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Saxophones: gear, playing, repair, impro
My new "DIY" pads...
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<blockquote data-quote="DavidUK" data-source="post: 492831" data-attributes="member: 2853"><p>Update...</p><p></p><p>Testing different synthetic sealing materials meant getting duplicate sets of stainless backing discs from a local laser cutting firm.</p><p></p><p>I also experimented with the pad height adjustment and found the best way to adjust height is with M3 shim washers in 0.1, 0.2, and 0.3mm thicknesses. A wavy lock washer stops the adjusted height from moving.</p><p></p><p>I did the first set of seals by punching out seal discs of the correct diameter using two sets of various sized hole punches. Spray adhesive on the discs secures the seals. A tiny PEM nut holds a standard Music Medic domed reso to each seal and onto the M3 screw behind the disc.</p><p></p><p>Regulating the first set involved trying to keep the pad cup parallel with each tone hole as a reference from the 2nd identical (traditionally padded) Jupiter alto, then swapping out shims until all keys interacted perfectly. </p><p></p><p>A bit on my findings/theory regarding the importance of parallel pads to tone holes: </p><p>If the key cup pivot point is too high the pad (in my system), although self-levelled when it meets the tone hole, will be swept across the rim from the opposite side, i.e. dragged slightly toward the pivot point as it closes. This dragging adds minor unnecessary friction.</p><p>If the key cup pivot point is <em>too low</em> the pad will be pushed slightly away from the pivot point as it closes. Again, undesirable. </p><p>With traditional pads having a deep seat tone hole rim impression this sideways movement could also cause sticking as the pad has to defeat the steep sides of the seat whilst moving sideways slightly, friction again.</p><p>Whilst almost impossible to keep every cup to rim relationship parallel, it's something I'm keeping in mind when adjusting and regulating pads.</p><p></p><p>Still have an issue with G sounding a little quiet, sharp, and wispy - see my other thread of today's date.</p><p></p><p>The first seal is a smooth faced, low compression set, "space age" foam sheet. I have it in various thicknesses and softness. This one was fairly soft and 0.8mm thin.</p><p></p><p>I'm going to try a more spongey looking neoprene sheet next, as a comparison.</p><p></p><p>More soon, but not that soon...</p><p></p><p>Oh, and I may pop into TruSeal to say helli when I'm over there next month.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DavidUK, post: 492831, member: 2853"] Update... Testing different synthetic sealing materials meant getting duplicate sets of stainless backing discs from a local laser cutting firm. I also experimented with the pad height adjustment and found the best way to adjust height is with M3 shim washers in 0.1, 0.2, and 0.3mm thicknesses. A wavy lock washer stops the adjusted height from moving. I did the first set of seals by punching out seal discs of the correct diameter using two sets of various sized hole punches. Spray adhesive on the discs secures the seals. A tiny PEM nut holds a standard Music Medic domed reso to each seal and onto the M3 screw behind the disc. Regulating the first set involved trying to keep the pad cup parallel with each tone hole as a reference from the 2nd identical (traditionally padded) Jupiter alto, then swapping out shims until all keys interacted perfectly. A bit on my findings/theory regarding the importance of parallel pads to tone holes: If the key cup pivot point is too high the pad (in my system), although self-levelled when it meets the tone hole, will be swept across the rim from the opposite side, i.e. dragged slightly toward the pivot point as it closes. This dragging adds minor unnecessary friction. If the key cup pivot point is [I]too low[/I] the pad will be pushed slightly away from the pivot point as it closes. Again, undesirable. With traditional pads having a deep seat tone hole rim impression this sideways movement could also cause sticking as the pad has to defeat the steep sides of the seat whilst moving sideways slightly, friction again. Whilst almost impossible to keep every cup to rim relationship parallel, it's something I'm keeping in mind when adjusting and regulating pads. Still have an issue with G sounding a little quiet, sharp, and wispy - see my other thread of today's date. The first seal is a smooth faced, low compression set, "space age" foam sheet. I have it in various thicknesses and softness. This one was fairly soft and 0.8mm thin. I'm going to try a more spongey looking neoprene sheet next, as a comparison. More soon, but not that soon... Oh, and I may pop into TruSeal to say helli when I'm over there next month. [/QUOTE]
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