Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

Life around the barn.

Tales from a pig that likes to stick his nose into everything.

Paint that S. How difficult could it be ?

1) Search the net.
2) Find the color.
3) Order color.
4) Study task on University of YouTube, aka; For destruction by DYI presented by pro tech.

Do the cleaning & prep.

Paint and cleanup / detail the edges with hard cotton swabs. Sounds easy……

Yeah tha guy Matt makes it look easy.
Anyone remember your first experience cooking bacon crispy while still in the frying pan !

 

[PigSquealer]

Just placed a HMG stick in the freezer to see what happens. Temp is -11°c / 12°f.

@LostCircuits it did nothing to the stick but make it momentarily harder. Just like going from molten to plastic state. A quick thermal change response. FWIW @ 3:00 hours the temperature of 10mm round stick was 18°c / 65°f.

 

[LostCircuits]

@LostCircuits it did nothing to the stick but make it momentarily harder. Just like going from molten to plastic state. A quick thermal change response. FWIW @ 3:00 hours the temperature of 10mm round stick was 18°c / 65°f.

Yes but if you have some HMG in a cup.anf freeze it, it migh

 

[LostCircuits]

Might be possible to knock it just out.
(Sorry, edit function does not work with my phone)

 

[Woodpad]

Tried you olive oil method with waxine light paraffin in equal amount to the glue. It also did the trick.

 

[PigSquealer]

@ 14-1/2” / 37cm this thing has a looooong hinge rod for a tenor. The full upper stack is all on this one.

 

[Tuppertn]

@ 14-1/2” / 37cm this thing has a looooong hinge rod for a tenor. The full upper stack is all on this one.

Was it straight? It did have a body bend up there when I got it.

 

[PigSquealer]

Was it straight? It did have a body bend up there when I got it.

Yes. This also explains why the body is so straight. Your tech obviously aligned the body and tightened up the upper stack action.
The lower stack action is much looser, but not bad. I’ll sort this out too.
Everything was / is straight but the octave touch arm.

Someone installed a much smaller diameter rod to make it work. The lower pictured is stack rod.

The stack rod is .006 larger in diameter and fits.

Binding is the issue….
But not anymore.

New replacement rod is done too.

A bit of dent was addressed too.

 

[PigSquealer]

For the part to move freely it needs to run as true as possible.
Running a dial indicator parallel along the barrel and turning to check the part.

The part moves freely enough. No need to upsize the rod.

This is on the actual rod stock to make the part pictured in above post. Having an inventory is handy.

 

[Woodpad]

@ 14-1/2” / 37cm this thing has a looooong hinge rod for a tenor. The full upper stack is all on this one.

When reassembling my Hohner President tenor I got curious and measured the upper stack rod as 43 cm.

 

[Tuppertn]

Love it! You do nice work, Sir Pig.

 

[PigSquealer]

When reassembling my Hohner President tenor I got curious and measured the upper stack rod as 43 cm.

That’s looong ! Like we need an extra foot of bench to get the rod in place.

 

[PigSquealer]

Love it! You do nice work, Sir Pig.

Thanks, your 57 tenor is coming along nicely.

Everything is well cleaned. The keywork I’m really happy that all the HMG came off.
The last of it with a light brush & wipe. Was just a few cups and easy to spot the “white” tell all sign.

 

[PigSquealer]

All clean

The previous tech spent a bunch of time scraping the cups. His signature is everywhere. I use wood or bamboo to prevent autographing the cups.

 

[PigSquealer]

The pads are actually in. I took this picture a few days ago. A few rivets still to install .

Index card for records. I list positions from memory then count. Most have 24. lol, I missed stack F#.
NO= Neck octave, SC= Side C etc. the number is cup measurement in MM.

 

[PigSquealer]

With pads sealing well to socket rim. I’m setting a mild impression into pads.
Start with G# and go down. I warm the leather with a hot air touch or a warmed pad ring. Then with very gentle pressure wedge the key closed. How gently? If I squeeze the key any the wedge will fall out.

This is different than using clamps or rubber bands. Setting an impression this way requires that the key & pillar fit is of high quality. The springs are loaded too for this step.

Notice the gap between top of key feet and bottom edge of backbar. Nothing but a wedge is holding the F# key closed. This also shows a good starting point for regulating materials.

Good time to check the F# to G# finger gap too. This distance was reviewed during dry fit.

Get everything the way you want and let it rest a day.

 

[mark_addy]

For the part to move freely it needs to run as true as possible.
Running a dial indicator parallel along the barrel and turning to check the part.
View attachment 32060

The part moves freely enough. No need to upsize the rod.
View attachment 32061

This is on the actual rod stock to make the part pictured in above post. Having an inventory is handy.
View attachment 32062

Here we call a lathe with V-ways 'American Pattern' (appropriately enough 🙂 ) - but yours is not a South Bend 9 (or clone, like mine) as that has 3 Vs...so, I wonder what? Everything in my shed is dripping wet tonight, as we went from -5 deg last couple of nights to plus 5 now, and the air is warm(-er) and wet. A real PITA at this time of year, we'll have this on and off until April probably. Home-made WD40 to the rescue. At our museum, keeping the rust under control on everything is sometimes a losing battle.

ETA - I very much like your slitting jig for putting slots in the end of rods!

 

[PigSquealer]

Here we call a lathe with V-ways 'American Pattern' (appropriately enough 🙂 ) - but yours is not a South Bend 9 (or clone, like mine) as that has 3 Vs...so, I wonder what? Everything in my shed is dripping wet tonight, as we went from -5 deg last couple of nights to plus 5 now, and the air is warm(-er) and wet. A real PITA at this time of year, we'll have this on and off until April probably. Home-made WD40 to the rescue. At our museum, keeping the rust under control on everything is sometimes a losing battle.

ETA - I very much like your slitting jig for putting slots in the end of rods!

Ugg, soggy shed syndrome is no fun at all. Some venting at roof ridge may help?

The slotting tool is handy if you’re doing enough work to justify the investment.

G44 Screw Slot Sawing Tool

Create clean, accurate screw slots with the G44 Screw Slot Sawing Tool, available in multiple options for detailed woodwind repair and restoration work.

www.ferreestoolsinc.com

Slots can also be done with a moto tool (Dremel) and cutting wheel. Just get creative making a jig.
Option. Jewelers saw blade 2/0 to strike position & depth. Final with 32t hacksaw blade of .032 / 0,82 thickness. Hold the part in vise with soft wood sandwiched.
The rod material is 0-1 annealed.

My lathe is a 1948 Logan, model 820, 10” x 30”. Purchased $300 as project just pre Covid. Was a mess. Time consuming restoration including rebuilding the motor, gearbox, carriage and tail stock. I spent a week scraping the ways.

 

[mark_addy]

Ugg, soggy shed syndrome is no fun at all. Some venting at roof ridge may help?

The slotting tool is handy if you’re doing enough work to justify the investment.

G44 Screw Slot Sawing Tool

Create clean, accurate screw slots with the G44 Screw Slot Sawing Tool, available in multiple options for detailed woodwind repair and restoration work.

www.ferreestoolsinc.com

Slots can also be done with a moto tool (Dremel) and cutting wheel. Just get creative making a jig.
Option. Jewelers saw blade 2/0 to strike position & depth. Final with 32t hacksaw blade of .032 / 0,82 thickness. Hold the part in vise with soft wood sandwiched.
The rod material is 0-1 annealed.

My lathe is a 1948 Logan, model 820, 10” x 30”. Purchased $300 as project just pre Covid. Was a mess. Time consuming restoration including rebuilding the motor, gearbox, carriage and tail stock. I spent a week scraping the ways.

Maybe you've come across this site; if not perhaps you'll find the link interesting.

Logan lathes

Logan Lathes Page 2 Logan Lathe Accessories<br>Logan 200 Catalog Extracts Logan 210 Catalog Extracts<br> <br>Logan Turret Lathes Montgomery Ward Logan Shaper Logan Technical Literature is available

www.lathes.co.uk

I have a terrible habit of spending hours making single-use tools, sometimes not even for myself. The motivation is often finding interesting uses for scrap - I saw that jig and thought of the tin full of small slitting saw blades I have somewhere. Unless I laid it out very carefully, I can imagine making something which would put off-center slots in pins with remarkable consistency 🙂

 

[PigSquealer]

Maybe you've come across this site; if not perhaps you'll find the link interesting.

Logan lathes

Logan Lathes Page 2 Logan Lathe Accessories<br>Logan 200 Catalog Extracts Logan 210 Catalog Extracts<br> <br>Logan Turret Lathes Montgomery Ward Logan Shaper Logan Technical Literature is available

www.lathes.co.uk

I have a terrible habit of spending hours making single-use tools, sometimes not even for myself. The motivation is often finding interesting uses for scrap - I saw that jig and thought of the tin full of small slitting saw blades I have somewhere. Unless I laid it out very carefully, I can imagine making something which would put off-center slots in pins with remarkable consistency 🙂

Yep, I’ve seen the Logan information before. Thanks for the link. Another member may enjoy reading about these.
I see loads of slots that are off center and crooked.
I recut all of these. At 0,39 there was little screwdriver bite.

 

[PigSquealer]

I have a terrible habit of spending hours making single-use tools, sometimes not even for myself. The motivation is often finding interesting uses for scrap

Made from Grade 5 bolt and scrap bits.
See post #301 on this thread.