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Through the possession of an enthusiastic passion and tinkering mind, it was odds on that one day I would ?stretch myself? beyond my minor repair comfort zone.
I gig, with the tenor on average once a week and an additional 3 or 4 hours a week practise over the last 16 years.
Typically I?d always wait for a ?clank? or squeak that wasn?t there the day before, locate the missing felt or cork and replace it. Following this mammoth type of task I would then check for leaks (with a leak light not fag papers) particularly in that area and make further adjustments if necessary. This usually meant I?d find at least one other cork that was compressed beyond its original working tolerance and I?d either replace it or tweak a relevant adjustment screw.
For the pads that rest open against corks it?s tricky to be sure I haven?t effected the tuning. It?s great when you actually still have the original piece that fell off.
Anyway, about an hour later with everything appearing to seal and confidence that I haven?t made any adjustments that bear negative results I?d finish up with a quick polish in those hard to get at places, a spot of oil on the keys and some cork grease. This time spent usually happens less than twice a year per sax and has kept them from needing serious attention. Thats about the extent of my experience
When my tenor (YTS 875 main sax) was 5 years old it had some of the more susceptible pads replaced and has been back a few times since for similar jobs that are too risky for me. This tenor is now 16 years old and never been overhauled needless to say many pads are original. The Dr has recently suggested that I?ll need to make an appointment in about a year for that overhaul. I?m really happy with that! The quality of this thing to last so well.
However
This week I bought a YTS62 for ?650 because I CAN?T HELP IT! :whistle:
You would, wouldn't you???
It?s in great shape as far as the body and pad lives are concerned but upon its arrival, I sadistically wasn?t disappointed to find a few missing corks and poorly seating pads unless you have a grip like the Hulk.
Now (a day later) she?s pretty much there.
Though I could be happier with the A function.
Bb seals nicely with bis key and C operates with a full seal but playing an A requires more finger pressure to seal the same pad.
Any adjustment I make slightly opens a pad further up that closes when pressing the B. Any hints or is it one for the Dr?
I did do a neck recork. This is the first time!
With the confidence that I wasn?t going to be stuck with out a horn and knowing that I had the time to focus on not having any careless accidents damaging anything I followed The Dr?s (Steve Howard) instructions. It was still a little scary with that modelling knife and sand paper attack. But what do you know? I am pleased with the result and make a declaration that it is 100% functional.
The trimming at the tip and at the rear end of the cork could look more pleasant but the sanded cone shape, is for me as an amateur a revelation . I used a finer grade sand paper than his recommendation simply because its all I had. Things took a little longer this way but maybe avoided some pitfalls that he points out by doing so.
I did this job for the love and experience and thoroughly enjoyed it!
The cork was ?2.70 and the evostick was ?3.80 Steve takes little over 10 minutes to do one and that?s allowing the glue to go tacky.
It took me about an hour and a half so he can?t be doing it right surely? 😛
My verdict on the recork is in keeping with Steves advice:-
Unless you are really up for it, even with the luxury of time and a back up horn its better to pay your tech. In my case bung Mr Howard a ?5?r and have a chat while you spin your eyes around the interesting clutter of his work shop.
Next time its pads in the palm keys or similarly accessable!
I gig, with the tenor on average once a week and an additional 3 or 4 hours a week practise over the last 16 years.
Typically I?d always wait for a ?clank? or squeak that wasn?t there the day before, locate the missing felt or cork and replace it. Following this mammoth type of task I would then check for leaks (with a leak light not fag papers) particularly in that area and make further adjustments if necessary. This usually meant I?d find at least one other cork that was compressed beyond its original working tolerance and I?d either replace it or tweak a relevant adjustment screw.
For the pads that rest open against corks it?s tricky to be sure I haven?t effected the tuning. It?s great when you actually still have the original piece that fell off.
Anyway, about an hour later with everything appearing to seal and confidence that I haven?t made any adjustments that bear negative results I?d finish up with a quick polish in those hard to get at places, a spot of oil on the keys and some cork grease. This time spent usually happens less than twice a year per sax and has kept them from needing serious attention. Thats about the extent of my experience
When my tenor (YTS 875 main sax) was 5 years old it had some of the more susceptible pads replaced and has been back a few times since for similar jobs that are too risky for me. This tenor is now 16 years old and never been overhauled needless to say many pads are original. The Dr has recently suggested that I?ll need to make an appointment in about a year for that overhaul. I?m really happy with that! The quality of this thing to last so well.
However
This week I bought a YTS62 for ?650 because I CAN?T HELP IT! :whistle:
You would, wouldn't you???
It?s in great shape as far as the body and pad lives are concerned but upon its arrival, I sadistically wasn?t disappointed to find a few missing corks and poorly seating pads unless you have a grip like the Hulk.
Now (a day later) she?s pretty much there.
Though I could be happier with the A function.
Bb seals nicely with bis key and C operates with a full seal but playing an A requires more finger pressure to seal the same pad.
Any adjustment I make slightly opens a pad further up that closes when pressing the B. Any hints or is it one for the Dr?
I did do a neck recork. This is the first time!
With the confidence that I wasn?t going to be stuck with out a horn and knowing that I had the time to focus on not having any careless accidents damaging anything I followed The Dr?s (Steve Howard) instructions. It was still a little scary with that modelling knife and sand paper attack. But what do you know? I am pleased with the result and make a declaration that it is 100% functional.
The trimming at the tip and at the rear end of the cork could look more pleasant but the sanded cone shape, is for me as an amateur a revelation . I used a finer grade sand paper than his recommendation simply because its all I had. Things took a little longer this way but maybe avoided some pitfalls that he points out by doing so.
I did this job for the love and experience and thoroughly enjoyed it!
The cork was ?2.70 and the evostick was ?3.80 Steve takes little over 10 minutes to do one and that?s allowing the glue to go tacky.
It took me about an hour and a half so he can?t be doing it right surely? 😛
My verdict on the recork is in keeping with Steves advice:-
Unless you are really up for it, even with the luxury of time and a back up horn its better to pay your tech. In my case bung Mr Howard a ?5?r and have a chat while you spin your eyes around the interesting clutter of his work shop.
Next time its pads in the palm keys or similarly accessable!
