Saxophones Advice on Grassi Jade Roller?

[pydna]

Hi everyone,

I'm fairly new here so apologies for messaging out of the blue and hopefully I've posted this in the right spot. I've got an opportunity to purchase a Jade Roller, unfortunately it is in NSW (I'm in Victoria)so I can't play it first. Looks like the seller has had it serviced, I can see an invoice in photos stating several pads replaced etc. He is wanting $1295 AUD - that includes postage. FWIW, it does look to be in good condition. Buyer has told me it was made between 72 - 74.

I've looked through forum posts and can see they are the same as a Grassi Standard mkIII. However just curious how they compare to a later model Grassi (Leader, Professional 2000 etc). Also how they compare to the Yamaha YTS-21 (what I've currently got), not only sound but key ergonomics etc.

Obviously, if it is about the same as my 21 I won't bother pursuing it.

Many thanks

Brad

 

[skeller047]

(sigh) No two horns are the same, even if they are only one serial number apart. I have never played a Grassi, but my experience with Selmers and other makes leads me to make that statement.

If you are attracted to this instrument, and the price is fair, give it a try. If you don't like it, sell it on. I don't think that a Grassi instrument will be much like a Yamaha (not much is, except another Yamaha), so you may just have to take a chance. I am sure there are others with a much wider range of experience than I have who will give you some more details, but I doubt they will help much. You have to play the horn to know if it suits you.

 

[PiccoloPirate]

Hope this helps.
Read post #26

Saxophones - Grassi Saxophones

Foreword This guide was compiled mostly out of personal curiosity on these saxes and hopefully it will also serve to all those trying to identify the different models produced by this famous Italian manufacturer. It is somewhat peculiar that although Grassi was one of the largest producers of...

cafesaxophone.com

 

[JayeNM]

@pydna .....Gonna be richer-toned than a Yama 21, Grassi made nice sounding horns. Tgese are good models, pinky table sorta hal-modrern half-trad in its mechanics. Nice feel, it will feel a bit different than a 21.

I think Jades had inline stack keys.

So, it will be different enough from a modern adian horn to give you some nice diversity.

Price is quite fair, around $1000usd equivalent, yes tgat is ballpark of what I'd charge for a serviced one.

 

[Pete Thomas]

Price is quite fair, around $1000usd equivalent,

Currently lower than that so even fairer.

Also how they compare to the Yamaha YTS-21 (

I used to have a Grassi, different model though (Wonderful). For me it was more Selmer like than Yamaha.

 

[JayeNM]

yipes -apologies for multiple typos earlier....I wasn't even drinking, ans even had my pants on...

 

[Jimmymack]

Pleased to hera it. Yop can cirrect yhem kater you know.

 

[pydna]

Thanks everyone for your advice, yeah I think I'll go for it. He has offered to drop price, it was his grandfathers so it should have been well cared for.

I also had the choice of a fully serviced and repadded Amati Super Classic tenor. I have tested a super classic before the LH table wasn't as clunky as I thought it would be.

 

[pydna]

Hi

Just wanted to say thanks for your advice on the Grassi. I ended up getting it. It does sound smoother (not sure if that is the correct terminology).

The only thing I could complain about is the low C# cup arm touches it's guide, so it clunks when opening. Looks like if it is shifted a millimeter it will be spot on. I'll get someone to do that - too scared to do that myself. Also it seems to play slightly sharp, but on the plus it is consistent across the range, might try a different mouthpiece etc.

Oh and high F# is so easy on it. Low notes I need to give a bit more air too...but only a problem if other people are in the house 🙂

Thanks once again.

 

[JayeNM]

Hi

Just wanted to say thanks for your advice on the Grassi. I ended up getting it. It does sound smoother (not sure if that is the correct terminology).

The only thing I could complain about is the low C# cup arm touches it's guide, so it clunks when opening. Looks like if it is shifted a millimeter it will be spot on. I'll get someone to do that - too scared to do that myself. Also it seems to play slightly sharp, but on the plus it is consistent across the range, might try a different mouthpiece etc.

Oh and high F# is so easy on it. Low notes I need to give a bit more air too...but only a problem if other people are in the house 🙂

Thanks once again.

If low notes not speaking cleanly...might be a leak....

But glad you like it.

 

[LostCircuits]

Hi

Just wanted to say thanks for your advice on the Grassi. I ended up getting it. It does sound smoother (not sure if that is the correct terminology).

The only thing I could complain about is the low C# cup arm touches it's guide, so it clunks when opening. Looks like if it is shifted a millimeter it will be spot on. I'll get someone to do that - too scared to do that myself. Also it seems to play slightly sharp, but on the plus it is consistent across the range, might try a different mouthpiece etc.

Oh and high F# is so easy on it. Low notes I need to give a bit more air too...but only a problem if other people are in the house 🙂

Thanks once again.

If C# is playing sharp AND hits the key guard then it is most likely opening too far. If you mean the horn overall is playing sharp you need to adjust the mouthpiece or your embouchure.

You can try to add a small piece of felt to the keyguard or add a sliver of cork to the key touch to limit its opening (lower the opening height), which is the correct way of doing it and hopefully that will take care of both issues.

Best of luck!

 

[PigSquealer]

If C# is playing sharp AND hits the key guard then it is most likely opening too far. If you mean the horn overall is playing sharp you need to adjust the mouthpiece or your embouchure.

You can try to add a small piece of felt to the keyguard or add a sliver of cork to the key touch to limit its opening (lower the opening height), which is the correct way of doing it and hopefully that will take care of both issues.

Best of luck!

Low C# on this model doesn’t appear to have a guard.

the low C# cup arm touches it's guide, so it clunks when opening

Can you post a picture of this contact area ?

 

[LostCircuits]

Low C# on this model doesn’t appear to have a guard.

Can you post a picture of this contact area ?

Maybe it was retrofitted? My point was that it seems the key is opening too far, hence it plays sharp and hits something it is not supposed to hit.

"the low C# cup arm touches it's guide, so it clunks when opening"... guide or guard?