Reeds Reed doctoring

Bobby G · May 13, 2006

I see a lot of references to the amount of good reeds in a box, how many/few are playable etc. I usually manage to play ok on most reeds out of the same box, although some just don't feel right. Some just need playing in for a while, and there's something to be said for rotating 3 or 4 reeds across playing sessions. for some reason, I have less problems with tenor reeds than with alto.

Is there anything I can do to make the 'bad' reeds better? I've heard about scraping/filing, and someone in here mentioned giving them a good soaking, but is that a permanent solution or only good while the reed is wet?

Thanks for any help, Bob

lee_ · May 14, 2006

There is a ton of info out there on reed adjusting. You first have to decide what is wrong with it, then reshape in the particular area that is appropriate.

I used to be pretty good at it, but I don't do it any more. I've been using Fibrecell reeds for more than a year. Almost all of em operate as you would expect right out of the box. And they last much, much longer than cane reeds.

I think you probably do give up a little bit of tone quality, compared to a well-adjusted unfatigued cane reed. But it's not enough to continue with the aggravation, IMO. Also, since I play alto and tenor both, and switch back and forth all night, I don't have to worry about keeping reeds properly moistened.

I think I've been paying about $10 each at music123.com and places like that.

If you want to continue adjusting cane reeds, you need that zone chart and troubleshooting guide that tells you which zone is responsible for which malady. I believe it's in the Teal book, but probably other places, too.

wolfmaiden · Jun 8, 2006

I've been using the ATG system for about a year now and can make ANY reed playable with it (yes, even Legere synthetics!!) - the system itself is simple, it's the DVD and technique that you pay for - but I swear it's saved me over $600 US so far in 'rescued' reeds......well, that, and a Cordier reed trimmer!! 8)

tengu01 · Jun 8, 2006

This might be a silly question, but what is the ATG system? :?

Paul_Dennis · Jun 8, 2006

I haven't a clue about the ATG system and would love to know what it is.

I've never practised any form of reed doctoring but am careful about what I buy. I play Hemkes (alto and tenor) and find them of good quality, reliable and a high percentage play well straight from the box after wetting.

I have a different idea about what happens with a new reed and Ken's practice of wetting one, laying it flat on a sheet of glass and rubbing a spoon from the shoulder to the tip is a clue. You can all try the same experiment if you wish!

The fibres in a reed are arranged longitudinally and act like little straws. Take a new reed, wet it and then place the wrong end in your mouth and blow. Tiny bubbles of air will appear where the air exits the reed between the shoulder and tip. After rubbing with a spoon you close off the ends of the fibres, sealing them and it's no longer actually possible to blow air through the reed. After doing this I find many reeds become more playable.

Wether the closing of of the fibres has anything to do with it I have no idea!

spike · Jun 8, 2006

Re: ATG

Don't know anything about it, have only heard of it, I prefer my trusty emery boards and an old piece of 2 by 4. - but here's a link:

http://www.ridenourclarinetproducts.com/ATG1.html

and another one to a well documented Reed drilling page from the famous Bootman from Oz. It also includes lots more links to reed doctoring pages.

http://www.geocities.com/reed_drilling/

wolfmaiden · Jun 10, 2006

At 08:10:38 AM 08/06/06, Paul Dennis wrote:
I haven't a clue about the ATG system and would love to know what it is.

oops - sorry - forgot to 'subscribe' to the thread....

'ATG' stands for 'against the grain' - which is the opposite of what we've all been taught about reed sanding - but the method (as demonstrated by Tom Ridenour) works - it really does work - actually, the kit itself isn't much to shout about - I've ended up making my own sanding block etc from supplies at Michaels craft store......much sturdier too, and my sandpaper stays put!!! (sorry Tom!).....but it's the DVD and booklet that are priceless - there's only one reed I haven't been able to make (HQ) playable, and that's a Hemke - I swear it's warped convex on the table, at least 30 degrees!! (mind you, with a LOT of sanding, it could end up as a great sopranino reed....... ).
I've even used the system for adjusting Legeres (as they're always too darn hard!!!).........doesn't work with plasticovers though, or bari's.
The only reeds that get trashed now are the ones I split with stupid handling!!