Saxophones Van Marle Baritone, Who made this ?

[PigSquealer]

Just a forewarning...take apart the side Bb and C lever pieces carefully...some unique design there, the barrels have a steel tube inserted inside of them ....

Thanks for the heads up. Yes I know. The barrels are assembled then pinned with a taper pin to hold in place. Just like flutes. Haven’t been able to get this apart yet. I was unsuccessful with removing the pin and extracting the rod. Heat did nothing. There’s no damage. I may just leave it alone and remount as is. The parts moved freely upon disassembly. I’ve since soaked in solvents, flushed and submerged in oil for weeks. I think it will be just fine. Nothing loose or binding.

 

[JayeNM]

Yeah, then leave it assembled

 

[turf3]

So it looks like you were able to get the pin out, but you can't separate the keys from the steel? As you say, I'd suggest there's no real reason to get it apart.

 

[Woodpad]

I love these types of research projects. I know a person that may have some Olds catalogs & records. I’m literally 20 minutes away from where Olds was in Fullerton California. Home of Fender guitars too.

The sections all look like they were made at the same time. The upper joint is a true joint. The engraving is consistent on all sections. It has a good flow and the technique looks like the same person executed it. The machining of all the parts is consistent and uniform. Could be worked over in time for New Years party.



SN #1786. No other markings. The area slightly below the number is an illusion. That’s not a P or LP or anything else.
View attachment 24156

For the record, the number on my pre 1945 Tillemans Pierret bari to low Bb, Hp, with fixed neck, no water key is: 3497. As all numbers are different it doesn't look like a serial number or simple code.

 

[Ivan]

Does anyone else read the title of this thread and think of gently heated egg yolk, butter and lemon juice, whisked over a double boiler?

 

[PigSquealer]

Does anyone else read the title of this thread and think of gently heated egg yolk, butter and lemon juice, whisked over a double boiler?

No

 

[Stephen Howard]

Thanks for the heads up. Yes I know. The barrels are assembled then pinned with a taper pin to hold in place. Just like flutes. Haven’t been able to get this apart yet. I was unsuccessful with removing the pin and extracting the rod. Heat did nothing. There’s no damage. I may just leave it alone and remount as is. The parts moved freely upon disassembly. I’ve since soaked in solvents, flushed and submerged in oil for weeks. I think it will be just fine. Nothing loose or binding.

What sometimes happens is that a burr is formed on the steel rod when the pin is fitted, which then locks the rod in place even when the pin is removed. If you have nerves of (ho-ho) steel you can twist the whole assembly and pray that it knocks the burr off. And then pray that the loose burr doesn't then jam in the barrel.
If the key is otherwise functional I find the most sensible approach is to get as much freeing agent/oil in the barrel as possible and then leave it for the next person to deal with....by which time things may well have eased up a little.

I once dealt with such a key where the hole in the barrel was so badly worn that a pin wouldn't hold it all in place....so someone popped a drop of solder at the end of the barrel. It worked just fine - it just took me a couple of hours to figure out why none of the usual tricks would get the rod to move in the barrel.

 

[PigSquealer]

What sometimes happens is that a burr is formed on the steel rod when the pin is fitted, which then locks the rod in place even when the pin is removed. If you have nerves of (ho-ho) steel you can twist the whole assembly and pray that it knocks the burr off. And then pray that the loose burr doesn't then jam in the barrel.
If the key is otherwise functional I find the most sensible approach is to get as much freeing agent/oil in the barrel as possible and then leave it for the next person to deal with....by which time things may well have eased up a little.

I once dealt with such a key where the hole in the barrel was so badly worn that a pin wouldn't hold it all in place....so someone popped a drop of solder at the end of the barrel. It worked just fine - it just took me a couple of hours to figure out why none of the usual tricks would get the rod to move in the barrel.

Thanks for chiming in. You’re spot on with what my exact situation experience is here. The reason why I stopped….after a few months of review. There’s only so many ways to build or extract the assembly. None of which I could successfully reverse. It’s a case of choosing your evil. It’s moves freely. Not loose and straight. Well oiled and working fine.
Some times it’s best just to leave well enough alone 😉