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The modern digital era has made necessary for anyone on the Internet to acquire at least a minimum of photographic skills in order to be able to use pictures for a number of purposes on the web.

Of course we all know the old proverb: “ A picture is worth a thousand words “ so, in many ways taking pictures helps anyone to better describe anything also when attempting to ask for information on something that we are trying to identify or perhaps sell.

While in order to pursue this goal it is not necessary, for most of us, to become an accomplished photographer and acquire backgrounds, studio lights or an expensive camera to make what we want to show particularly “ beautiful”, it is at lest desirable that we can, at the very least, document well what we want to show by making the best use of what we have available to us.

Unfortunately, these last few years, despite digital cameras having become reasonably priced and of a very good quality indeed, many have taken to use the mobile phone instead of the camera. In some case it is very possible to use the better phones and tablets to do that but it is obvious to me that the majority of people don’t own phones which are capable to be used for this purpose and if they do, they don’t really know how to use them.

So, in order to produce usable images, I would prefer using, a very modest but proper camera, to shoot any pictures of my saxophones and I would warmly recommend you to do the same.

Here a few simple instructions to do just that.

The best way to depict a saxophone is to lay it down flat on the floor or a low table.

So many put a saxophone on a stand and take a picture, from a high viewpoint , standing beside the saxophone, shooting, at the very best a decent picture of the neck. This won’t do.

I normally place the saxophone on a low white table. The room where I shoot these pictures has white walls and has two windows on each side.

Consider the fact that generally a saxophone is made of reflective metal and it will reflect what’s around itself.
So, shooting the pictures in a room with white walls and ceiling will certainly help taking a good picture. The closer they are to the saxophone the more the metal will reflect an even surface. However if you put you saxophone is a so called “ light tent” uniformly lit on all sides, it will reflect only a white surface making it appear made of a white or gold surface but because there is no reflection you won’t perceive it as be made of metal.

Some degree of reflection is, in fact, good. Our brains translate that into "an object made of metal ".

The window(s) provide a good light source for the purpose of showing your saxophone, you don’t really need a source of artificial light. Keep things simple unless you want to study photography and get to a different level.

First of all make sure that you have a tripod. You are likely to want to use a narrow aperture and a slow shutter speed (even if you shoot automatic) and, in order not to blur the pictures with undesired motion, the only accessory that I absolutely recommend is a tripod and a sturdy one too!

Place the camera more or less on top of the saxophone or at a slight angle and focus or make sure the autofocus is actually pointed at a relevant bit of the saxophone and not the background. If your camera has a “ macro” setting, often indicated with a flower or a tulip, select it and use it.

If you can chose the aperture use one with f-stop value around 8 to 11 this will guarantee the best optical results and keep everything in focus. Since even shooting with the tripod might cause a motion blurred picture when you depress the shutter release button, use the self timer of the camera, this will allow you also to move away because otherwise your image will be reflected in the saxophone.If you see that too much of the environment is reflecting in the saxophone, you can help a little the image if you put , for example a white styrofoam panel in from of the tripod to prevent its reflection in the saxophone.

I often shoot things with myself reflected in the saxophone and don’t always protect the tripod and still achieve decent result. Experiment! Good Luck!

Conn 6M right side.jpg
 
that is exactly why I wanted to keep things as simple as possible in my resource contribution.

My assumption was that if one understands terms like RAW , one knows how to deal with this things already but if one doesn’t understand that, then it will be too complicated to give a quick recipe for taking good pictures because you have to start from the very beginning of digital photography.


Raw files, however, are files containing digital data as they are produced by the sensor and processor of the camera and are considered “ unaltered” ( it is not really like that but they are for the purpose of this note) they are considerably larger than jpeg and are not the fruit of data compression as it happens with jpeg’s . That is why they contain more information that one can manipulate with less damaging results.

There is no reason to concern yourself with this.

Keep shooting as you are doing.

If bracketing works for you do that.

If you want to use live view to watch the image on the screen ( inside your home it won’t be so difficult to evaluate the image on the LCD and it will be the same or better than using the compact camera) do that.

Resetting to factory standards your camera will bring it back to the settings it had when you camera came out from the shop.

There is a very good and real chance that you have been altering some camera settings and that now the first body is not working as it should ( and the second too) because you have modified something that you don’t understand.

With your particular camera, resetting to default settings is done by means of pressing two buttons at once .


Here, read about the procedure, it is not difficult but if you are not sure how to do it go to the shop and they will do it for you

The Nikon D90 Companion
 
if one understands terms like RAW
I guessed this but couldn't resist the reference to my sax. Sorry!
Resetting to factory standards your camera will bring it back to the settings it had when you camera came out from the shop.
When I was forced to read the manual while struggling with my first D90 I discovered a simple way of re-setting it to normal. It made no difference.
 
from where I sit it is impossible for me to know what is wrong with your camera but if you tell me that you have now a second body showing problems I would be inclined to think that the “ problem” is the common factor connecting the two cameras.

And I am afraid that that will have to be you . No offense.
 
Raw files, however, are files containing digital data as they are produced by the sensor and processor of the camera and are considered “ unaltered” ( it is not really like that but they are for the purpose of this note) they are considerably larger than jpeg and are not the fruit of data compression as it happens with jpeg’s . That is why they contain more information that one can manipulate with less damaging results.

There is no reason to concern yourself with this.

It is my understanding that this is indeed true, given that there are vastly different levels of jpeg compression. At the very low level of compression which equates to the highest quality (as used by digital cameras) I would defy anyone to actually spot the difference.

Where things can deteriorate is if you keep editing and saving then re-editing and saving again with jpg as the compression builds up and so distorts a bit more with each save.

What the amateur should do unless you pics are only ever needed small, is to set the camera men to a high quality/size jpg.

In practice if you are going to edit in Photoshop or similar, then it's fine to open a high quality jpg but if you want to save as you go along with various edits, then always save as "lossless" e.g. tiff or .psd Photoshop format. Then output your final file to jpg for distribution.

Going a little off topic now, maybe I will do the separate resource I mentioned on photo editing in Photoshop and other applications.
 
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I've been grateful to discover that mostly, sax owners taking pics for their ads have not been tempted to use their duvet/bed sheets as a setting for their sax, as opposed to a disturbing proportion of guitar/bass players attempting to sell their instrument.

Please do NOT photograph your beloved guitar/bass/sax on your grubby unmade bed. It is NOT an appropriate background setting for something that you're hoping to sell to someone. Thank you
 
I've been grateful to discover that mostly, sax owners taking pics for their ads have not been tempted to use their duvet/bed sheets as a setting for their sax, as opposed to a disturbing proportion of guitar/bass players attempting to sell their instrument.

Please do NOT photograph your beloved guitar/bass/sax on your grubby unmade bed. It is NOT an appropriate background setting for something that you're hoping to sell to someone. Thank you
Now you've dunnit

Planted a seed

If I ever sell a sax, how shall I resist using a Tracey Eminesque backdrop?
 
Haha, that's always a danger with someone saying 'you shouldn't do this'.

As a photographer working with digital images for 20 years, I can add my endorsement to the benefit of working with RAW. It may be getting too technical, the ability to read and understand the histogram, is paramount.
 
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