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detect a leak and make leak light?

Anyone know a good tech around the Leicester area?:headscratch: (was looking for a can of worms emoticon but couldn't find one)!

It's definitely a tricky one I traveled 50 miles to give one a try but fortunately he was ACE but he doesn't come cheap, he's serviced the 62 and I'm booked in for my Selmer to be fettled will let you know who it is if your interested .....John
 
Blimey John, that doesn't say much for Mancunian techs, I would have thought there would be good ones more local.

And there probably are Dave, I have no problems with John Clark at Johnny Roadhouse though unfortunately he doesn't seem to get such good press on here,and it probably would have meant leaving the sax with him till it got to the front of the queue, John has no shortage of work, I had heard good things about this guy and wanted to give him a try, and it worked out great ....All the best ....John
 
Unbelievable! the strip light I bought yesterday landed this morning....brilliant! such a shame it doesn't work! I give up...

I went down this road some time ago during a previous thread on the subject and bought a strip light on eBay 99p needed connecting to a transformer if that's what you call them, couldn't get it to work so during a spate of gas bought 2 ready mades offove the dreaded,again both if memory serves me right were about £15,which it often doesn't unfortunately because my wife recently was showing a ring to my sons fiancé to see if she would like to borrow it and apparently I had bought it for her a couple of years ago for Christmas and she liked it so much she has a special dark and out of the way draw to keep it in, I have absolutely no recollection of buying this gift what so ever, especially as I learnt the lesson that buying anything for her without prior approval was not a good way to go, but I digress, one was a 240 v number the other a low voltage one, both of the strip light variety arrived on the same day and the 240v was very dim indeed, but the low voltage was excellent, which I suppose proves that power isn't everything, anybody fancy a 240v strip light cheap .......John
 
It's not really the answer. Pressing harder tends to strain fingers and joints. And even then these little leaks mean the pads don't seal instantly, leading to a lot of squeaks/difficulty in getting some notes.

Sorry Kev

Only joking you have to be carefully about being taken literally don't you, I have actually struggled on with the 62 in this condition ie a few leaking pads but they couldn't be sorted they were shot and needed replacing which as I have already said I have had done now and I am over the moon with it now so get it sorted by a tech is the best advice ......John
 
Ah silly me! had it wired wrong....works well and very bright, found a bit of light showing on the f keycup with normal pressure, squeeze a bit harder and it disappears, and a bit on bottom b, again it disappears if I squeeze everso slightly more than normal. am wondering now do I or don't I have two leaks....but looking at the bigger picture, does it effect my playing? hmm not really so I guess all is well in Skaville....

Now the fun starts.

Diagnostic tools are heaps of fun. I've got one for my Beemer...plugs into a test socket under the dash and lets me connect a laptop to it. Tells me all sorts of things...few of which make any sense at all.

So, you've got a couple of pads showing chinks of light.
The first question is "Where does the light come from?". If it comes from the rear of the pad (where the cup arm joins the cup) then it might mean that the pad has shrunk a little - a thinner-than-spec pad will show a leak at the rear. If it's coming out of the front then it could mean the pad has 'blown' - expanded due to moisture.

Leaks from the sides usually mean a shrunken pad...or a warped tone hole/key cup.

When it comes to the bell key pads it's often the case that some impact damage is at the root of any leak - perhaps the bell has taken a slight knock in the case. This often shows up by both the B and Bb pads showing light from the front of the pads. Slightly more rare is light showing at the rear - which may mean the bell has had a knock in the opposite direction. It's rarer because the bell always seems inclined to go one way rather than the other.

Fixes, then.
If you have regulation adjusters on the stacks (small screws set into the Aux. bars that runs along the back of the key stacks) you might be able to improve the sealing of the F pad by backing out the corresponding screw a tad...but you'll need to keep an eye on how well the Aux.F pad closes (and the G# when using the bell notes).
If this works it might leave you with a spot of double-action on the F key which will need to be tidied up.

Not much you can do about the bell key leaks, unless you want to get into bending keys or shifting pillars - and there's also the option of resetting the pads (heat, flames, fire, burns, pool of molten brass etc.).

Or...with the aid of a flat, blunt piece of wood (old reed, suitably cut) it might be possible to poke the sides of the pad adjacent to the leak to 'fluff up' the felt core a little. Some care is needed in order to avoid piercing the leather. If you're very careful you might even be able to get away with using a small screwdriver...provided the blade isn't sharp. Don't use it as a poker though..it's more a case of inserting the tip between the edge of the pad and the key cup and then using the flat of the tip to push the pad or (gently) lever it up.
Might not completely fix it, but might improve it a bit.

One final point...now that you have a leak light, never rely on it for the final diagnosis. Always defer to the feeler method - it gives a much better sense of what's going on.

Cheers,

Steve
 
Nice one. You can buy little adapters to connect LED lighting to the power supply - i.e. a little socket with a couple of connectors.
The old rope light seems to be being phased out and is now replaced by the LED strip lights. You can buy a roll of this stuff quite cheaply but then you need to get the appropriate power supply which varies according to the length. Assuming you want a 1meter leak light you can bend some strip light so that it doubles up which will be a 2M length. That will need a 1amp poser supply which you can get with an adapter for under a tenner.
This stuff is knobbly and a bit flimsy so you need to stick it in a length of clear pipe to protect it. I got some 14mm clear tubing which is used for ponds etc. Stick the LED strip in there and tape up the end where you've attached the adapter and there you are. Flexible leak light which won't break and will reach the length of a tenor sax and fit in clarinets as well.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-V-Volt...=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item19ee330253
 
That's a nifty little gadget, that connector thingy.
I've nicked your idea Steve, and bunged it in the article....but I've given you the credit for it.

I like the strip-led idea too, but as yet haven't tested one to see how it stands up to the task...so I'll bung it on my to-do list.

Cheers,

Steve
 
On feeler gauges:
I use a bit of video tape. (Remember those?) It's mainly because the cigarette papers get spoilt if they get wet and woodwind tend to get a bit of moisture in them. I glue a couple of bits of cork at one end to form a handle and cut the other end to a point. Sometimes after a bit of use the tape can get a bit crumpled but you have plenty more on a video cassette so can easily replenish.
For clarinets and flutes I use a bit of audio cassette tape. Some prefer the leader (clear) part of the tape rather than the oxide coated brown bit. The issue you come across with this is when static deflects the tape you can't get it in to where you want it to go very easily - so I do tend to use both paper and tape.
 
What's a wall-wart?

A lot of cell phone chargers are 12v dc. And there are a lot of them around.

Here you can buy a switched mains socket that plugs into a normal socket, so assuming they're available for UK plugs, that's an easy safe switch.

Avoid the flexible strips, they quickly break once you start pushing them around the bell for the bell keys.
 
Flexible strips don't break if they are housed in a clear tube as I described. The strip just sits loosely in the tubing so can move around when the tube is flexed.
Originally I stuck the strip to a piece of center cane used for seat weaving or basket making. It held the strip in place so I could poke it inside instruments, but the strip just broke whenever it was under stress. It was also a pain with it not being in a tube like rope light as the LEDs kept catching.
So I found some flexible plastic pipe to put it in. I pushed the strip in with the cane and then removed it so just the strip is in the tube. I've not had any issues so far.
Ideally you don't want to be forcing things round the bow of a sax. You can push my strip light round there though because the tubing is getting stressed not the strip light.
 
Sorry Steve, but the flexible strip I have does just that, even though it's in a clear tube. It work hardens and breaks at the joins in the sections of the strip. I've ended up soldering bridging wirres across the breaks, as soldering the breaks just does the same thing. Perhaps you're using a different flexible strip, I don't know. But it really helps to bend the light around the bow for the keyes down there. Also helps to get the light gripped in the sax, so it doesn't slide out every time you move it...
 
Recently Ikea launched a LED lamp, HÅRTE model, which can easily be transformed into a leaklight.

harte-led-work-lamp__0243818_PE383097_S4.JPG


It does require some work if you want to use it for a tenor while it is usable, as is, for alto and straight soprano. The work required is to CAREFULLY (not damaging the flimsy wire) cut, by means of a metal pipe cutter, the base of the lamp and then removing it probably disconnecting at the switch level.

Alternatively, you could buy the other lamp “ Dioder” and use only one of the 4 elements.

dioder-led--piece-lighting-strip-set__53205_PE153426_S4.JPG
 

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