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Pads drying out

Stephen Howard

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This is interesting what would make a pads saver next to useless
Two things: Being too small to fit snugly in the bore of the horn - and being completely made of non-absorbent fibres.

I keep a couple of cheapo padsavers by the lathe - they're the perfect size for cleaning out the spindle bore prior to inserting taper shank tooling. But that's all they're good for.
 

gladsaxisme

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Two things: Being too small to fit snugly in the bore of the horn - and being completely made of non-absorbent fibres.

I keep a couple of cheapo padsavers by the lathe - they're the perfect size for cleaning out the spindle bore prior to inserting taper shank tooling. But that's all they're good for.
I wish I had a lathe
 

gladsaxisme

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In truth I suppose it's quite difficult to tell how absorbent they might be just by looking at them or even feeling them polyester materials can be very deseptive these days
 

Stephen Howard

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In truth I suppose it's quite difficult to tell how absorbent they might be just by looking at them or even feeling them polyester materials can be very deseptive these days
You don't need to look at them - just read the manufacturer's specs. A good one will be a blend of fibres...some for scouring and cleaning, some for wicking moisture.
The price is a good indication too.
 

Stephen Howard

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You'd be hard put to beat the HW Padsaver (the inventors of the thing).

There's no padsaver for a baritone - but a lot of players use a Hodge Swab for the top bow (pigtail). Looks like a giant sausage.
 

jbtsax

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To address the O.P.'s original question: Most "modern" pads come from the manufacturer with some type of waterproofing applied to the leather. This for the most part is effective in keeping moisture from going into the pad, but it also helps the leather to retain its underlying moisture. Pads drying out should not be a concern, but if it is, you can try one of the humidifiers that are commonly used in the cases of violins and wooden woodwinds to prevent the wood from drying out and cracking or coming apart at the seams.

My method of using the HW Pad saver is simple. After playing I run the pad saver in and out of the body 3 or 4 times. Then I pull it through my closed fingers. If it feels damp or moist, I store it on top of the saxophone when it is in the case. If it feels dry, it goes back inside.

I keep a few of the poor quality pad savers on hand in my shop to clean and polish the inside of the bore on saxophones undergoing a restoration. They work the best with the body removed from the bow so the small end can go in first. Among other things I have used Bar Keepers Friend on a moist pad saver under power using a cordless drill on low speed. My mentor uses 0000 steel wool wrapped around the pad saver for a similar effect. If there is too much solution used and the tool is spun too fast you can make a terrible mess with the product flying out of the toneholes all over you and the room. Don't ask me how I know this. :oops:
 

gladsaxisme

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@jbtsax Being serious now thank for the advice on cleaning the inside I will probably be using most or all of them on stinky sax which I got round to stripping down last night so it's back to stinky for me
 

jbtsax

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@jbtsax Being serious now thank for the advice on cleaning the inside I will probably be using most or all of them on stinky sax which I got round to stripping down last night so it's back to stinky for me
I forgot to mention that you can wrap a towel around the sax to keep the spinning pad saver from making a mess on your bench.
 
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