When to change reed strength?

[Chris98]

Hello,

Apologies in advance if this has already been covered and I missed it in my searches.

This maybe a dumb question but how do I know when to move up a reed strength? What are the signs I should be looking out for?

All the best,

Chris

 

[rs2sensen]

This is actually an excellent question, unfortunately, there is no real "good" answer for it. Beginners usually start on a very light reed because the muscles that make up their embouchure haven't developed yet. The advantage of a light reed is that you can get a very quick response out of it, especially in the center register. The disadvantage, is that this free response causes the tone quality to suffer.

I usually advise that a student play on the hardest reed they feel comfortable on and can play for long periods of time on. Over time, this will build up a strong embouchure and playing habits, and the player can actually move down to a lighter reed, because they'll then be able to get a better tone quality on the lighter reed.

My best advice is to have a good teacher to advise you specifically on where you should be. I usually recommend something like a Rico 2.5 to start on, after a year or so time maybe moving on to a 3 or a 3.5. I usually don't go harder than a 3.5 unless there has been several years experience, in which case I might jump to a 4, and then work downwards to a 3 or 3.5. It's tricksy. Play too hard of a reed and you'll develop bad habits, play too soft of a reed and your tone will always be lacking, your embouchure won't develop well, and it will be harder to learn certain advanced techniques.

 

[frankb]

I found this online in the FAQ section at http://www.reedexpress.co.uk (newbie myself so can't speak for its accuracy)

Q. How will I know when it is time to change?
A. The aim is to produce an even sound across the range of the instrument. If the top register notes sound thin and wavy, you probably need to go up a grade. If you find difficulty producing notes at the bottom end, you may need a thinner reed.

 

[Pete Thomas]

My advice is different to rs2sensen, but that doesn't mean it's necessarily better. I prefer not to use anything harder than 2.5, but to increase tip opening on the mouthpiece if you feel a need to "move up". It's always an interesting debate though.

Softer reeds suit my style of playing as I like a lot of versatility, however it can take a lot of work to be able to play on soft reeds and still get volume and upper range.

 

[Chris98]

[No message]

 

[Linky Lee]

I tend to find that going up a size of mouthpiece brings about the same kind of embouchure development and makes the high notes richer and a bit harder for the lower notes like moving up a reed strength. But it also improves your overall tone and the finesse of your control, which moving up a reed strength doesn't bring with it.

I play 2.5 reeds (ish) Surely I need an RPC now. I'm sure my mum will agree now that I have logic on my side.

 

[rs2sensen]

Pete Thomas wrote:
I prefer not to use anything harder than 2.5, but to increase tip opening on the mouthpiece if you feel a need to "move up".

Hey Pete. Very interesting strategy. I never really thought of it that way! It would seem to me, and I could be wrong, that classical players would be more apt to push towards harder reeds, and jazz/rock/etc. players would be more keen to follow your strategy? I'm sure it could be applied to both, but it seems to me that in general classical players tend to be on harder reeds anyways.

 

[philthd]

i think reed discipline is more imortant to worry about

scientifically, until you can be consistant under a fairly consistant set of parameters, how will you know whats different when you change something

im a total hypocrite - i used to play the same reeds forever and ever until they were a flimsy mess of slpinters held together by saliva, but then when i had to put a new reed on of the same kind it seemd impossibly hard because my chops had got so lazy.

once i started rotating properly and keeping an eye on the condition of reeds i was playing my tone improved a lot.



that said, when i first started out my teacher was a reed faffer - i never knew what type of reeds i was playing on and it wouldnt have mattered because at least every other lesson he would scrape it down or clip it up and somehow those reeds just lasted

 

[Pete Thomas]

It would seem to me, and I could be wrong, that classical players would be more apt to push towards harder reeds, and jazz/rock/etc. players would be more keen to follow your strategy? I'm sure it could be applied to both, but it seems to me that in general classical players tend to be on harder reeds anyways.

A reasonable generalisation, I'd say classical is nearly always towards the harder reed and narrower tip, jazz and rock can really go either way though usually with wider tips than classical anyway.

 

[rs2sensen]

I also recommend Rico Reed Vitalizer. http://www.ricoreeds.com/productdetails.aspx?productCategoryName=Accessories&productID=4086

I once asked my lesson teacher (prof. Trent Kynaston of Western Michigan Univ.) about reed maintenance. We talked about soaking the reeds for a few minutes, about how to properly sand a reed, that sort of thing. But he also pulled one of these Rico packs out of his case. He puts his reeds in a plastic bag, and then throws one of these pouches in there with them. They keep the humidity level at an exact percentage (whichever pack you buy), and when you pull the reeds out, he requires very little warming up to get each to play properly. They just do, every time.

 

[Bobby G]

Like Pete, I tend towards going for a wider mouthpiece rather than harder reeds. I used to play on a Selmer D with RJS 3Soft reeds, but found the flexibility of a Selmer F, or (as I am now using) a Beechler 8 with RJS 2Medium suits my playing well - I can get the volume if I need it, pitch-bending and vibrato are easier, and I also find mellower playing and subtone are better too.

Cheers, Bob