Tech/maintenance lacquer repair on a Conn Naked Lady

If this was on my bench. I would go with the suggested Semichrome polish or a white automotive polishing compound/ cleaner wax. Flow a good amount on the surface, light pressure and use a soft cotton terry towel. Work the surface gently in big circles until the material darkens. Wipe clear and repeat until I have achieved the desired result. Final with a hard 100% carnuba wax or ceramic wax. Removing all the lacquer is not something I care for. Preservation is just fine for me.

View attachment 31949
that's going to damage the engraving - I've stopped just in time...if you draw those red lines along the engraving then you get my idea....basically, masking the engraving with something and then do the polishing - then remove the stuff used to protect the engraving and job done (in theory).
 
Sure seems like an awful lot of trouble to go to, to avoid taking an old T shirt and some metal polish and just shining it up by hand.

Reminds me of the people who'll look at you like you have three heads if you suggest that a sharp handsaw is the best tool to remove 1/2" off a 3" board. OK, go right ahead and run that spinning circular saw blade past your thumb - the only left thumb you'll ever be issued - with half an inch to spare. Not me.

Same thought process seems to be in place here. More tools! Power tools! Floor paper on a DA sander! Heaven forbid you consider doing it by hand!
 
Sure seems like an awful lot of trouble to go to, to avoid taking an old T shirt and some metal polish and just shining it up by hand.

Reminds me of the people who'll look at you like you have three heads if you suggest that a sharp handsaw is the best tool to remove 1/2" off a 3" board. OK, go right ahead and run that spinning circular saw blade past your thumb - the only left thumb you'll ever be issued - with half an inch to spare. Not me.

Same thought process seems to be in place here. More tools! Power tools! Floor paper on a DA sander! Heaven forbid you consider doing it by hand!
Watching telly while doing this isn't a chore (it's a labour of love...tlc - then Mortimer & Whitehouse's program isn't that "visual" and ideal for this sort of jobs).
Then, whether the polishing is done by hand with cloth the result is the same you are doing some abrasion on the engraving = you have some limits on how much you can polish = a compromise.
My way the engraving is going to stay in place 100% - no matter what I do to the rest (can be heavy handed if necessary).
 
hand.

Reminds me of the people who'll look at you like you have three heads if you suggest that a sharp handsaw is the best tool to remove 1/2" off a 3" board.
I’m also in favour of the old handsaw. I have circular saw and a chop saw but I built a 4 meter garden pergola without using them, I just considered it good exercise and also learned how to do birdmouth joints for the sloping rafters.

It wasn’t all me though, I had help:

IMG_5101.webp
 
I’m also in favour of the old handsaw. I have circular saw and a chop saw but I built a 4 meter garden pergola without using them, I just considered it good exercise and band also learned how to do birdmouth joints for the sloping rafters.

It wasn’t all me though, I had help:

View attachment 32479
‘band also learned how to do birdmouth joints’ struck me as ‘interesting’.
Disappointed to find it is a woodwork technique I knew how to do but didn’t know the name.
 
that's going to damage the engraving - I've stopped just in time...if you draw those red lines along the engraving then you get my idea....basically, masking the engraving with something and then do the polishing - then remove the stuff used to protect the engraving and job done (in theory).
I think you’re confusing machine buffing and compounds with the use of hand applied polishing cleaners. Pressure and cutting compound on fast spinning wheel VS ultra fine polish with combined cleaning agent by hand are completely different. I do understand your concerns of best care outcome. Nothing wrong with being conservative. Interesting attempts at masking / protecting the engraving. What are your ideas on evening/ cleaning those areas once the masking is removed??
 
I think you’re confusing machine buffing and compounds with the use of hand applied polishing cleaners. Pressure and cutting compound on fast spinning wheel VS ultra fine polish with combined cleaning agent by hand are completely different. I do understand your concerns of best care outcome. Nothing wrong with being conservative. Interesting attempts at masking / protecting the engraving. What are your ideas on evening/ cleaning those areas once the masking is removed??
Good observation...what about the pristine engraving with original patina while the rest around is mirror polished? No one knows, and that's part of the fun (my guess is the patina is going to help the engraving to stands out).
Then, I prefer to play and practice music rather than repairing old saxes but when I got some spare time I'm going to finish this experiment and post the final results (mind you it can be months).
 
I think it would need a gorilla to polish out engraving by hand. You're only taking off dirt and verdigris. Microns.

It's a brass tube with patterns cut lightly into the surface. It's not a gilt finish. A light clean and shine, by hand, won't affect the engraving. IMHO.
I've been careful and still noticed some changing - the engraving is still there but if I want the mirror/polished effect there is no way the engraving isn't going to be affected if not disappearing completely. This is why I've stopped and thought about a way to preserve/protect the engraving completely eg. masking (apparently even the pro repairman never thought about this?).
 
Get some masking tape from a modeling shop. Airplanes, ships, war figures, trains, that sort of thing. The brand to get is Tamiya. It comes in various widths. Alternative is to get pin striping tape from an automotive paint/detail shop.

Stateside AKA Rafter or Stairwell cut. I too had to lookup “Birdmouth joint”. Always something to learn about saxophones here🤣
Not to be confused with a joint in Bird’s mouth…
 
Get some masking tape from a modeling shop. Airplanes, ships, war figures, trains, that sort of thing. The brand to get is Tamiya. It comes in various widths. Alternative is to get pin striping tape from an automotive paint/detail shop.


Not to be confused with a joint in Bird’s mouth…
I've just found out there are pin striping tape of 1mm - that's very helpful indeed (that's what forums are for, thank you).
Then, I've searched for the actual engraving design...Conn must have an archive with all of them (including mine) - but then, I've never thought there are so many "naked lady" logo variants around (it's mesmerizing)...I've just given up - never mind, I'll take my time.
 
I've searched for the actual engraving design...Conn must have an archive with all of them (including mine) - but then, I've never thought there are so many "naked lady" logo variants around (it's mesmerizing)...I've just given up - never mind, I'll take my time.
I doubt you'll find what you're looking for. There may have been a general template for the shape of the scroll work and banners where the lettering went, but the craftsmen had a lot of leeway in the details. The rumor is that some even made the lady face look like their girlfriend/wife/daughter/whatever. They were all done by hand by many different engravers. Tons of variation.

This is probably well before your horn was made, but you get the idea.
Conn-engraving-department.webp
 

Similar threads... or are they? Maybe not but they could be worth reading anyway 😀

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