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Saxophones Vito models and parts

Nice, good to know. I've worked on 20+ vito saxes and this is the first one with these plastic pivots. I dont love them. They seem fragile and crappy. I'm definitely going to come up with an alternative.
They may seem that way but they actually work quite well. I bought my 7133T used in 2010 from a Canadian selling on US eBay. Paid about $400, a school loaner or rental. (Case had a number stenciled on its end.) It is my regular player in community band. Puts out a beautiful subtone in its lower register.

Sax now has new pads, mechanism still works fine. But I suppose they don't handle rough use or abuse well?
 
They may seem that way but they actually work quite well. I bought my 7133T used in 2010 from a Canadian selling on US eBay. Paid about $400, a school loaner or rental. (Case had a number stenciled on its end.) It is my regular player in community band.

Sax now has new pads, mechanism still works fine. But I suppose they don't handle rough use or abuse well?
Yeah, well. I got the thing for under $100 because one of the 2 black pivots was missing. So I HAVE replace one. And the other...I might leave it be, might replace it. If it cracks finding the part is going to be all but impossible. I can't find the likes of it anywhere on the interwebs
 
I got the thing for under $100 because one of the 2 black pivots was missing.
Good price on a project alto. I got a thread on a Jupe Vito 7133 alto I'm restoring, cost a touch more plus ship and tax, but latest model. They revised the pivot to brass fork mechanism for sliding when key pressed. Did away with the plastic completely.

A previous owner / player used an incompatible cleaner that stripped away lacquer, well tarnished in open spots.
 
Good price on a project alto. I got a thread on a Jupe Vito 7133 alto I'm restoring, cost a touch more plus ship and tax, but latest model. They revised the pivot to brass fork mechanism for sliding when key pressed. Did away with the plastic completely.

A previous owner / player used an incompatible cleaner that stripped away lacquer, well tarnished in open spots.
Yeah. That's kind of my plan too, I got KHS to send me a brass fork key that was...close to what this model has. I am gonna file the rod down and maybe move the posts Juuuuust a little to fit it into place. Found the thing in a pawn shop in Canada on a day trip. I love vito horns for students, and I even have one for my tenor (cuz i spent all my personal budget on my bari and moutpieces). It'll do good by a middle schooler in my area once its done I hope.
 
They're very not quiet, or efficient. Worst side key linkage design ever. Their only saving grace is that they're not made of metal.
Honestly the "not made of metal" part is what I hate. They can Crack and warp easier, get lost easier, and as a tech i can't just bend em to fix em. I have to try and buy a replacement part, which is...impossible basically.
 
Honestly the "not made of metal" part is what I hate. They can Crack and warp easier, get lost easier, and as a tech i can't just bend em to fix em.
How old is this ? How long did they last ? Bend to fix what ? It appears this system has stood the test of time.
I have to try and buy a replacement part, which is...impossible basically.
You have a working sample on hand. Duplicate two. 6mm Nylon or brass rod. Three holes, two cuts.
 
How old is this ? How long did they last ? Bend to fix what ? It appears this system has stood the test of time.
Say, 1989 makes it 37 years old. My tenor, both still operate fine.
You have a working sample on hand. Duplicate two. 6mm Nylon or brass rod. Three holes, two cuts.
Looking at mine, actually only 2 holes are required: 1) through center of the diameter for the pin on the pad key portion. 2) Transverse hole for the pin on the lever key portion activating the pad key portion.

I know the revulsion to using "hobby parts", but my solution may be K&S aluminium or brass rod from Hobby Lobby.
 
How old is this ? How long did they last ? Bend to fix what ? It appears this system has stood the test of time.

You have a working sample on hand. Duplicate two. 6mm Nylon or brass rod. Three holes, two cuts.
Nah, there are more parts missing too. The rod is missing, or maybe the mechanism was even different on the other side key. I'm not even sure how it was put together because I can't find a picture of a functional one with all the pieces. I'm not sure how old it is. I found it at a pawn shop. I'm guessing the 80s based on serial number but its a wild guess. A lot of inatrument Repair is bending the metal to fix minor misalignment and with these little plastic rotator thingies you can't really do that. Especially if they Crack or get lost. I just don't like the mechanism. I probably will leave well enough alone with the one I do have, but the one missing parts I'm not rebuilding something just like this. Its not a good mechanism
 

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That would actually be really cool of you. Im super curious what the side C looks like. Mine is missing parts
No wait, the side C is the one that DOES have the black plastic. The b flat has this hole instead of a rod and the black plastic this is either lost or never existed. Either way some piece is missing

I have it in a billion pieces right now, so I forget which is which lol
 
Say, 1989 makes it 37 years old. My tenor, both still operate fine.
So if a part were equally duplicated it should last at least half of that time.
Looking at mine, actually only 2 holes are required: 1) through center of the diameter for the pin on the pad key portion. 2) Transverse hole for the pin on the lever key portion activating the pad key portion.
Depends on how you approach the machining. 6” of material. The part looks under 15mm x .250. On a lathe turn down 38.1mm in length to correct OD or not, drill the center 3,0mm hole about 1.375 in. Index position of first transverse hole. V block on pillar drill that .118 hole. Back to lathe to part off to length. One done. Index and repeat for second part…. Three holes, two cuts. The OD is optional.
I know the revulsion to using "hobby parts", but my solution may be K&S aluminium or brass rod from Hobby Lobby.
Hobby grade for this application is fine. Aluminum is too dissimilar. Galling could be an issue. ABS I’m thinking to brittle.
 
No wait, the side C is the one that DOES have the black plastic. The b flat has this hole instead of a rod and the black plastic this is either lost or never existed. Either way some piece is missing

I have it in a billion pieces right now, so I forget which is which lol
I doubt they made two different parts assemblies. They are most likely interchangeable.
 
Nah, there are more parts missing too. The rod is missing, or maybe the mechanism was even different on the other side key. I'm not even sure how it was put together because I can't find a picture of a functional one with all the pieces. I'm not sure how old it is. I found it at a pawn shop. I'm guessing the 80s based on serial number but its a wild guess. A lot of inatrument Repair is bending the metal to fix minor misalignment and with these little plastic rotator thingies you can't really do that. Especially if they Crack or get lost. I just don't like the mechanism. I probably will leave well enough alone with the one I do have, but the one missing parts I'm not rebuilding something just like this. Its not a good mechanism
Yeah, seems like the need to bend stuff wasn’t engineered in for repair. I’m still learning and don’t know about these things. Looking forward the the results of your $80 score.
 

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