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Saxophones: gear, playing, repair, impro
(Re) Painting my sax?
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<blockquote data-quote="JayeNM" data-source="post: 556206" data-attributes="member: 4504"><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">OK, so I read thru this entire thread, I think. <img src="/x-custom-smilies/scratch-head.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":headscratch:" title="Headscratch :headscratch:" data-shortname=":headscratch:" /> <img src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20xmlns%3D%22http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%22%20viewBox%3D%220%200%2064%2064%22%3E%3Ctext%20x%3D%2250%25%22%20y%3D%2250%25%22%20text-anchor%3D%22middle%22%20dominant-baseline%3D%22central%22%20font-size%3D%2254%22%3E%F0%9F%98%B1%3C%2Ftext%3E%3C%2Fsvg%3E" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="22" height="22" alt=":eek:" title="Eek! :eek:" data-smilie="9"data-shortname=":eek:" /></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">From a tech point of view here is something SIGNIFICANT which I do not believe has been touched upon:</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">What happens when it gets dented ? What happens when the toneholes need leveling ? What happens when there is some play in the keywork between posts which needs to be addressed ? Neck pulldown or whacked out of plumb ? A resolder of a post or keyguard foot ? </span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">Etc, etc...</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">All of the above, TYPICAL repair work....require that the elements of the brass (body, posts) be MOVED in order to address these (typical repair) issues. Posts get tapped with mallets to re-align them, dents gotta be taken out with balls and rods from the INSIDE, which does stretch the metal. Or that torch heat be applied (even changing out a pad requires a torch).</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">This is NOT a good finish for a sax, quite honestly. </span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">Typical servicing and repair work is gonna likely start causing flaking and cracking of the paint. I have experienced this in repair work on painbted horns, even ones done at an autobody shop with pro applicators and prep work. </span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">Secondly....there is NO DEBATE...you cannot apply a new finish, even with brushes...to an ASSEMBLED SAX. </span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">Come now, folks....unless you wish it to look like a mediocre DIY job, this isn't even a viable path to take.</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">*I know I may be coming off as a wet blanket here, people seem pretty excited about painted horns (baffling to me, but I accept it)...but you wanna consider things like I have mentioned here.</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">That's a Selmer, France ?!?! I would NEVER do a painted finish on a model of any significnat value. Nor ever suggest it. Save the experimentation for a Cecilio.....</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">Personally, a self-DIY-refinish ? You don't wanna spring for a pro refinish (plating, for example) ? Just go with some sort of metal patina process, and research what kind of sealer can be used to keep the stuff from coming off within the first 6 months. </span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">There are products out there for this, better than just hardware-store purchased stuff. I use products from a supplier in Arizona which speacializes in colorants for exterior metal sculptures, and they specify which metals which products work best on...for example.</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(85, 57, 130)">OK, done.</span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JayeNM, post: 556206, member: 4504"] [COLOR=rgb(85, 57, 130)]OK, so I read thru this entire thread, I think. :headscratch: :eek: From a tech point of view here is something SIGNIFICANT which I do not believe has been touched upon: What happens when it gets dented ? What happens when the toneholes need leveling ? What happens when there is some play in the keywork between posts which needs to be addressed ? Neck pulldown or whacked out of plumb ? A resolder of a post or keyguard foot ? Etc, etc... All of the above, TYPICAL repair work....require that the elements of the brass (body, posts) be MOVED in order to address these (typical repair) issues. Posts get tapped with mallets to re-align them, dents gotta be taken out with balls and rods from the INSIDE, which does stretch the metal. Or that torch heat be applied (even changing out a pad requires a torch). This is NOT a good finish for a sax, quite honestly. Typical servicing and repair work is gonna likely start causing flaking and cracking of the paint. I have experienced this in repair work on painbted horns, even ones done at an autobody shop with pro applicators and prep work. Secondly....there is NO DEBATE...you cannot apply a new finish, even with brushes...to an ASSEMBLED SAX. Come now, folks....unless you wish it to look like a mediocre DIY job, this isn't even a viable path to take. *I know I may be coming off as a wet blanket here, people seem pretty excited about painted horns (baffling to me, but I accept it)...but you wanna consider things like I have mentioned here. That's a Selmer, France ?!?! I would NEVER do a painted finish on a model of any significnat value. Nor ever suggest it. Save the experimentation for a Cecilio..... Personally, a self-DIY-refinish ? You don't wanna spring for a pro refinish (plating, for example) ? Just go with some sort of metal patina process, and research what kind of sealer can be used to keep the stuff from coming off within the first 6 months. There are products out there for this, better than just hardware-store purchased stuff. I use products from a supplier in Arizona which speacializes in colorants for exterior metal sculptures, and they specify which metals which products work best on...for example. OK, done.[/COLOR] [/QUOTE]
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