Musicmedic Neo Pads

Just setting up to video the sloppiness but the pad spud pin wasn't quite at the right location to go in to the socket slot and broke off. Shown here between pad and spud...

20241229_113048.webp


And here is it's connection point, the little crater in the ball. Spud now useless...

20241229_113213.webp


Here's the video anyhow. Pad mounted on a flat disc so that it can tilt...

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/IV4dDGP9_WE?si=QIpJ8IDAZFCdvEwW


Also, I noticed when handling the pad today that the standard "low" spud mount doesn't allow the pad to self-level due to the concave nature of a pad cup, as here...

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/s9GPOD894Tc?feature=share
 
Just setting up to video the sloppiness but the pad spud pin wasn't quite at the right location to go in to the socket slot and broke off. Shown here between pad and spud...

View attachment 27894

And here is it's connection point, the little crater in the ball. Spud now useless...

View attachment 27895

Here's the video anyhow. Pad mounted on a flat disc so that it can tilt...

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/IV4dDGP9_WE?si=QIpJ8IDAZFCdvEwW


Also, I noticed when handling the pad today that the standard "low" spud mount doesn't allow the pad to self-level due to the concave nature of a pad cup, as here...

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/s9GPOD894Tc?feature=share
A good example of problems that will be run into.👍 I noticed on the music medic vid they advised to buy the extra pack of spuds because they only supply the small ones with the pads.
The music medic tech dude never used the small ones and was advisising sticking washers in behind deep cups such as the king super 20s. Like whos going to do that to a supersonic. 2 spacers a long spud and an 8mm sticking surface, nah it just doesnt stack up in my mind nor in the cup I should imagine. He also said about using different size spuds for different cups which would mean key adjustment...Im still intrigued, but beyond a medium spud and the pads are flapping about in no mans land and wouldnt feel firm enough under your fingers surely.
 
Just setting up to video the sloppiness but the pad spud pin wasn't quite at the right location to go in to the socket slot and broke off. Shown here between pad and spud...

View attachment 27894

And here is it's connection point, the little crater in the ball. Spud now useless...

View attachment 27895

Here's the video anyhow. Pad mounted on a flat disc so that it can tilt...

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/IV4dDGP9_WE?si=QIpJ8IDAZFCdvEwW


Also, I noticed when handling the pad today that the standard "low" spud mount doesn't allow the pad to self-level due to the concave nature of a pad cup, as here...

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/s9GPOD894Tc?feature=share
But you had the wrong size pad in that video :banana:

Actually, it is not much different with the Buescher snaps either. You really need to level the cups before you install the pads, using a thin shim or metal plate (like 1 mm thick) that you put over the tone holes and then level the cups until they are flush. If they cups are cockeyed relative to the chimneys, you won't be able to get a good seat/seal but that's kind of trivial.

Bottom line is that the pads are never really free-floating on the spuds, there is just enough give that they can adjust a few 1/10 of a mm and all I can tell you that I have done two horns like that now (original snaps) and both are as good as they come. The 156 is just absolutely amazing and the TT alto can hold its water against any other alto as well.

I am just getting started on another 156, haven't made a decision yet as to what pads I'll be using (it'll need a lot of body work first) but I am tempted with the NEOs.
 

Similar threads... or are they? Maybe not but they could be worth reading anyway 😀

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