- 8,483
I too like the look of a low Bb bari
Nice work! Cutting a thin wall tube takes a little patience and a good set up like this. I’m curious how you mounted the socket and cut the old sleeve out to size in the new one. Then I assume you silver soldered on the new socket. Then proceeded to (soft ?) solder the new part on to the crook. Or did you silver solder it all at one time ?A new entry for the Benchlife Blog! The Chu Berry TJ RAW.
Following on from the hideously botched TJ RAW, I've detailed the process of fixing the horn and making a new tenon sleeve for the Chu Berry crook.
Came out quite nice, though I'm on the fence as to whether it's a worthwhile mod...
A rolling blog of everyday life on and around the workbench
An informal peek at what goes on in the SHWoodwind workshopwww.shwoodwind.co.uk
View attachment 22291
I used the tapered brass mandrel to mount the sleeve (gave it a tap to get it nice and tight) then centred it in the chuck. I then used a small and very sharp carbide boring bar to gently cut the sleeve out of the socket.Nice work! Cutting a thin wall tube takes a little patience and a good set up like this. I’m curious how you mounted the socket and cut the old sleeve out to size in the new one. Then I assume you silver soldered on the new socket. Then proceeded to (soft ?) solder the new part on to the crook. Or did you silver solder it all at one time ?
Yep, it's a one-time operation.I kind of guessed you went that route. That’s one of those jobs where you get one shot to make it right. Easy on the cuts. You blink wrong the part will be on the floor mashed.
I think I would try this turning in reverse. Tool towards me and upside down. Anything hangs it will lift the tool.
Yep, there was a small shoulder. It needed one, otherwise it would have been tricking squaring up the new sleeve. Plenty of meat in the socket ring. But - it had to be done in one go right at the end of the turning job...because the moment you cut through the original sleeve, the socket will fall off.The fun stuff always comes with a certain amount of risk. It’s the worst when ya do it to yourself. Baaaaad switch.
When you cut the sleeve out of the socket did you add a small shoulder? Or part shoulder on the socket and part on the new sleeve. I’m having a hard time envisioning much meat left on the socket to mandrel to hold the part.
Sometimes it's about the only way to make it work....but a good vernier caliper is your very best friend.I call that a brave man cut. All chips on the table 😉
Yup.<speechless>
I can't say that I blame you.Your reviews led me to striking Borgani of my list. If I am going to get another tenor, it should last me at least 20 years without major problems (like my YTS32 has done)
Very true!I can't say that I blame you.
The real tragedy is that underneath all that shonkiness they're very fine horns. They may not be to everyone's taste, but while I feel it's a good thing that there are manufacturers out there who are producing rather more individual horns - it can never be an excuse for sub-par build quality. Especially at the price being asked.
I think that what annoys me the most, though, is that it would cost so little to address the issues during manufacture - and while the result might be a price hike of, say, a hundred or so pounds, it would very greatly add to the desirability of these horns.
The Lovano was interesting. Disregarding the build issues I felt it occupied a very niche position in terms of its tonal presentation. Not my cup of tea, but I can see how many players would find its 'more vintage' approach very appealing.Very true!
my former teacher played a Joe Lovano tenor, he seemed very pleased with it.
One might say that they are playing the general game of cutting costs to keep the prices low (or the profits high?). But I guess they are not competing against the cheap saxes,
They have a public all of their own.
Their competition would be the likes of Keilwerth and the vintage American saxes I think. So why would they cut corners and produce cheapo saxes?