Your info tells me you are a pro player, so you have put in all the time needed for any quirky issues that may occur with saxes. Would I be in your shoes the YSS-82R would have been a great option. Alas, I am only a scientist and amateur musician. I have to economize on the time I spend with my instruments. It matters where's your starting point.But is circumspect intonation due to poor build/knowledge, or a compromise a little for a better sonority with the by-product being a bit pitchy in places. For me, I can fix pitchy easily
If you can find a Yamaha YSS-62 then go for it. See Stephen Howard's review on the YSS-62 and the YSS-475. I've had a Yanagisawa S901 soprano for 20 years and I've never been happy with it ... the intonation is appalling and it's a dull sounding horn which is only balanced out by a Lawton Bronze 9BB mouthpiece. If I had my way I would return to Yamaha (475) ...
I hear you. My standpoint is this: you can overcome intonation but tonal qualities can be harder to affect.Your info tells me you are a pro player, so you have put in all the time needed for any quirky issues that may occur with saxes. Would I be in your shoes the YSS-82R would have been a great option. Alas, I am only a scientist and amateur musician. I have to economize on the time I spend with my instruments. It matters where's your starting point.
The S901's in good working order, leak free with a reasonable action but, the S901 is not the same as the later models and I have handled plenty of sopranos. The 901 is hard work and you can't push it. Hence dull. I have collected plenty of mouthpieces for soprano over 50 years … including: Yani, Otto Link, Selmer and Lawton 9 Ebonites. I’m currently using a bespoke Bronze Lawton 8BB and a Brilhart.Wow. Yanagisawa sops are pretty much best known for their good intonation tendencies. If you have had the horn for 20 years and never been happy with it, I don't understand why you would keep it. Similarly, I have never played a Yanagisawa in good fettle that I would call dull. Your issues indicate to me that you have a horn full of leaks, and that your mouthpiece is a poor match for the horn.
Yes, Yanagisawa curvy sops are among the top sops on the market. I've had two SC-992 sops that were both wonderful instruments in every regard. I played them in modern big bands and classical quartet.
As I noted above (or at least I should have), almost everyone will want to put risers on the palm keys and side keys of these old Bueschers. As well as pretty much any other old soprano. That just comes with the territory of playing older saxophones.I really like my Buescher soprano, although I play my modern soprano more. I wouldn't say my modern curved soprano has either a nasal sound or overblown keywork. Certainly not oboe-like in tone.
The keywork on the Buescher (it's a straight True Tone) is absolutely tiny, and made for a player with very small hands. I have long fingers, and the palm keys are so low I cannot possibly reach them without moving my entire hand inwards, which feels very unnatural. For my 45 years of playing I have become very much accustomed to keeping my finger tips at rest over the touch pieces. This isn't possible for me with the Buescher when trying to play palm key notes, so although the tone is delicious and the intonation good, it doesn't get played that often. By contrast, my modern soprano feels very natural to play.
The same applies to a lesser extent with my Buescher True Tone alto. Beautiful tone, awkward ergonomics. Saxes have got much better to play over the years, at least for players with big hands. On alto I tend to play my Yanagisawa or battered, student Yamaha.
I've put on the tallest risers that I can find, and the keys are still too low. Now I have more time on my hands (I have recently retired) I may try fabricating some of my own.As I noted above (or at least I should have), almost everyone will want to put risers on the palm keys and side keys of these old Bueschers. As well as pretty much any other old soprano. That just comes with the territory of playing older saxophones.
Sugru is your friendI've put on the tallest risers that I can find, and the keys are still too low. Now I have more time on my hands (I have recently retired) I may try fabricating some of my own.
That's what I used for the risers on my Buescher True Tone Alto. On the soprano, the keys are so tiny I think I might need something a little more rigid. Maybe a combination of brass risers and Sugru.Sugru is your friend
Mhhh.... I have regular-size hands and I've never understood this problem, if anything, the palm keys get in my way if I am not careful. Instead of risers, I rotate the neck by a few degrees - just a little bit usually suffices until the keywork lines up with my hands to play comfortably. I don't mean to question you, rather, it's meant to be a general question. On the soprano, I rotate the MPC for the same effect, it literally raises or lowers the palm keys depending on which way I go.That's what I used for the risers on my Buescher True Tone Alto. On the soprano, the keys are so tiny I think I might need something a little more rigid. Maybe a combination of brass risers and Sugru.
The palm keys on a Buescher True Tone will certainly never get in your way, thay are tiny. I have fairly large, although not massive, hands, and the length of my fingers means that, with my fingers over the touch pieces, there is no way I can operate the palm keys. Rotating the mouth piece won't help, and it'll introduce another problem, of the main keys being out of line, which will create wrist discomfort due to being twisted off line.Mhhh.... I have regular-size hands and I've never understood this problem, if anything, the palm keys get in my way if I am not careful. Instead of risers, I rotate the neck by a few degrees - just a little bit usually suffices until the keywork lines up with my hands to play comfortably. I don't mean to question you, rather, it's meant to be a general question. On the soprano, I rotate the MPC for the same effect, it literally raises or lowers the palm keys depending on which way I go.
IOW, I am just curious if anybody has tried that. I see players on a regular basis who make sure the bell lines up in a straight trajectory with the neck and then they do all kinds of weird wrist contortions to compensate. or else have the MPC dangle off-axis so that they can play. Again, I am just curious, no criticism.
And yes, I know folks with pan-size hands and get it when they have issues.
3D print plus Sugru?
There is never one solution that works for everybody. I think we can all agree on that 🙂The palm keys on a Buescher True Tone will certainly never get in your way, thay are tiny. I have fairly large, although not massive, hands, and the length of my fingers means that, with my fingers over the touch pieces, there is no way I can operate the palm keys. Rotating the mouth piece won't help, and it'll introduce another problem, of the main keys being out of line, which will create wrist discomfort due to being twisted off line.
A much better option. Play my modern curved soprano, which has keys designed for adult hands. Incidentally, it's not an expensive soprano, it's a Bauhaus Walstein, bought about a dozen years ago. It plays in tune, has a good tone and excellent ergonomics.
