Tech/maintenance Making parts you can’t find.

[PigSquealer]

From the above measurements the triangle was off. I asked for detail pictures of these views. Yeah, a bit bent. A good possibility one of the mounting tabs had been knocked loose and re-mounted.
+/- 1 mm makes a difference. The mounting holes I’m guessing at 3mm.

 

[PigSquealer]

From the gathered information I was able to make an old fashion pencil and paper drawing. Scanned on my copier as a PDF at 100% with ruler for scale then emailed. Two options.

The sax owner was able to print the copy. Check against the scale @ 100%. Then cut out for a trial fit.
Not all that bad considering all the variables !

 

[PigSquealer]

Drawing of part

The measurements were taken with the flat ruler on the horn. I added an additional 4 mm to the height dimension. When the part is formed to a curve, it will be 4 mm shorter. Total of 8mm added from start.

Sheet brass material, measuring tools

6“ x 14“ x .032 yellow sheet brass
One copy of drawing @ 100%
Stick of rub-on repositionable glue (not shown) or spray type.
3” masking tape

I covered one side with masking tape to protect from scratching. I squared the drawing to the bottom straight edge and right side. Then glued it down with spray glue.
That leaves only two sides to trim and finish.
Using a power jigsaw with a diamond blade. It took just a few minutes to cut out the piece.

---

Rough trimmed part

 

[PigSquealer]

With the rough edges filed and sanded smooth it’s time to add the engraving. This gets interesting. The straight lines I did with my square. The two curvatures on the top I did freehand. Just like I’m going to do the engraving. Not my weapon of choice either. It’s what I have on hand.

A test for tool setting, buzzzzzz.

 

[PigSquealer]

I was actually waiting for hole size to be measured. But then decided to do the engraving above while waiting.
The hole size was determined @ 2.7mm

3mm holes elongated for a bit of forgiveness.
The owner can file /adjust more if needed.

 

[PigSquealer]

Options on forming the curve.
Heat to soften, bend.
Bend as is.
Not that much to bend so bend as is.
The red line is centerline / halfway.

Guess the bend from pictures and measurements.

I clamped two metal bars across the bottom edge. Not a good time to warp that area.
With 2-1/2” ABS pipe, brute force and foreign language a bend was achieved.
This metal is not soft.

 

[PigSquealer]

Perfect ? Nope ! Better than nothing? Yep !

From pictures, measurements and being creative.

With the package I sent 3-48, 8-18 stainless screws. Got lucky as they fit. No part adjusting was necessary.

Now if I could just master matching the patina look…

 

[PigSquealer]

Next adventure.

 

[ghostler]

Missing rod guide post? To be a parts salvage from your sax boneyard?

Here's the clothes guard I came up with on my early 1950's Beaugnier Vito Bari that I spoke of earlier. I had not much to go on, so I just winged it with a piece of plain steel sheet metal used to repair auto bodies. It's not pretty but its functional.

 

[PigSquealer]

Missing rod guide post? To be a parts salvage from your sax boneyard?

Here's the clothes guard I came up with on my early 1950's Beaugnier Vito Bari that I spoke of earlier. I had not much to go on, so I just winged it with a piece of plain steel sheet metal used to repair auto bodies. It's not pretty but its functional.

View attachment 27783

Safe & working! Nothing wrong with that. I wonder what the real part looks like ?

Boneyard I only have a salvage yard. Survivors waiting to see the stage again.

 

[PigSquealer]

CAD drawing looks just like finished part.

Height check. I took some more off afterwards.

 

[PigSquealer]

Exact replacement ? Nope !

Looks good and works.

 

[ghostler]

Since the post is spaced far enough away from the other same size one, no one will ever notice the difference. It looks close enough to pass for an OEM part.

I looked at other Beaugnier saxes and their stencils (Noblet, etc.), could not find an exact one like mine but could see how it might have been on say a related year tenor. I was looking at attempting something made from ornamental brass sheet, but was too thin to work. Thus the steel. I may later on clean it up some more and refinish it in say gold spray paint, which might be a better match.

Regarding my use of the term "boneyard", isn't that where the sax has aged and can no longer play, and therefore has lost its soul? 😀

 

[PigSquealer]

Sometimes it’s down to whatever works. My machines have always completed the gig.

EML(the kit maker) stands for "Eigen Makelij", meaning made myself.
View attachment 27688

There is a Dutch firm with that name.

Yes EML is located in Holland. And the starter kit came from there.

 

[jonf]

CAD drawing looks just like finished part.

CAD. Cardboard Aided Design?

 

[jonf]

Exact replacement ? Nope !
View attachment 27787

Looks good and works.
View attachment 27789
View attachment 27788

Excellent work

 

[PigSquealer]

I did plate the part for those left wondering. Used several applications of Nushine.

 

[PigSquealer]

Onwards to a part with more challenging skills.
“ I’ve looked and posted wanted everywhere for over a year. Can you make one for me please?”
A very nice drawing was furnished by someone who wanted to help.

I noticed the part didn’t match the picture. I started checking some of the measurements and I’m glad I did.

After a week trying to get measurements sorted we received some luck.
A sample was aquired.

 

[ghostler]

Nice find, @PigSquealer , I could see how replicatinging a part like that from sheet brass and various dolly blocks and light hammer / mandrel could come close but would be very challenging to come up with an exact match.

Meanwhile, my early 1950's Beaugnier Vito has taken a turn for the worse. In prepping for a move, apparently sustained "hangar rash" (term used in damages to a balsa model aeroplane in storage or set aside.)

Apparently it fell over in its Gard soft case, denting the bell rim, breaking loose the brace between bell and body, shifting the hole alignment of pads near the brace and bending rods near the lower D pad. Being of softer red brass, it is easier to damage than grey brass.

It gives me opportunity to re-adjust bell alignment so lowest Bb pad is now centred instead of being off-set 3 mm toward body.

Being I've turned 70, I don't seem as excited to tackle repairs as I was when younger.

 

[PigSquealer]

Nice find, @PigSquealer , I could see how replicatinging a part like that from sheet brass and various dolly blocks and light hammer / mandrel could come close but would be very challenging to come up with an exact match.

That’s a sample to work from. I will still make the guard from sheet brass.