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Tech/maintenance Super 20 octave mechanism problem

Jimmymack

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The octave mechanism on my series 3 Super 20 isn’t working. The main problem seems to be on the neck which doesn’t want to close fully. There seems to be a screw missing on the link through the center of the dog bone connector which I have replaced, assuming it was missing, but that doesn’t really help. The way it operates is beyond my understanding and I’m not really the most technically competent person at the best of times.

I know the answer is to take it the shop assuming I can find a sufficiently knowledgeable tech, I’ve seen Matt Storhers video where he outlines the difficulties, much good it did me, but just wondered if anybody has any insight into this.

Thanks
 
Since it's not a Selmer or Yamaha, how the tech will do this is to stare at it, work it through its various permutations, and then figure out what's wrong. Octave mechanisms that aren't Selmer or Yamaha are all so variable that there's no standardized advice other than the above - stare at it, move it through its various states, and figure out what's wrong.
 
I doubt that the difficulty will be in finding a sufficiently knowledgeable tech - the difficulty will be finding someone who won't immediately tell you "this horn is obsolete, they all play out of tune, they're no good, you need to let me sell you this recent Far Eastern Selmer copy instead".
 
I think in this case the only insight I can offer is that the S20 octave mech is deceptively complex - and a lack of understanding precisely how it works coupled with sketchy technical abilities is a sure-fire recipe for tears.
Its operating principle is pretty simple, but the way in which it does it is where the difficulties lie. When it's in good shape it's a very good mech - so treat it to some professional attention.
 
Thanks, taking a closer look told me that I needed somebody who knew what they are doing but you can live in hope.
You can at least take some credit that you looked and tried to figure it out. No shame in that at all - but vintage octave mechs are sometimes challenging even for seasoned pros.
 
I think in this case the only insight I can offer is that the S20 octave mech is deceptively complex - and a lack of understanding precisely how it works coupled with sketchy technical abilities is a sure-fire recipe for tears.
Even with its complications, the issue usually boils down to a sticking body octave pad that is cured by replacing it with a cork one. Usually.
 
Even with its complications, the issue usually boils down to a sticking body octave pad that is cured by replacing it with a cork one. Usually.
Quick diagnostic here, is to wrap the pad with a single layer of Saran wrap. (Actually, both vent pads on my bassax are still this way, because I've been too busy (*** means "lazy"***) to change them out.)
 

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