Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

Life around the barn.
Tales from a pig that likes to stick his nose into everything.

Paint that S. How difficult could it be ?
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1) Search the net.
2) Find the color.
3) Order color.
4) Study task on University of YouTube, aka; For destruction by DYI presented by pro tech.
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Do the cleaning & prep.
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Paint and cleanup / detail the edges with hard cotton swabs. Sounds easy……:confused:
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Yeah tha guy Matt makes it look easy.
Anyone remember your first experience cooking bacon crispy while still in the frying pan !
 
Modern tech failure….like I really need a power screwdriver for sax repair. Still I like everything in the shop in proper working order.
Disassembled I tested the motor function. It was fine. The problem was gearbox lubricant. Was dry & hard.
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Soaked all the parts in solvent for an hour.
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Little parts are easy to loose. Keep a count at each step. Don’t toss the baby out with the bath water.
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Works like a charm. Five minutes to disassemble. An hour soaking. 10 minutes to dry off, check & lube. Five minutes to reassemble. It was worth it.
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New crook cork. Do the math first ?
It’s not often I have a Dr. Caravan C mouthpiece/ Conn micro tuner combination to cork. Doc plays a Conn C and made / tests these on one.
My customer received a new Caravan. I asked to check the shank size. I distinctly remember these being a bit large. The one I have I’ve never used. 16.95mm / .667 is something like a half mm 1/32 larger than average. So large I thought someone had altered it.
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The good news is most can now have more cork.

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I’ll let the peanut gallery crunch these numbers. (.094) Good time to learn converting too. I work in Whitworth, mm, inch, picas, DIN, SAE, JIS.
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I’ve had this log a long time.
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The tube diameter on nut side is .520 The first third was just perfect without sanding. Go easy on sanding to fit.
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It is interesting that the sop has an adjustable stop collar so the instrumentalist mounts the mouthpiece precisely the same tuning distance on the cork every time. This is the first time that I have seen this feature. The latest models including high end pro lack this so I guess it became obsolescent.
 
Small details… Making a pad shim if needed. Easy task.
Just draw around the pad and cut out.
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So it turns out just a bit large and you now have a pencil mark all the way around your new pad.
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No big deal just shave some off.
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This above is the difference between consistently good work, and yeah whatever Dude.
Below is my way and that’s not often a needed anyway.
 
It’s all small stuff and not difficult.

Measure the pad diameter.
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The measurement above is to cup edge. I do want some give space. 0,5 is fine.
Subtract 0,5 from the major diameter and divide by two. Lock the tool in position.
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Mark the measure on your shim stock.
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With a very basic compass aligned to marks. Draw the circle and cut out.
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The importance of basic skills above is likely old hat to most of us here. Many of us learned these skills many years ago when these things were taught in schools. Pre middle school. Basic life thinking skills. Making things with your hands….and brain. No smartphone, no youboob. This is why I don’t hesitate to post remedial basic skills like above. Hopefully someone will benefit.
 
Moving forward, looking to the good things of this week.

I afforded an old (1923) C smelly case some TLC.

A few well placed #18 x 1” finishing brads.
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I push these in with basic pliers or mole wrench. The wood is very soft.
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One of the corner protectors had missing split rivet. With no access to split a rivet from inside. I opted to use a pop rivet.
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It doesn’t hurt to give the hinges a spot of oil too. Notice the installed brads in right picture.
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