I first had Chateau Musar in my 20s, and it was astonishingly good. I wasn't actually that surprised, though, as a few years earlier, at university, I knew a young Lebanese woman. She was from an upper middle class family, and i asked her how things were there at the height of the troubles there. She said that for people with money it was all still OK, they lived in big houses up in the hills, and they all had their own vineyards, which had that slopey stony ground perfect for growing grapes. She told me that the closest they'd ever come to the war was a stray shell landing among their grapes.