Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

Life around the barn.

Tales from a pig that likes to stick his nose into everything.

Paint that S. How difficult could it be ?

1) Search the net.
2) Find the color.
3) Order color.
4) Study task on University of YouTube, aka; For destruction by DYI presented by pro tech.

Do the cleaning & prep.

Paint and cleanup / detail the edges with hard cotton swabs. Sounds easy……

Yeah tha guy Matt makes it look easy.
Anyone remember your first experience cooking bacon crispy while still in the frying pan !

 

[Tuppertn]

I burned all mine up when I did the Buescher 157. Haven't had the need of it since. I don't delacquer anything anymore unless it's end-stage, ugly red underneath or a relac to begin with.

The more you dilute it the longer the reaction takes. I did a 1:100 dilution because my thought was to watch it slowly develop over several minutes until it reached the color I wanted. On a small part like this you could probably dilute it 1:1 or 1:2, get a deep color in a few seconds then buff it back to a lighter shade with 0000 steel wool.

 

[PigSquealer]

I let the acetone air dry then put the horn in my oven at 300F for 20 minutes.

I’m surprised it didn’t self disassemble. That’s in range of solder melting. 😬

 

[Tuppertn]

I’m surprised it didn’t self disassemble. That’s in range of solder melting. 😬

This is reaching back a ways into the memory cobwebs, but I seem to remember looking it up and finding something like 350F for the (likely) lead-based solder they used.

At the time I was also doing some Cerakote projects for fun and that's the temperature that is recommended to liquify and "bake-out" any residual oils trapped in the pores of the metal before application. I was experimenting.

 

[mark_addy]

@Stephen Howard @mark_addy I’ve stepped up and bought a collet set. Actually two. Both bottom rungs.
The MT3 ER-32 kit covers 3-2mm to 20-19mm / .079 to .787.
The ER-16 covers 0,79 to 9.53mm / .032 to .375

The MT3 ER-16 holder $13 arrives in next few days. No spanner.
The ER-16, 12 piece assortment below was a painful $12. Kit total $25. DIY case was dirt cheap 🤪
Cute little buggers.
View attachment 37975

The MT3 ER-32 kit was expensive @ $27. Probably due to the spanner, case, and 3 more collets 🤔 Although double the metal mass could be a factor too 🤣.
View attachment 37976

Both holders are hollow. ER32 drawbar thread M12-1.75 D.I.N. I hope the ER16 is same as no information was available. A simple distance spacer for length offset and one bar should do.
The 5C kit will keep until later or be bundled with a new lathe 😉

Funny thing, I don’t recall my watch lathe having collets larger than .125 / 3.5mm. I’ve never had a 5C in hand. These 32’s seem massive 🤣. Small compared to the 20’ aerospace lathe’s I’ve seen.

That's amazing value. We use ER40 at work on an R8 adaptor for the Bridgeport - it's very useful for holding cutters with 1" shank which are way too big for R8 collets, but with no positive lock to the cutters (unlike e.g. a Clarkson chuck) you have to do those things up TIGHT. 5C collets fit in our S&B 1024 there, they are quite large things - but I bought a 5C-to-ER40 chuck because it's cheaper to use the miller collets than to get hold of a whole new set. And I'm a tight-arse even with my employer's money.

My 3Cs from the US of A have apparently turned up, but I am down with Dad in the S.E. Well, we'll see what they are like at the weekend.

 

[SuperAction80]

Has anyone ever tried a model enamel for this particular job? The idea has crossed my mind over the years. I'm just waiting for some substantial chipping to happen before I tackle this job on my horn. And yes, I'll be switching the color. Looks like the original Serie III neck uses a royal blue. I may go with that more rare burgundy option. Maybe something off the wall. I'll see when I get there. But yeah, using a bottle of Testors with a finer brush ought to make this a pretty simple job. I've spent a lot of time with scale models as a kid. I had a lot of time to think about my failures and successes on this matter. 😆

In this case, it looks like the particular enamel is too thick. I suggested model paint, because it would flow around the S very evenly. The paint used here was designed for larger jobs. Viscosity can really make or break finer detailing like this.

 

[rhysonsax]

Looks like the original Serie III neck uses a royal blue.

I think that Selmer, rather appropriately, use "French Blue" on the octave key "S".

Rhys

 

[PigSquealer]

Has anyone ever tried a model enamel for this particular job? The idea has crossed my mind over the years. I'm just waiting for some substantial chipping to happen before I tackle this job on my horn. And yes, I'll be switching the color. Looks like the original Serie III neck uses a royal blue. I may go with that more rare burgundy option. Maybe something off the wall. I'll see when I get there. But yeah, using a bottle of Testors with a finer brush ought to make this a pretty simple job. I've spent a lot of time with scale models as a kid. I had a lot of time to think about my failures and successes on this matter. 😆

In this case, it looks like the particular enamel is too thick. I suggested model paint, because it would flow around the S very evenly. The paint used here was designed for larger jobs. Viscosity can really make or break finer detailing like this.

The paint is the official factory color in Enamel. French Blue gloss. This was researched by Matt Stoher. Still he never cited his sources or any citations, so 🤷‍♂️.
The early post you read only lightly covers the thinning process used and recommended by the paint manufacturer Humbrol. Model Paint - Humbrol Acrylic and Enamel
I made an additional post on the process being “repeatable”. See post #738 and a longevity review post on post #1066. It’s disastrous straight from the container.

I think that Selmer, rather appropriately, use "French Blue" on the octave key "S".
Rhys

Yes. Still there could be a hue difference. Take a “S” sample from multiple years. I doubt that they will be the same straight from the factory. A small difference just from the pigment source, raw materials and weight accuracy will change the hue. Raw materials ? Yeah, the density weight to volume of the vehicle (varnish) matters.
I worked a lifetime in the printing industry. The history of color uniformity globally is an interesting subject.
My commercial printing facility didn’t implement the Pantone standard until the mid 1980’s. 1992 I invested $10k in color spectrometers. By 2005 advancements in reading color density on any given substrate to display on monitor and record for QC was $10k per station. You could literally view the color consistency on 35,000 sheet run over eight hours. What demands the level of color control ? Branding corporate logos, automotive catalogs with colors of interiors or paints, cosmetics were insanely sensitive. Revlon Red is just that ! No Grey or Gray about it !

The History of Pantone: How One Company Standardized Color — ColorFYI

The complete history of Pantone: from Lawrence Herbert's 1963 vision to the Pantone Matching System, Color of the Year, and digital color standards used

colorfyi.com

It’s all small stuff to learn.

 

[PigSquealer]

That's amazing value. We use ER40 at work on an R8 adaptor for the Bridgeport - it's very useful for holding cutters with 1" shank which are way too big for R8 collets, but with no positive lock to the cutters (unlike e.g. a Clarkson chuck) you have to do those things up TIGHT. 5C collets fit in our S&B 1024 there, they are quite large things - but I bought a 5C-to-ER40 chuck because it's cheaper to use the miller collets than to get hold of a whole new set. And I'm a tight-arse even with my employer's money.

My 3Cs from the US of A have apparently turned up, but I am down with Dad in the S.E. Well, we'll see what they are like at the weekend.

Yeah, dirt cheap ! I kept the acquisition to a minimum assortment. Lots of options to be had. My basic needs I think are covered. Realistically anything over 1/2”/ 13mm I’ll just use my 3 or 4 jaw chucks. The 3 jaw range is.059”/ 1.5mm to 13/16” / 20.6mm on spindle hole or 1-1/2” x 4” inside chuck. Dunno capacity from chuck face on jaws…it’s “enough”🤪.

 

[PigSquealer]

Anyone been studying the names of action parts / keywork names ??? Don’t post a question asking for help fixing
“That bit or this thingy” ! You don’t eat off a plate with thing things. Do you ask for the thing plate ?
Parts of any machine have names. Some more than one, crook or neck. Same thing. Depending on where you live. Still a proper named bit, not that up by me left hand. Yeah, +/- three fingers.

I’ll send a Squealer Pig anywhere on the globe free of charge to the first member who can name all the keys with cups below. There’s 25. Six have clues attached 😉

Can’t count or name them ?
Here’s a checklist to work from.

 

[PigSquealer]

Need to see pads in place to know what key cups with pads look like🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Ok I can furnish that too…

 

[PigSquealer]

Still need help ??

Above has a forked E on lower left body.

The test exam doesn’t have that key, but it does have this below.

Good luck ! May the best Bagpiper win !

 

[PigSquealer]

Home from Friday night burger outing.

Shop time 🙂

 

[mark_addy]

Home from Friday night burger outing.
View attachment 38069
Shop time 🙂

That's very, very stylish. But I reckon I got home to the North from London yesterday on less fuel than that car used in the home-and-back to the burger joint. One must take one's consolations where one finds them 🙂

Old Fords in the UK have a different kind of mental association - the 'Dagenham Dustbin' - mind I have a friend who is sort-of on-the-team with the bloke who races this: 1968 Ford Cortina estate - axiomefi.com. My Dad had the same series saloon when I was very small, a year older, 1300L (L meant 'Luxe' which I think meant it had carpets). 0-60 might have best been described as 'perhaps, downhill, following wind'.
🙂

 

[PigSquealer]

That's very, very stylish. But I reckon I got home to the North from London yesterday on less fuel than that car used in the home-and-back to the burger joint. One must take one's consolations where one finds them 🙂

Old Fords in the UK have a different kind of mental association - the 'Dagenham Dustbin' - mind I have a friend who is sort-of on-the-team with the bloke who races this: 1968 Ford Cortina estate - axiomefi.com. My Dad had the same series saloon when I was very small, a year older, 1300L (L meant 'Luxe' which I think meant it had carpets). 0-60 might have best been described as 'perhaps, downhill, following wind'.
🙂

That picture I took above of the Ford was a participants. I thought palm tree looked cool. Gas round trip was half the cost of the $18 burger. My daily driver (‘89 245 Volvo) is my gas sipper.
In 1966 nobody cared about fuel mileage. This is my ride for car club outings.

 

[PigSquealer]

Another fix on Martin Imperial. The crook thumb screw was bent with less than desirable threads. Yes these are available new. Nothing like a shiny new part on a patina monster.
Below after I straightened it out.

Here’s looking at the fix.

A box of 30 screws costs around $9. Size is 8-32 x 1” UNC.

I wrapped the bit with strip of .012 aluminum. No marking and additional layers allowed fit in my 4 jaw chuck.

Once secured and running true. I cut off the excess.

I then machine the face. The little remaining pin is from having the cutting bit set below center.

 

[PigSquealer]

Knock the pin off and start a center point.

The 8-32 tap requires a #29 .136” hole. 1/4” is the depth. The scale on tailstock (bottom of pic) is in 1/16” increments.

A 8-32 bottom tap was used to cut the threads.

Check the work before removing from machine.