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Saxophones Case refurbishment

I did this case renovation a while back. A few pictures posted here and there but nothing of the complete build.
Sometimes there are no options for a aftermarket replacement case. So this is what happens when you try to restore what you have. It’s very time consuming but in this case (pun intended )worth it.

This is a case to a 1933-ish H. Bettoney metal clarinet. Initial inspection it looked like it just needed a few spots of glue.

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I’ve never done a complete overhaul of a case before. Previously I’ve had some success relining the interior of a flute case.

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I’ve had extensive formal training in cabinet furniture/Millworks. Originally the trade I planned my future for. Things change. This project is well within my comfort zone. I actually started to giggle because this was just stupid. I’m only doing this because I can and need the case. I already know this is going to be 50 hours of work.
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@Saxlicker nice job mending. Picking the best adhesive theses days is challenging. Especially when you’re trying to mend a old material that may have some vintage residual. Not always easily prepared or cleaned off.
Lots of options at the hardware can get confusing not to mention expense. Hi-Tack you used seems like a old school trusty’s go to glue. Can be acquired here in the states from Internet purchase. I don’t think it’s available at a local hardware store.
You’ll know in about eight months if it truly worked.
 
@Saxlicker nice job mending. Picking the best adhesive theses days is challenging. Especially when you’re trying to mend a old material that may have some vintage residual. Not always easily prepared or cleaned off.
Lots of options at the hardware can get confusing not to mention expense. Hi-Tack you used seems like a old school trusty’s go to glue. Can be acquired here in the states from Internet purchase. I don’t think it’s available at a local hardware store.
You’ll know in about eight months if it truly worked.
Yes I think you are right and thanks again.
There was the choice of that (which is essentially a thick version of PVA like glue that was recommended by the Lady in the craft shop who bonds fabrics to many different materials and thats the claim on the side of the bottle too.
But Hot Glue and Mod Podge were available.
So if it all comes unstuck (Literally)!!!! I will do it again with one of the others but importantly this didn't seep through to the fury side and is looking good at the moment.
 
I've just put a vintage Weltklang alto case in the "off to the tip" pile. Not worth saving... the Yany Super Pennsylvania came in it... undamaged.
In 2011, I purchased a well abused early 1950's Beaugnier Vito bari sax, an ex-high school instrument that was very abused, repaired many times, then withdrawn from service and stored for a long time in perhaps a dank moist, unconditioned cellar or storage. But for $315 US shipping included, I was elated, my first bari. (I'll do a story on my restoring it later when I get a chance.)

The case was well tattered, a bit more than I would want to repair. My wife objected to it 😵 for its smell everytime I opened the case. I made sure she saw me carry it off to the dumpster behind our backyard. 😉 (I found a Chinese cloth covered hard foam zippered case like the new bargain bari's (Medini, etc.) come with, on clearance, which sufficed.)

I use a Mac/iPhone and I'm of the opinion that Apple has made changes recently to how predictive text/auto-correct work as i've suddenly had a spate of the weirdest things which, as ever, I only notice after I've hit 'post'....
I've been learning Spanish even in my older age (we have a large Hispanic community in our small city). Wait until your cellular autocorrect is set to one language and you are texting in another in Android. The results can be humorous and sometimes downright embarrassing. :doh:

Maybe a nice little note like. Played by Benny Goodman :rofl:
Or, an engraving on the hinges or latch with, "A.J.A" (for Arthur Jacob Arshawsky - AKA "Artie Shaw"). :mrcool

Wow, that was a fantastic restoration job, complete rebuild of that case, @PigSquealer ! :thumb:
 
@PigSquealer Just read this thread in one go, amazing job, I can see why paying to get this done isn’t really viable! Such a lot of work, I can’t imagine the time (and mistakes) it would take without your background and experience!
 
Yes, that is correct, @jaz9090 , the difference between a professional and a "do it yourself-er" is practice. I've watched a professional, they can do the work much more quickly than you or I could, because of all that practice. Musicians overall, I would think most could make good technicians because of their attention to details. (Perhaps we should call amateur musicians, "do it yourself musicians?" :rofl: )

Some time ago, the electric fuel pump went out on my 1992 Dodge Caravan mini-van. It took me several hours to raise the vehicle, disconnect all the wiring and hoses, drop the tank, unbolt the old pump, install the new pump, then raise in place, fasten, tighten, connect, etc.

Replacement was a McMaster's brand pump, which I learned later from various autoparts employees, it was a bad brand of pump. Fortunately, Autozone had a lifetime warranty on the pump. I ended up replacing that pump 4 times! Each one would work a couple weeks, then fail. I'd drop the tank, return the defective one for a new one at no extra cost.

Later, I learned that for certain models of vehicles made or imported to US, one is better off just paying the additional couple hundred quid and getting the original equipment manufacturer's part. No one makes a decent replacement anymore.

By the 4th time, I got to where I could drop that tank in less than 40 minutes! Now I understood how the pros could do it so quickly. They've been through the ropes enough, they just know how to tackle it to get the job done.
 
There is a plumbing contractor in our small town who has a slogan on the back of his tool truck, "We fix your husband's plumbing repairs."
 
Sometimes the professionals are not so professional. I like plumbing and also dealing with fire. More than once I've been asked if I could do a critical moment myself. To install a temperature sensor in a diving tube on a boiler and connect it to a wood pellet burner. They didn't reduce the invoice. The invoice amount included launch of the burner. DIY jobs can be advanced as well.
 
Reviewing the interior it doesn’t look bad. No smell. It’s worthy of attempting to repair.
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I blew out the interior with compressed air. Then vacuumed. Afterwords I gave it a shampoo with woolite fabric upholstery cleaner. I’ve used this product on other cases with reasonable success.
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After cleaning. It doesn’t always remove all the stains. Although it is fresh clean and sanitary.
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With everything cleaned it’s time to address a few bits of loose fabric. I trimmed up all the loose edges and reattached with hotmelt glue. Work quickly !
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The bottom area had a undesirable up-curl. I heated this with a hairdryer until it would lay flat on the workbench. Heat applied to backside.
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Again using the hotmelt glue. With the part in position i tacked down one end.
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With a hairdryer I preheated this area a little bit. Just enough so when the glue hits the surface it doesn’t rapidly cool. Glue-picture-place in 20 seconds !
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Interior done it’s time to think about the exterior patch.
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The exterior shell is made out of polyester. I could have made some patches but I didn’t have any sheet polyester on hand. So I’m using the next best alternative. I’ve had this new $15 /£12 can laying around awhile. This is a lightweight polyester filler used for automotive dent repair. The product sticks well to just about anything but polypropylene.
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First I knock down the areas below level. Undercut the edges so the material will be under the joint.
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I cleaned the duct tape adhesive off with some lighter fluid. Goo-gone will also work. Degreased everything including the edges with isopropyl alcohol. take notice of the black void in the foam. That’s the backside of the interior cubbyhole. I’m guessing that’s a good sign for additional support backside.
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The tube of Hardner taped to the outside of the can is facing upwards. Used as is you will get liquid juice out of the tube. It should come out the consistency of toothpaste. Knead the tube well !!!
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Stir the pot !
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Not pictured. I’ve taped off all the surrounding metal edges with masking tape.

How much ??? Guess😉 How much Hardner? 2%. If you don’t have enough it will not cure. Too much and it will set off before you get done mixing it. I’m mixing on a stiff bit of cardboard from a cereal box. I have selected a 2 inch polypropylene spreader. These are made specifically for this task. Immediate cleanup is mandatory if you intend to reuse them.
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A bit too much Hardner. It’s been many years since I’ve used this material. Ambient temperature was 90°f / 32°c. That makes a difference also. Something to consider in cold weather too….add more !
Still I was able to get it onto the case. The moment it started to cure I stopped spreading. Set up in less the 4 minutes! Working time should be closer to 10 minutes ! No big deal has it will take several applications. Don’t fill everything at one time.
As soon as the material was on I removed the tape. Cleaned the tools.
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Yeah it gets hot. 68°c / 154°f
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After 20 minutes of cure time I was able to knock down the surfaces. 60 grit sandpaper.
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I pressed as hard as I could everywhere with my thumb. This area wasn’t to my liking so I knocked it out. It’s where the foot is going so I wanted it to have a little more heft.
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Fill-shape repeat.
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