Miscellaneous Motorbikes

[PiccoloPirate]

Thanks for the details, Señor Pig and
Will only make a side car if the kids buy some acreage in the Rockies.
It would be a clamp on, for occasional use, and a governor on the throttle, 20-25 mph.

Having a metal cutting bandsaw, mill and rotary table, makes the mod work fun.

When often asked, "the Mercury oil for my Verado 600hp, is much more expensive than the oil at the discount store, what do you use?"
My reply, only Mercury oil, and
we also use it on salads prior to
casting off. 🎶🏴‍☠️🎶

 

[PigSquealer]

Thanks for the details, Señor Pig and
Will only make a side car if the kids buy some acreage in the Rockies.
It would be a clamp on, for occasional use, and a governor on the throttle, 20-25 mph.

Having a metal cutting bandsaw, mill and rotary table, makes the mod work fun.

You’re very welcome. It’s not a easy task.
A well intentioned project under researched can get expensive.
My biggest concern is safety.
Going the wrong way and colliding with something is real. Also going head over teakettle is real.

All I can say is that my lifetime experience is different than most other people. I’ve seen and ridden some REALLY scary rigs and survived.

My only surviving picture from 2001 and 24hr world record off-road score. Seen here as passenger. For 653 miles I was the only ever to be both passenger and driver.

Mini Squealer and I April 2010 on 1969 TR6R, my father’s last motorcycle. I added the Velorex sidecar after three years restoration assembling the Triumph. I received it in boxes.
1098 miles on four days. Pic @ Carmel Valley West end.

December the same year.

About summer 1994.

Whatever your adventures or building project needs. I will try to help my very best. 😉

 

[mark_addy]

The clutch I took out had minimal wear. I still have the bike and the part worn clutch plates.

I don't know if you could be arsed - but I have done OK with a blowlamp in cases like this. Last one was the brake shoes on the big lathe at work, which actually stops when you stand on the panic bar now. Until it leaks enough all over them, again.

 

[PiccoloPirate]

Have some older better pics, with bike on patio somewhere.
Just took these and will take it out this week to clean the sawdust off and get it ready for more work.
Fiberglass back of seat on carving machine table, will house brake/tail light and turn signals. Front turn signals will be mounted to headlight sides.
Hope wet weight will be about 300lbs or less.
Electrics and battery on aluminum plate under seat.
EPA in '79, had Yamaha put round rubber pieces between cooling fins and only a 32mm Mikuni.
Never bought the 36 from White Bros, as I wanted to keep the push/push throttle control.
Might need help when ready to install a new carb, and try to make the control work.
I'll carve the foam saddle and see who can make a cover in Red leather with Black piping.
Port side of tank, will have the company graphics, just the initials, in the style of the OEM.
SgtV gunstocks and guitars, est 1974.

 

[PiccoloPirate]

Bikes that can go from the hard, and into beach sand, Enduros rule.
Better choices for tires these days, for sure for 21" fronts.

One of the MCS bikes from long ago.
Have a Model 34 hanging somewhere.

Ten minutes later, 4 year old grandson got it right.
He's 9 now and pretty good on the slopes.
Hope they have a better Winter than last year.

 

[PigSquealer]

I don't know if you could be arsed - but I have done OK with a blowlamp in cases like this. Last one was the brake shoes on the big lathe at work, which actually stops when you stand on the panic bar now. Until it leaks enough all over them, again.

Clutch.
I would have tried removing, wash in petrol, deglaze both fiber & friction discs. Then measure the fiber thickness. Anything less than 50% left….. I’d donate them to the bin.

Dry drum brake shoes oil soaked. Spray on aerosol brake parts cleaner and quickly wipe. Gently heat with blowtorch until the oil appears again. Let cool so you don’t have a flash fire. Spray wipe heat repeat.

 

[PigSquealer]

Have some older better pics, with bike on patio somewhere.
Just took these and will take it out this week to clean the sawdust off and get it ready for more work.
Fiberglass back of seat on carving machine table, will house brake/tail light and turn signals. Front turn signals will be mounted to headlight sides.
Hope wet weight will be about 300lbs or less.
Electrics and battery on aluminum plate under seat.
EPA in '79, had Yamaha put round rubber pieces between cooling fins and only a 32mm Mikuni.
Never bought the 36 from White Bros, as I wanted to keep the push/push throttle control.
Might need help when ready to install a new carb, and try to make the control work.
I'll carve the foam saddle and see who can make a cover in Red leather with Black piping.
Port side of tank, will have the company graphics, just the initials, in the style of the OEM.
SgtV gunstocks and guitars, est 1974.

View attachment 37608
View attachment 37609

Those stupid rubber slugs between the cooling fins on barrel never stayed around very long. Only bike I know of that has a sight glass on cam end for starting position. The starting drill… lever “click”, window check, key on, kill switch to “run” and kick ! Three attempts on a cold day was a good start.
I see you have a turkey baster 😎 Do the mod for cam oil line ?
I swapped the 32mm carb for 40mm Mikuni flat slide and big Unifilter. Similar Supertrapp with around 14-16 plates.
That’s a WFO setup. Not for trail or moto-X. A right handful lean spot issue. You’ll be fine with the push-pull 32. Good running control from stop to half with chair added. Just go up on jets & lower clip on needle. Adding a chair they run leaner. Check the gas cap vent ! WB is great company. I miss Tom White. Most of my carbs I bought from SUDCO. Specifying the setup or asking for help.
The seat you can probably buy a new OE cover. Tons of vintage new Yamaha parts available. I have a DT2-250.
Shaping seat is fun and messy. I shape using a 4” to 6” wire wheel. Bench motor or hand drill. Put some holes in that glass pan to clear the frame and use to secure the upholstery. Glass to vinyl / glueing is challenging. Oh, the red crossbar pads on race hack. Marine grade for cushions 👍👍
Why does my right shin ache looking at the foot pegs 🤣

 

[PiccoloPirate]

Kids said they are closing on a second animal hospital, and any acreage might just be a small place at a ski resort for now.
Grandkids 9/6, take lessons at Winter Park but ski at other areas further away from home, so maybe Wolf Creek or?

Pic of carb area, and might just have the 32 renewed. 🧐
Lotsa parts in that carb.
Señor Pig, any ideas?
Thx

Will be out in the backyard, for a cleaning later today or in the morning.

 

[PiccoloPirate]

When it was a month old, parked at the apartment, while waiting for the house to be built, someone tried to steal it.
Mrs and a buddy, saw the crook, and the Police station was around the corner.
When I got home, spoke with the Cop that caught the kid.
Cop said that he saw the kid get launched in the air, trying to kick it over, and the kid was off to the hospital then jail.
I showed the Cop how to safely start the beast.
He was not a Motorman, as some of my friends were.

 

[arbin]

Most all true with one exception. Synthetic oil hides 10mm sockets & spanners more the 13mm.

I quit drinking synthetic 2 days ago and have since found 37 10mm sockets, standard and deep well. I recommend it.

 

[PigSquealer]

@PiccoloPirate 1981 ? I looked it up. Shows a TM 36mm Mikuni ?
Order a carb kit and have a local shop rebuild it. Do inspect the intake boot for age related cracks / leaks. SUDCO or Yamaha vintage sources should have the correct part.
SUDCO US importer of Mikuni. Ask / seek help on jetting specifications. This to compensate for sidecar load and altitude. You’re at sea level. Potentially 5,000’ elevation in CO. Note you have the Supertrapp exhaust system too.

Sudco Intl. Corp. - Carburetors

 

[PigSquealer]

Pic of carb area, and might just have the 32 renewed. 🧐
Lotsa parts in that carb.
Señor Pig, any ideas?

Yes a good amount of small parts. The inside most likely has dried fuel. A hard to remove varnish. A quality MC shop will have a chemical tank to soak it very clean. There’s some very small passages that are impossible to DIY clean.
You do have the upgrade oil line to exhaust side of cam.
To remove the carb. First soak the cable securing fitting with penetrating oil. Back the locking/ adjuster nuts off to clear the stays. Loosen clamps on air boot and intake manifold. If possible to completely remove the air boot do so. It’s old and may crack.
Lift the top cable out of stay then rotate anit clockwise the bell crank, extract the cable end sideways by alignment to slot. Be careful not to kink the cable.
Lift lower cable out of stay.
Back the carb body out of intake. It’s going to take a good grunt to get it out ! Knuckles be warned !!
Now the fun part is getting the lower cable off the bell crank. The accelerator pump arm is in the way.
Hold carb to favor the cable being inline with slot. Lift cable & barrel out some. Rotate bell crank anti- clockwise until the barrel clears the pump arm. All this while trying not to kink the cable🤪

 

[PiccoloPirate]

It's a 1979 and the carb is a VM32SS.
It was rebuilt in '06 and has never been used.
I just put it back on the bike, and it's been sitting since then.
I let a local shop do the work once I removed the carb, then put it back on.
Cost about $120 for parts and labor in '06.
Old OEM parts.

Will take some pics after it's sawdust free.

I often roll the throttle and rotate the crank as it sits in the woodshop.