Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

turf3 · Wednesday at 2:49 PM

I dig that brace in post 1099. Just that extra little bit of style, that really didn't cost much at all.

My humble suggestion on neck brace:

1) If it were me, I'd get the horn all playing again before doing anything with the neck brace.
2) Because, then you can consider whether you want to pull-up that neck some.
3) And then, my suggestion would be not to simply reproduce what was there, but to make sure to tie the bottom of the brace (the end furthest away from the hole) into the tenon. I see too many photos of necks where the brace stops short of the tenon (like, almost all of them are made this way), so the first time it takes a shot, it's going to crimp that unreinforced sheet metal between the end of the brace and the tenon. You can do this easily by simply extending the brace a bit to have an end that extends over the tenon ferrule. Here's what I did to my bass sax, which came with no brace whatsoever, not even any marks on the neck. You can see that I overlapped the brace onto the tenon ferrule.

mark_addy · Wednesday at 9:18 PM

turf3 said:
I dig that brace in post 1099. Just that extra little bit of style, that really didn't cost much at all.

My humble suggestion on neck brace:

1) If it were me, I'd get the horn all playing again before doing anything with the neck brace.
2) Because, then you can consider whether you want to pull-up that neck some.
3) And then, my suggestion would be not to simply reproduce what was there, but to make sure to tie the bottom of the brace (the end furthest away from the hole) into the tenon. I see too many photos of necks where the brace stops short of the tenon (like, almost all of them are made this way), so the first time it takes a shot, it's going to crimp that unreinforced sheet metal between the end of the brace and the tenon. You can do this easily by simply extending the brace a bit to have an end that extends over the tenon ferrule. Here's what I did to my bass sax, which came with no brace whatsoever, not even any marks on the neck. You can see that I overlapped the brace onto the tenon ferrule.

View attachment 37825

I really like that. If I were making one, I would be tempted to overdo it and end up with a gothic shelf bracket : https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1040997342

PigSquealer · Thursday at 5:52 AM

turf3 said:
I dig that brace in post 1099. Just that extra little bit of style, that really didn't cost much at all.

My humble suggestion on neck brace:

1) If it were me, I'd get the horn all playing again before doing anything with the neck brace.
2) Because, then you can consider whether you want to pull-up that neck some.
3) And then, my suggestion would be not to simply reproduce what was there, but to make sure to tie the bottom of the brace (the end furthest away from the hole) into the tenon. I see too many photos of necks where the brace stops short of the tenon (like, almost all of them are made this way), so the first time it takes a shot, it's going to crimp that unreinforced sheet metal between the end of the brace and the tenon. You can do this easily by simply extending the brace a bit to have an end that extends over the tenon ferrule. Here's what I did to my bass sax, which came with no brace whatsoever, not even any marks on the neck. You can see that I overlapped the brace onto the tenon ferrule.

View attachment 37825

Post #1099 ??? Maybe another ??
Still…shared information is worthy.

Thanks for the sage advice and example picture of your bass crook . Yeah, I agree with you here. It’s a minor upgrade but the owner and I have agreed to keep the brace original as produced.

PigSquealer · Thursday at 6:57 AM

Below. Hard to see in this picture view from post #1088. ( @turf3 made valid observation ( minor mistake on quoting post number, a honest mistake.) Small stuff..)

Still his observation and constructive comments to the needs of more tenor crook support are very valid !
@turf3 I thank you for stepping up. Your suggestion could help another tech on another brand / maker. Hopefully they see these pictures and learn how to sand a neck cork properly 😤…. A major contributor to crook pull-down 😕

PigSquealer · Thursday at 7:12 AM

mark_addy said:
I really like that. If I were making one, I would be tempted to overdo it and end up with a gothic shelf bracket : https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1040997342

It’s not Saint Charles Bridge or London Bridge. It’s a support on a crook to keep some poor pissed Yank from bending it….on the way back to his tent in the rain playing “Dirty Old Town” during a motorbike holiday 🤣.

PigSquealer · Thursday at 7:22 AM

To the DIY with a Knackered crook. Please, when you’re not completely pissed, do achieve proper cork sanding / fitting skills !
This visible shoulder below should not be there !!!! 🤨🤨 A precursor to many preventable misfortunes.

PigSquealer · Thursday at 3:10 PM

Six hours of dent and straightening work done. It been challenging not to disturb the patina. The golfball look is gone.
Before

After

turf3 · Thursday at 3:12 PM

PigSquealer said:
Post #1099 ??? Maybe another ??
Still…shared information is worthy.

Thanks for the sage advice and example picture of your bass crook . Yeah, I agree with you here. It’s a minor upgrade but the owner and I have agreed to keep the brace original as produced.

I'm sorry, I wrote "brace" but I was referring to the back side key guard, in post 1099.

turf3 · Thursday at 3:13 PM

PigSquealer said:
Below. Hard to see in this picture view from post #1088. ( @turf3 made valid observation ( minor mistake on quoting post number, a honest mistake.) Small stuff..)
View attachment 37841

Still his observation and constructive comments to the needs of more tenor crook support are very valid !
@turf3 I thank you for stepping up. Your suggestion could help another tech on another brand / maker. Hopefully they see these pictures and learn how to sand a neck cork properly 😤…. A major contributor to crook pull-down 😕
View attachment 37842

View attachment 37843

Look at that! They did it right from the beginning! Now all you have to do is cut out a new piece of brass, and bob's your uncle.

turf3 · Thursday at 3:16 PM

That's one of the biggest cork ridges I've ever seen.

I can't understand why so many people seem to think that the position of a ridge on the neck cork is something handed down on a stone tablet from the mountain. The concept that the cork is a consumable item that you adjust seems to elude many. "Oh, this horn doesn't play in tune, it's flat, because I can't push the mouthpiece past the ridge on the cork." REALLY?

PigSquealer · Thursday at 3:37 PM

The tenor had fallen over a few times over the last 90 years. The body had a few bends in different directions.
One fall to left pushed the bell guard in at body mount point. Another fall forward bent the bell rim as seen in above post, and pushed the bell brace into the body.

Another small knock on top pillar by receiver. Solder has cracked too.

All good now.

During the process I removed the octave vent. Also the wire guard on Eb dislodged. This happens sometimes when you’re straightening a pretzel.

turf3 · Thursday at 3:43 PM

That thing has really been to the wars.

PigSquealer · Thursday at 4:02 PM

turf3 said:
That's one of the biggest cork ridges I've ever seen.

I can't understand why so many people seem to think that the position of a ridge on the neck cork is something handed down on a stone tablet from the mountain. The concept that the cork is a consumable item that you adjust seems to elude many. "Oh, this horn doesn't play in tune, it's flat, because I can't push the mouthpiece past the ridge on the cork." REALLY?

I’m guessing there was a pocketknife and sandpaper shortage ?
What’s worse, too fat or too fat and too long ?

PigSquealer · Thursday at 4:06 PM

turf3 said:
Look at that! They did it right from the beginning! Now all you have to do is cut out a new piece of brass, and bob's your uncle.

Two bars of 1/8 x 2” x 6” C36000 uploaded to benchtop. Later my head top will run the shaping app.

turf3 · Thursday at 5:01 PM

Yeah, I'm still using a jewelers saw for that kind of job. And lots of blades.

PigSquealer · Thursday at 6:47 PM

turf3 said:
That thing has really been to the wars.

Actually it’s in decent condition. A few bangs and bumps is all. I don’t detect any loose potentially leaking sockets yet. The stacks came apart easily, no binding.

PigSquealer · Thursday at 7:06 PM

Service sequencing on this nice old tenor.
Dismantling
Dent repair
Remove springs
Post alignment, fit stacks, install new springs
Solder repair body, new brace on neck
Clean / wash
Neck fit & cork
Re-pad

92 years ago you could walk into a music store and buy a Imperial with case for $170 out the door.

Here’s the full catalog.

Martin Imperial Catalog - 1934 | Saxophone.org

Saxophone.org - created by saxophone players for saxophone players. Features an active saxophone forum, buy sell trade your sax, saxophone museum, sax teachers and more.

www.saxophone.org

Tuppertn · Thursday at 9:19 PM

PigSquealer said:
92 years ago you could walk into a music store and buy a Imperial with case for $170 out the door.

That's when the average household income was $3125.

Holy Smokes, Batman!

turf3 · Thursday at 9:24 PM

Tuppertn said:
Holy Smokes, Batman!

View attachment 37871

This is a lot of why old horns can be a real value.

So that 1934 horn is a $4200 horn in today's terms - but in the ensuing 90 years, it's become almost fully depreciated. If you can score that 1934 Martin ready to play for, let's say, $1500 - now compare that to what you can buy new for $1500. The new horn, $1500 out of your pocket, pays for advertising, corporate management, two three or four profit margins for the manufacturer, distributor, store, etc.; all of that before you even get to paying for materials and labor. Whereas the $1500 you pay for the Martin, pretty much 100% goes into saxophone, and repair labor. So you get something that's $4200 quality for $1500.