with three saxes and a clarinet, I used to chuck them all in a glass of soda water while setting up. It pays to have them very wet with the cap on to help with drying out. Nothing like picking the clarinet up for a solo spot and squeaking through petite fleur.

I used to stay away from alcohol then and now. I had some idea at the time that the soda water worked better than tap water but I can't for the life of me remember what that might have been. Probably some pseudo scientific superstitious pretentious mystical clap trap. I used to be full of it.

The textile ligatures work very well and can be a little kinder to the mouthpiece. Some metal ligatures leave nasty marks which may affect the sell on price if it's not a keeper.

I've tried them both ways up. Bars on the reed seems to work best for me.
 
Sorry Colin, this bit has flown right over the top of my head. I'm truly in Space Cadet mode this morning. Please expand?

Thanks

Mel

I don't know why I've made a special case for a textile ligature being able to be rotated. They all can be rotated.

Some of the textile ligatures have special ribs that sit on the reed for some sort of added vibration. These only play the one way round. I can't say I'm a fan. However what doesn't work for one may be ideal for another.
 
I don't know why I've made a special case for a textile ligature being able to be rotated. They all can be rotated.

Some of the textile ligatures have special ribs that sit on the reed for some sort of added vibration. These only play the one way round. I can't say I'm a fan. However what doesn't work for one may be ideal for another.

Had more coffee! I understand what you are saying now. I have ligs that have two raised dots on them for that. And I don't notice any difference either (to my untrained ear) other than ease of painful finger joints to set up on the rovner types
 
On a slight tangent.... can the reed be too wet? Just had my first hour or so on the new BW which started well and ended with what sounded like a conference for mice (squeak squeak) Probably me but the reed by this time was 'well wet'..
 
On a slight tangent.... can the reed be too wet? Just had my first hour or so on the new BW which started well and ended with what sounded like a conference for mice (squeak squeak) Probably me but the reed by this time was 'well wet'..

How long have you been playing ML? it just sounds like some tension may have crept in.
 
On a slight tangent.... can the reed be too wet? Just had my first hour or so on the new BW which started well and ended with what sounded like a conference for mice (squeak squeak) Probably me but the reed by this time was 'well wet'..


I had this happen to me when I first got used to practicing longer than 10-15 mins on my Tenor, and also by the time I was getting to the end of a 45 min band practice. It passed after a few days of consistent practice and I've not had any problem since. I have therefore put it down to emboucher and strengthening of my chops so they don't get tired and loose power so much.

Mel
 
I use to wet the reed in my mouth when I was younger, and after switching over to soaking the entire reed in warm water, I've found that it does make a big difference in the way the reed responds for me.

As mentioned, the reed does leave some deposits in the liquid you choose to soak it in. Even a brand new reed will do this. I'm sure the used reeds also deposit gunk that builds up from playing (dead skin cells, minute particles of whatever is in the mouth, etc...). When I'm at a gig, I usually soak one in pure water and keep a backup sitting in water on stage in case I damage the one I'm playing on. Sometimes I soak the reed in Jack Daniels, which I like to drink on the rocks. I always leave the last sip of Jack since noticing that reeds exude some kind of crud when soaked.

I've been thinking of doing an experiment with my "bad" reeds that I never intend on playing. Since I usually throw away about half the reeds in a box, I'm planning to save them up and proceed as follows.

I want to take a dozen brand new reeds and soak them in warm water together. As time passes, I'll take a reed out and cut it (across the grain) in a few places then examine how far the moisture has penetrated. I figure that I'll remove one from the water and cut it every 3-4 minutes to form a timeline. I guess my goal is to know how long is long enough to soak a reed so it is fully saturated. This may be a trivial, but the scientist in me thinks it could yield a bit of info.
 
Since reading this article I have experimented in soaking my reeds after then just wetting them in my mouth. I have noticed a change in tone quality and a reduction in warm up time to get the reed good and moving. I'm liking it another change in my daily routine. Now if I could only turn my horn into nice BW tenor. Any tips for that?
 
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