Tools required

[phil_edwards]

Hi, having collected the 'project' off Saxlicker a while ago I'm thinking now about what tools might be required to do an overhaul and a bit of re-soldering. Particularly the soldering, as that's what I don't have any tools for as yet.

Link to the project - http://www.breakfastroom.co.uk/index.cgi?fid=03&topic_id=1185121953

michael/saxismyaxe recently posted "a micro torch is all that is required to solder it back" in response to a Q about a post coming off.

Any links to what is meant by a micro torch, please?

regards, Phil

 

[sharon]

Hi Phil, strangely enough I think this is a tool that I sold on eBay. My husband had it scudding around the house and at the time said it was used for metal brazing and hobbies i.e. model railways etc.

I've tried looking it up but I've archived the sale and it's too far back to retrieve. Try looking up under "blow torch" or "brazing tool" on eBay and I think you might get something up. I may be wrong but if so someone more experienced may have an idea.

Sharon

 

[spike]

Check out Blazer Micro Torch, it's a self igniting (piezo) butane torch, my tech uses something similar not sure if it's a Blazer, - Griff will have a tip for you when he drops by. gruss - spike

 

[griff136]

Hi Phil,

you can buy a small bernz o matic torch from B & Q (around ?25 )it takes the butane gas in the green can. It fills like a cigarette lighter I think Curt at www.musicmedic.com sells the blazer torch.

I have both - one i keep in the workshop and the other in my travelling kit.

If you do intend soldering may I suggest the "stay brite" solder kit - a foot of solder and liquid flux in an eye drop dispenser - I use this stuff the solder stays bright rather than go dark grey (available from HS Walsh and sons in Beckenham Kent - they do have a web site too. The flux needs to be washed off afterwards - I use an old toothbrush and soapy water.

 

[phil_edwards]

Thanks for the replies, I'll look up those suggestions.

regards, Phil

 

[saxismyaxe]

Hi Phil,

Griff and others have guided you in the right direction. Being located in the U.S. as I am, I can list many Stateside retailers and products. However you are better served by those suggesting sources in the U.K. unless you want to mail order from overseas.

Best of luck.

 

[phil_edwards]

Thanks Michael, much appreciated. I'll let you know what I get and more importantly how I get on with it.

regards, Phil

 

[Saxlicker]

Hi Phil,
Are you gonna practise on the basket case first? :?
Also wondering if the silver finish vs the lacquered one would require slightly different temperatures or tecniques?
Hows the rest of it going?

 

[griff136]

Saxlicker wrote:
Hi Phil,
Are you gonna practise on the basket case first? :?
Also wondering if the silver finish vs the lacquered one would require slightly different temperatures or tecniques?
Hows the rest of it going?

More care has to be taken when soldering lacquered instruments as some lacquers burn real easy at around the temperature of the solder melting - which can be a bummer.

The lacquer on newer instruments particularly yamahas and yanagisawas tends to be more resistant to heat.

The secret of a good solder job as with any job IMHO is good preparation. get both surfaces really clean and flux well.

when soldering I prefer to clean, flux the cut a small piece of solder, for a key post , say a few mm long- 5 maybe - and then place the solder against the foot of the post and then apply the heat. this method you can tell when is done as the solder flows.

if you apply the heat first and then bring the solder to the post you can find that you've heated too much and the lacxquer has burned or you have too much solder and therefore more has to be removed to get the job looking its best.

another method is to buy ribbon solder - really thin stuff and then coil it up and place in between the two items.

or you could "tin" both parts ie heat and apply a small amouth of solder to both then place together, flux and heat.


always make sure as well that you have the items that need to be soldered kept firmly in position. as well as other adjacent soldered items as these will come apart.

I wash the area on completion to neutralise the flux using a toothbrush and mild soapy water.

 

[griff136]

If there are keys with cork/felt or pads nearby then these need to be removed otherwise they will get burnt.

 

[phil_edwards]

Saxlicker wrote:
Hi Phil,
Are you gonna practise on the basket case first? :?
Also wondering if the silver finish vs the lacquered one would require slightly different temperatures or tecniques?
Hows the rest of it going?

How's the rest of it going??? Nice one :laugh:

I've looked it it, let's say that for now. :whistle:

regards, Phil

 

[phil_edwards]

Griff, many thanks for the info, much appreciated. The point made by saxlicker is a good one. I have a silver 'basket case' - how much does it differ between working (soldering) that to a laquered one?

regards, Phil

 

[griff136]

Hi Phil, no difference in real terms but there does come a point where heat will bubble the plating but as long as you keep your flame moving gently over the items you need to solder then you should not have a problem - Its far easier to burn lacquer than it is to bubble the plating.

the only other point of difference to note is that on a lacquer instrument even if the flux gets on the lacquer the solder will flow onto it but it does not adhere to the lacquer. whit the silver plated instrument the solder will adhere.

what you can do to minimise this is to make sure any excess flux is wiped off before soldering.

if you havent done any soldering before i suggest maybe you practise using copper pipe and brass sheeting until you are happy with your technique.

good luck and keep us posted.