Leak lights

[RedBottom]

I've got a C Melody here that didn't cost me very much to buy (about ?90 plus shipping from the US). Since I haven't got the ?300 it will cost to put it into playing order, I figured it was cheap enough for me to have a go myself and not worry too much if it all goes bum up in the process. To this end, I'm slowly gathering books, supplier contacts and tools etc. in preparation for the big kick off.

I've been looking at leak lights. They seem to be nothing more than short lengths of rope light and if that's the case, I have a few electrical peeps around who can make me one cheaper than I buy one.

Only thing is, how do you use them? Do you have to work in the dark with it, or what? What am I supposed to be looking for?

 

[Saxlicker]

Well,
I bought one for just under ?10. Bottom line is, it does the job well in dim light.
I generally use it at night in a room where I have a dimmer switch, slip the brightness down enough so the orange glow of the rope light bulbs spill out through what should be closed pads.
It detects poor seals with a bright spill of light and very minor ones with what seems like the slightest illumination of the sealing face of the tone hole.

Note, every leak I have seen (even those bright ones) using this light can be eliminated with slightly firmer finger pressure. This pressure, though not really measureble is no more than my sub concious finger pressure when playing. So i'd imagine that anything that is really 'off' and is a significant singular cause of note failure or intonation problems will be seen when using the light in day light conditions.

P.S. In my minimal experience, notes higher than an A with or without the octave lever (until you hit the palm keys) and lower than bottom D rely on a lot of adjustment cork/screws and levers that automate key closure and hance give you the prone areas.

Edited 17:35 15/01/08

 

[Bobby G]

Apparently, a leak light may not detect all leaks, which is where the cigarette papers come in handy. By placing a strip of Rizla about 1/4" wide under the pad and pulling it out gently you should feel some pressure. This pressure or resistance should be equal all the way around the pad - if it's not, a little pressure on the cup where less resistance is felt should help it seal properly, although a little trial and error may be needed. It's helpful to place the thin end of a reed under the opposite side of the pad, this gives you enough play to get the adjustment made wihout risking bending the thing out of shape.

Good luck with your project horn, Redbottom 🙂

 

[RedBottom]

Thanks for that guys. I'm not sure I'll be starting yet awhile, but I'll let you know how I get on. I'm still trying to get hold of the Thorpe book, but at ?45, it's a bit much. I'll see if I can get it on an inter library loan from work.

 

[griff136]

the leak light I prefer to use is basically an old mobile phone charger with a meter of thin cable and a 12volt 4 watt car indicator bulb on the end of it.

I use it in a dark room, now windows and with the lights off.

I also use a feeler - cigarette papers - blue ones cut into a point with the glue strip removed.

 

[justin_chune]

There was a guy over on SOTW selling a couple he had made. He wanted very little for them. All he used was a couple of 12v power adaptors he no longer had a use for. He cut off the end connectors and soldered an auto bulb to the wires. A bit of a hassle when the bulb needs changed but it worked.

 

[griff136]

Justin Chune wrote:
He cut off the end connectors and soldered an auto bulb to the wires. A bit of a hassle when the bulb needs changed but it worked.

no hassle if like me you solder the bulb holder onto the wire and then fit heat shrink over the top. I can change a bulb in seconds.