Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

Life around the barn.
Tales from a pig that likes to stick his nose into everything.

Paint that S. How difficult could it be ?
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1) Search the net.
2) Find the color.
3) Order color.
4) Study task on University of YouTube, aka; For destruction by DYI presented by pro tech.
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Do the cleaning & prep.
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Paint and cleanup / detail the edges with hard cotton swabs. Sounds easy……:confused:
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Yeah tha guy Matt makes it look easy.
Anyone remember your first experience cooking bacon crispy while still in the frying pan !
 
Next. Well honestly I have several I’ll be starting in the next few days.
This is an 1940 Martin Committee two tenor in original condition. Recently acquired and the (new ?) pads it came with are too thick.
Need to investigate wots needed .

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Looks like Mr PS will be entertaining our guest Mr PS during the project. A warm welcome to Mr Positive Sloth 😊
Is that ornament on the low C guard functional in regulating the height of the key?
 
Took the afternoon off and worked on the gifted Evett & Schaffer.
Replaced / added some cork work. A couple of regulation adjustments. Body octave pad was missing and the crook needed a bit of TLC. A missing pad, spring and hinge rod. The key mount had been removed for unknown reasons.
I’m challenged on what to invoice myself too. 🤔
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….and the crook needed a bit of TLC. A missing pad, spring and hinge rod. The key mount had been removed for unknown reasons.
I’m challenged on what to invoice myself too. 🤔
So I started by reattaching the octave key mount. I’m really getting more comfortable with the new little micro torch.
This time zero cleanup work. Perfect no, but I’m very satisfied.
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Next I measured the needed spring length. Do notice that I didn’t get the solder to flow all the way around the mount. It’s solid enough with about a 85% fill. There was a risk getting that last 15%. I didn’t want to risk having the pillar fall off the plate. Also I quit with no big mess. A conservative judgement call.
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Next was to remove the remaining shard of existing spring. This may seem like it doesn’t have much value, but don’t be so quick to discard the scrap. There’s still useful information to be had and used from this tiny morsel of metal. Starting with this having two holes for proper mounting. Overkill or proper restoration? I prefer the latter if possible.
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Once removed. I measured the flat spring thickness. This at several points. Then averaged- judgement call. It’s been mangled, bent and deformed some over the last 123 years. Besides the length, curvature and width. The thickness Is a very important measurement. If you can’t find one of adequate thickness. Stack two ( or more) if needed to achieve a similar result. The curve / final tension can be adjusted. It’s a craft to make working parts like this. Normal everyday small stuff….and it’s all small stuff.
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This is also a dual touch octave system. There is no return spring on the touch arm. All the closing force & feel is provided by the crook (neck) key spring.
.
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Next was to remove the remaining shard of existing spring. This may seem like it doesn’t have much value, but don’t be so quick to discard the scrap. There’s still useful information to be had and used from this tiny morsel of metal. Starting with this having two holes for proper mounting. Overkill or proper restoration? I prefer the latter if possible.View attachment 34344
I'd say it's an aftermarket mod, kinda like rally stripes to stretch the octave. Functionally, there isn't any advantage provided by the back screw other than preventing the spring from rotating. Unless it's a heavy mass screw, of course.
 
A spring selected from modern inventory stock. It’s time to dig for a second screw. Over the years I’ve purchased some oddball assortments for these (unknown) needs. This unit is well pre WWII & pre WWI of French make. Standardized metric threads didn’t exist.
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Who ever the previous tech was that had this ($25) assortment. Well, he kept good notes. “Fr sax flat springs”. That makes the $25 screw worthwhile 😊
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I'd say it's an aftermarket mod, kinda like rally stripes to stretch the octave. Functionally, there isn't any advantage provided by the back screw other than preventing the spring from rotating. Unless it's a heavy mass screw, of course.
A beefy spring. Small fine thread screws. Do I feel lucky with just one holding the thick spring ?
The closest hole and shorter spring ? The makers had a reason for two screws. But yeah, one could do.
 
With the mount repaired, a spring and second screw in hand. It’s time to make all the bits fit.
The hinge rod I took on loan from the Palm D. These too are speciality spares. A shoulder screw. I’ll get all the parts finished and then make one😉
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With one screw holding the spring in place. Palm D as hinge pin. I mounted the assembly to check for correct spring length and fit into the spring box (saddle?). A bit too long is better that being short. The width was just fine to the box.
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