Saxophones Low Bb vs low A baritones.

I've not played a low A on a regular basis, only "fooling around" and that one year way back in college. But it always seemed to me that the intention was to get low A by playing low Bb and then adding the thumb key. Getting all three of those large keys with long whippy rods and arms and linkages to reliably close on the one thumb key always seemed pretty dubious to me.

That said, I have not had a modern low A bari in front of me for careful examination.
 
Low Bb baritones are made by R&C, Amati and P.Mauriat.

P.Mauriat PMB-302

Amati 63 Andromeda (according to Amati cz catalogue).

Maybe it's old info?
 
Low Bb baritones are made by R&C, Amati and P.Mauriat.

P.Mauriat PMB-302

Amati 63 Andromeda (according to Amati cz catalogue).

Maybe it's old info?
At Sweetwater, Eastman is also indicated, and POSSIBLY Keilwerth - they have a listing "with low Bb"; the photo shows a low A; so unconfirmed. Keilwerth's website does NOT indicate any low Bb models.
 
When listing who makes low Bb & low A baris, I didn't see JK's listing, that yes, is still available to the best of my knowledge. It says the following on their website:

The SX90 Baritone saxophones offer a rich, deep tone with versatility to adapt perfectly from the large ensemble to a small group or solo performance. Agile and precise key work lets the player maneuver with ease, while comfortably producing a full-bodied and robust sound. With optional ranges to either Low Bb or A, the SX90 Baritone is the optimum choice for the modern baritone saxophone player.

  • Options :
  • JK4300-8-0 :Gold lacquer, low Bb to High F#
  • JK4310-8-0 :Gold lacquer, low A to High F#

Although they don't show any low Bb horns on their site, I have some on my SX90 bari page if anyone is interested.
 
I've not played a low A on a regular basis, only "fooling around" and that one year way back in college. But it always seemed to me that the intention was to get low A by playing low Bb and then adding the thumb key. Getting all three of those large keys with long whippy rods and arms and linkages to reliably close on the one thumb key always seemed pretty dubious to me.

That said, I have not had a modern low A bari in front of me for careful examination.
The key (excuse pun) is in eliminating those long whippy rods - or at least minimising the flex inherent in such long and large keys.
But far and away the worst method is by the use of what I call 'flying arms' - such as those found on Yani 900 series baritones.

shwwimg_yanagisawa_900_baritone_bell.webp

Not only do the actuator arms flex but so do the receiving arms - so it all gets a bit approximate in the end.
The Yamaha system wins out by the sheer beefiness of its twin-armed thumb key, which has separate arms for the B/Bb and A keys - and the arms are kept as short as possible.
The modern Selmer 'round-the-back' mechanism comes in second place, but does offer an easier means of adjusting the bias. in the mech. The low A mech fitted to MkVI baritones is bloomin' awful.

The Conn-Selmer Avant 180 I fixed up yesterday has a round-the-back mech (with a naff thumb key. Too flat) but also has a triple captive keyguide for the bell keys. Makes an appreciable difference.
 
Yeah, that can be an issue for some I guess. Just doesn't resonate with me when one gig might be on alto and the next on bari. That's a much bigger difference than an extra key.
Yep, same for me back in the day when I was toting a Martin Handcraft bari on one number and the YTS-23 on the next.
And I have never, ever used a harness.
But I had a few tricky moments when playing a low A bari all night on a soul gig.

It's all about building up your core muscles. I did this with RAW by slinging it round my neck for a day while I mooched around the house. I mentioned this to a client just the other day who asked "Why didn't you just practice?"
"I was...I was practising carrying the horn around my neck!"
 

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