Pads drying out

[Pete Effamy]

Was it one of those nasty red ones??

yeah...

 

[gladsaxisme]

This is interesting what would make a pads saver next to useless

 

[Stephen Howard]

This is interesting what would make a pads saver next to useless

Two things: Being too small to fit snugly in the bore of the horn - and being completely made of non-absorbent fibres.

I keep a couple of cheapo padsavers by the lathe - they're the perfect size for cleaning out the spindle bore prior to inserting taper shank tooling. But that's all they're good for.

 

[gladsaxisme]

Two things: Being too small to fit snugly in the bore of the horn - and being completely made of non-absorbent fibres.

I keep a couple of cheapo padsavers by the lathe - they're the perfect size for cleaning out the spindle bore prior to inserting taper shank tooling. But that's all they're good for.

I wish I had a lathe

 

[gladsaxisme]

In truth I suppose it's quite difficult to tell how absorbent they might be just by looking at them or even feeling them polyester materials can be very deseptive these days

 

[Stephen Howard]

In truth I suppose it's quite difficult to tell how absorbent they might be just by looking at them or even feeling them polyester materials can be very deseptive these days

You don't need to look at them - just read the manufacturer's specs. A good one will be a blend of fibres...some for scouring and cleaning, some for wicking moisture.
The price is a good indication too.

 

[Vetinari]

@Stephen Howard , what make can you reccomend? Do they do one for a bari?

 

[Stephen Howard]

You'd be hard put to beat the HW Padsaver (the inventors of the thing).

There's no padsaver for a baritone - but a lot of players use a Hodge Swab for the top bow (pigtail). Looks like a giant sausage.

 

[pknight11]

The amount of moisture that a Hodge swab removes from a bari pigtail is amazing, and once you see it you will never fail to use one again!

 

[jbtsax]

To address the O.P.'s original question: Most "modern" pads come from the manufacturer with some type of waterproofing applied to the leather. This for the most part is effective in keeping moisture from going into the pad, but it also helps the leather to retain its underlying moisture. Pads drying out should not be a concern, but if it is, you can try one of the humidifiers that are commonly used in the cases of violins and wooden woodwinds to prevent the wood from drying out and cracking or coming apart at the seams.

My method of using the HW Pad saver is simple. After playing I run the pad saver in and out of the body 3 or 4 times. Then I pull it through my closed fingers. If it feels damp or moist, I store it on top of the saxophone when it is in the case. If it feels dry, it goes back inside.

I keep a few of the poor quality pad savers on hand in my shop to clean and polish the inside of the bore on saxophones undergoing a restoration. They work the best with the body removed from the bow so the small end can go in first. Among other things I have used Bar Keepers Friend on a moist pad saver under power using a cordless drill on low speed. My mentor uses 0000 steel wool wrapped around the pad saver for a similar effect. If there is too much solution used and the tool is spun too fast you can make a terrible mess with the product flying out of the toneholes all over you and the room. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[gladsaxisme]

How do you know this?

 

[gladsaxisme]

@jbtsax Being serious now thank for the advice on cleaning the inside I will probably be using most or all of them on stinky sax which I got round to stripping down last night so it's back to stinky for me

 

[jbtsax]

@jbtsax Being serious now thank for the advice on cleaning the inside I will probably be using most or all of them on stinky sax which I got round to stripping down last night so it's back to stinky for me

I forgot to mention that you can wrap a towel around the sax to keep the spinning pad saver from making a mess on your bench.

 

[Roy Harrison]

Hello, I have a question on dry pads and this thread seems the best to pick up from. I am just wondering if anyone can describe what effect dry pads have on the performance of the instrument please. I have a 26 year old Yanagisawa soprano and according to my leak light it seals, but sometimes when playing it fails to speak and I don't know if it's me or if this could be some issue with dry pads in some way. I don't know how to tell if the pads have dried out either. I don't have similar "speaking" issues with my much newer alto and tenor, but perhaps I am lacking in the practice of the finger precision needed for the soprano which I play much less. Any wisdom and advice will be very welcome please.

 

[jbtsax]

In my experience dried out pads become stiff and rigid. Leather has become one of the most common pad covering materials due to its flexibility and durability. You can often spot a dried out pad just by looking at it. A more accurate test I use is to press my fingertip into the leather to feel texture and give of the leather. I have found pads that are badly watermarked, that have leather that is still supple enough to seal toneholes well.

 

[SaxBoss]

In my experience dried out pads become stiff and rigid. Leather has become one of the most common pad covering materials due to its flexibility and durability. You can often spot a dried out pad just by looking at it. A more accurate test I use is to press my fingertip into the leather to feel texture and give of the leather. I have found pads that are badly watermarked, that have leather that is still supple enough to seal toneholes well.

Interesting.

Is there a cleaning solution/leather conditioning solution that you have used successfully without causing future sticking of the pads? We have talked about naphtha before?

 

[saxyjt]

There is an obvious way to rehydrate your pads. Water.

Gently apply water using some makeup cotton or cotton swabs for the small pads.

As demonstrated by Stephen in his blog here, you can use lighter fluid afterwards to prevent sticky pads.

Water won't harm your pads... Leather conditioner on the other hand would most likely turn your pads into messy sticky things as I learned myself a long time ago doing my very first attempt to save an old sax with very dry pads.

 

[Stephen Howard]

The problem with old pads is most likely to be that the felt core of the pad has become saturated with calcium carbonate (CC) - AKA scale...the white stuff you find in your kettle.
During playing the pad gets wet. Over time the waterproofing properties of the leather breaks down and moisture is absorbed into the pad. This can cause the pad to swell very slightly - and to shrink when it dries - but provided the pad's been well set it's not usually an issue.
With each wetting and drying cycle tiny deposits of CC are left behind, and over the years this builds up until a hard layer forms underneath the leather.. This reduces the flexibility of the pad - and it also reduces its ability to accommodate any expansion/contraction during playing...which leads to leaks forming as the pad takes on moisture.
The problem is exacerbated by uneven toneholes. If they're dead flat across the rim there's much less need for the pads to be flexible.

 

[Roy Harrison]

Thank you to everyone above for your education about dry pads and their effect on the instrument. I will investigate the issues of my soprano sax further.

Best wishes,

Roy

 

[jbtsax]

Interesting.

Is there a cleaning solution/leather conditioning solution that you have used successfully without causing future sticking of the pads? We have talked about naphtha before?

I have had good success using Dr's pad cleaning solution from Dr's Products. Unfortunately it is no longer available. It is a soapy solution that you mix with water somewhat like a shampoo with lanolin. I'm just about out so I may try shampoo. I'll report back when I do.