Tech/maintenance Super glued pads - a cry for help

[Jive Dadson]

Hello, folks. Many of you may know me from that other site.

A while back, I bought a nice, shiny purple logo Yts-32 from a guy in Japan. It arrived unplayable due to leaks. No prob, I think. I'll fix 'er right up. Wrong again.

The pads are glued in with ca glue. Lots of it, filling the cups. It is very hard and thick. I have scraped out a couple of pad cups. It was a long, tedious drudge. Acetone barely softens the surface.

Is there a better way?

 

[Tuppertn]

There is such a thing as CA debonder. I've used it in small amounts when working with model airplanes. It sounds like you'll need quite a bit of it for that job though.

Something like this, maybe?

Superglue Remover

 

[turf3]

There is such a thing as CA debonder. I've used it in small amounts when working with model airplanes. It sounds like you'll need quite a bit of it for that job though.

Something like this, maybe?

Superglue Remover

Probably just acetone.

Did you try heat? Are these nickel plated keys, which you can get pretty hot without discoloration? Is it all of them?

 

[Jive Dadson]

The keys are lacquered. Yts-32, not 23. It is basically a yts-52 for the Japanese market. I wish I knew what kind of lacquer it is.
Heat does nothing to the glue. It is old and very hard.

 

[Tuppertn]

Probably just acetone.

It isn't...or at least not only acetone as it's skin-safe. It's a fairly thick gel with a slimey feel to it. Takes about 15 minutes to work and doesn't evaporate.

Acetone will eventually work. It just takes a while to soak in.

 

[LostCircuits]

Freeze it, super glue pops right up when you get to -15-20 C

If you can find a freeze spray (even a dust-off) you can chill the cup faster than the cold transfers to the glue and the difference in thermal expansion will break most of the adhesion without making a mess, likewise if you have the entire cup frozen and rapidly heat up the metal the glue will fall out.

 

[turf3]

It isn't...or at least not only acetone as it's skin-safe. It's a fairly thick gel with a slimey feel to it. Takes about 15 minutes to work and doesn't evaporate.

Acetone will eventually work. It just takes a while to soak in.

Well, with lacquered keys I'd be concerned about acetone. I suppose Yamaha used some kind of epoxy or urethane clear coat, not nitrocellulose, but still, extended exposure to acetone might be hard on the key finish.