Tech/maintenance My new "DIY" pads...

But, actually, it's a cheap, mass-produced electrical connection jig... And a lot of work went into making it safe and reliable and easy to add and use
the plug is a good analogy I think (except more at stake if you install yourself incorrectly)

I haven’t seen any significant innovations to make it safer apart from the moulded plug that rules out most DIY.

Where there has been innovation related is with inline cable connection in the form of Wago connectors..

But in either case they still fall down if the user doesn’t have the correct tools, mainly a wire stripper. If I look at stuff where I couldn’t find the wire stripper and instead used a knife to strip insulation the results are often less safe.
 
True about wago. But plug safety kinda peeked with the British 3 pin, shuttered sockets etc. Or over reached according to the rest of the world.

And, sure there's always a user compliance threshold. But that can be pushed down with good design and/or helper tools...
... Like wire strippers.
The difference in who will screwup between a knife, old school "pliers with sharp edges" and modern, calibrated gadgets...
 
Arguably, a better example is this post where I mentioned Spring hooks / prodders. And got dumped on with DIY examples... But for the amateur, the spring hook solves a pile of problems experienced bodgers work through without thinking

Post in thread 'Buescher True Tone 1926 C melody sax possible to play without repad?' Saxophones - Buescher True Tone 1926 C melody sax possible to play without repad?
 
the plug is a good analogy I think (except more at stake if you install yourself incorrectly)

I haven’t seen any significant innovations to make it safer apart from the moulded plug that rules out most DIY.

Where there has been innovation related is with inline cable connection in the form of Wago connectors..

But in either case they still fall down if the user doesn’t have the correct tools, mainly a wire stripper. If I look at stuff where I couldn’t find the wire stripper and instead used a knife to strip insulation the results are often less safe.
'You install yourself incorrectly' - image of person plugged into a socket with sparks.
'moulded plug rules out DIY' - except for when it fails cutting it off to replace it.
'wire stripper ...... used a knife....less safe...' - I've done it with my teeth while standing on a ladder and then suddenly wondering if I had switched off first.
 
Sorry, rambling. My point is. You are creative and innovative - maybe apply some of that to how the pads are installed? Is there a jig or tool that could be 3D printed or something as well as instructions etc.
To install the pad you just need to install the self-adhesive magnet in the centre of a clean key cup.
The pad is 1mm smaller diameter than the cup's inner diameter, leaving a 0.5mm gap all the way around the pad once installed so that it can tilt for self-levelling.

A 0.25-0.3mm thick brass strip, 5-6mm wide, is formed into a circle to fit snug around the inside of the key cup rim, acting as a guide to ensure the complete pad, with magnet attached, stays centred when pushed inside the brass shim guide. This is the only "jig or tool" needed.
The backing paper is removed from the magnet's 3M adhesive and the pad assembly is pushed into the key cup to secure. The adhesive will fully cure in 72hrs.

The brass shim guides, in different sizes for a range of cup circumferences, can be easily made from thin brass sheet cut with scissors. Otherwise, just normal hand tools are needed.
The height adjustment of each pad is made using M3 shim washers 5mm diameter in 0.1; 0.2; 0.3; 0.5mm thicknesses. Height adjustment is fiddly due to the tiny washers but it is entirely mechanical with no worries about heating shellac or glue or other adjustment methods associated with traditional pads.
 
So your DIY kit includes A 0.25-0.3mm thick brass strip to be cut to length?
And, maybe, tweezers?

Anyway I can't judge much from your text.
I would bet 50:50 that someone observing you fit the pads might spot something... It's hard to be objective about ones own skills.
 
Hi Ho...

20250222_155036.webp
 
david, if i am to fit them myself i would require a full kit, and i imagine others would too. in my mind a full kit would comprise all necessary pads and magnets and adhesives/fixings and shims as required, althoughi"m not very clear about them. it's a matter of taste i dare say, but i find the indeterminacy of leather and felt and bug secretions rather less intimidating than the absolutes of engineering.
 
Hi Peter, I will be starting on my stencil of a "Standard" SML alto some time soon. There's no way to know if this is the same as your SML model. Only by stripping down your horn and measuring the cup internal diameters will we know for sure.
you can tell me the number. it's a rock-solid bet that i have one similar.
 
Serial number 7965 dates it to 1949 I believe... As here...


I really do need to do some written or video instructions showing: E.g. 1/ Dismantle, remove old pads, clean, abrade, and re-clean cup inners. 2/ Check for any necessary repairs and carry these out. 3/Level tone holes. 4/ Install pads in cups using self adhesive magnets and centering shims. 5/ Reassemble, re-checking for any dislodged felts/corks/springs/etc. 6/Adjust and regulate using shim washers on pad screws. 7/ Play test, when happy remove each pad and thread lock all nuts.

It was the mechanical nature of screws for height adjustment and self-levelling for ease that I set out to achieve in place of the mystical melting magic of shellac or hot glue.

I am currently working on removing the tiny shims from the equation using tiny hank rivet bushes. Infinite height adjustment by turning the screw in the pad. Once regulated, wicking or adjustable threadlocker secures the pad in place. This will only be used with the "backing disc bare centre as reflector" pads. Domed reflector pads will still need the screw/shims/nut installation. The latter works perfectly. The former is in sample testing in the coming weeks to find the best threaded hank bush.
 
I think that the customer who had your pads is me, Alistair fitted them before Christmas and I have been working with them since. If you would like to message me I will give you my thoughts. Regards. Ian
Update:

Ian has been benefitting from my volunteered "factory support" after we made contact.
The technician, who I had sat down with a year or more ago to advise how my pads are installed, had made a few mistakes.
I've approached this pragmatically, trying to rule out as many of these issues so that another tech, or DIY installer indeed, is somewhat protected by my further revisions:

YAS-62:
All good, but no threadlocker on any of the small pad screws and nuts. Some were coming loose.
This happened with the original prototype passarounds and I contacted Loctite for a suitable threadlocker. I then applied their recommended Loctite 243 to the Jupiter prototype nuts and this stopped any loosening as well as encapsulating the BZP steel screw for secondary corrosion protection. Ian will use this threadlocker to secure his nuts.
REMEDY: Once all pads have been height adjusted and the horn regulated, threadlock the pad nuts in place. Loctite 290 wicking threadlocker can also be used without the need for disassembly of pads.

MkVI tenor:
1/ Oddly, all key cups were installed angled steeply forward so that the front of a closed cup was below the tonehole line and the rear above it. This caused the bottom stack D key a particular problem. Ian described a "click or ding" as he released the D key.
Putting two and two together I remotely worked out this had been caused by the tech's odd key cup angle. Ian's DIY skills allowed him to adjust the lower stack keys so that the cup faces were largely parallel to their tone holes and the issue went away.
The pads had been recessed too deeply in the cups without enough height adjustment.

This is what Ian sent me:

View: https://youtu.be/Kl-HJjM8NVI

...and after his adjustment, with the backing disc just showing under the cup edge... perfect!...

66b79c69-5c1a-41a7-95ad-f323ccd3b356.webp


REMEDY: Install keys correctly with cups roughly parallel to tone holes.

2/ One palm key magnet had been glued in off-centre to its key cup. This caused the pad's backing disc to hit the cup edge so it couldn't self-level correctly. I'd previously noticed myself that although a 0.25mm thin brass shim is used around the cup edge to ensure proper centering, if the shim was removed before the adhesive had set the magnet might slide if the cup wasn't horizontal.

15565c57-cdad-4312-a5eb-cc2ebf69721f.webp


REMEDY: Check magnets are centered in cups. NB. Magnets now have 3M self-adhesive, instant grab, backing so no sliding is possible.

3/ One nylon shim washer had been incorrectly placed adjacent to the magnet's countersunk socket. The diameter of the washer interfered with the magnet causing the pad not to self-level. The washer was refitted away from the magnet and the issue was resolved.
REMEDY: Check nothing interferes with the magnet's socket. NB. The nylon washers have since been replaced by smaller diameter stainless washers which don't interfere wherever placed.

4/ A rusty screw, as under (rust migrated to stainless washer). New screw and washer sent to Ian.

a765a9b5-c34d-4a42-a670-aa14a63495bb.webp


The screws have to be steel for magnetic attraction. BZP coated. The lack of threadlocker hasn't protected the screw from moisture in a player's breath.

Installed with blue threadlocker 243 it should look like this after prolonged use. Note the threadlocker wicks through the nut to protect the "dry" side of the pad too:

a9586b8e-374d-4fea-be80-27347d34a0e8.webp

bac99439-3fd4-4d9e-9e83-39ca73271ba3.webp


REMEDY: Apply threadlocker per YAS-62 above. Rust may still be an issue, as with other steel parts (springs, pivot screws, rods, etc). Replacement screws available if needed.
NB. I double checked all pad screws (protected by Loctite 243 as shown above) on the well used Jupiter prototype and all were clean and rust free.

Ian's general comments were the low notes are easier and his horns sound better than with the previous, fairly new, Pisoni pads. Overall he's pleased with my system but not the installation.
He preferred my offer of help to travelling a long distance back to the retailer's tech to sort the various issues. He will not post his horns.

This "end user" feedback is invaluable in devising a (better) training regime for techs and DIY'ers alike, as well as testing an owner's view of the pads, and overcoming the installation issues.

In summary, I am happy that the system works perfectly IF installed correctly.
It does worry me that, so far, I'm the only one who can install them with no issues but I accept entirely that I need to do more to ensure, as best as I can, that others can follow instructions which are good enough to allow them to do the same.
 
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hello david, i think you ought to reconsider the 'DIY' title in association with your pads. it seems like a truly technical operation to me, deserving of professional care - and going by your example here 'professional' is not good enough; competent would be nice.
 
hello david, i think you ought to reconsider the 'DIY' title in association with your pads. it seems like a truly technical operation to me, deserving of professional care - and going by your example here 'professional' is not good enough; competent would be nice.
The "" is warning enough to me, but I like the DIY as a goal. Also there are enough people who see traditional padding as a DIY activity. So I don't see much harm in this title.
 

Similar threads... or are they? Maybe not but they could be worth reading anyway 😀

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