Saxophones Pork Tales: Saxophone Repair DIY Adventures.

Life around the barn.
Tales from a pig that likes to stick his nose into everything.

Paint that S. How difficult could it be ?
1747869014621.webp


1) Search the net.
2) Find the color.
3) Order color.
4) Study task on University of YouTube, aka; For destruction by DYI presented by pro tech.
1747869824677.webp



1747869909688.webp


Do the cleaning & prep.
1747870236970.webp


Paint and cleanup / detail the edges with hard cotton swabs. Sounds easy……:confused:
1747870401847.webp


Yeah tha guy Matt makes it look easy.
Anyone remember your first experience cooking bacon crispy while still in the frying pan !
 
Nothing much happened today…
Crook as received. Although I’ve already made a rough hinge rod, one that resembles a fit bit. The patient here is an 1918 Conn NW1 tenor. It’s actually in good mechanical condition. Just needs some barn time. Maybe a little sweet red apple 🍎 too.
1775114843558.webp

1775115356883.webp

A slight adjustment to the octave key and a pillar pops off. I was just testing the needed adjustments.
1775115507248.webp


No surprise as a full 1mm spot was holding the pillar in place. At least the previous person made a honest attempt to do good. Look at the first photo. They didn’t overheat the area. If flux was used, it was cleaned off 👍👍. They didn’t go beyond.
This kind of work takes practice and plan on things going not well for your first while. My best suggestion, don’t abuse the heat.
Cooked parts are hard to salvage. “Ya all be cool”
1775115788336.webp
 
Clean the parts well. Tin the parts. Apply some flux. (Showing the pillars as tinned/ fluxed).
1775116984929.webp

Secure the bits in place. Leaving room for adjustments. Don’t overwork the parts. Take small steps and work to crafting a working final pleasing part.
1775117364080.webp

1775117443489.webp

The copper wire sourced from automotive wire. Get creative !
If that melts. Well, you’re running a bit hot…. Observing is a skill. Learn heat 🥵. Copper melts after solder.
1775117568037.webp
 
A 108 year old part that I’m reasonably happy with. The previous tool marks I can’t do much about. It is what it is.
The final polish was achieved with unknown silver polish (Avon product of 1980’s ? Acquired at yard sale, 6 bottles for $1) and all done by hand. NO power buffing tools. Just a cotton wrag and sliver of old cotton t-shirt. First cleaned with a toothbrush and same polish . Nothing fancy.
1775119451443.webp

1775120059575.webp

1775120094332.webp

The gray areas are where the solder is showing its face. Keep in mind this is viewing at 25X.
1775120442834.webp

1775120590654.webp
 
Waiting for contact cement to dry on cork. This bit is placed just above the halo on key arm. Its purpose is only to prevent the arm denting the crook body. Storage protection in case cubby area. It has nothing in functional need for regulating the action.
1775121164361.webp


If you have a unit with the teardrop style key…. You get two dents in your neck if there’s no preventative measure taken.
 
If you have a unit with the teardrop style key…. You get two dents in your neck if there’s no preventative measure taken.
Here’s an example of a Selmer style fix.
1775122865230.webp


Place a felt or cork in this area to hinder damage contact. This is not specifically a Selmer issue. All makers with this design have this potential 🤬….. life in a case.
1775123332680.webp
 
Is that the original neck angle for that horn? Looks much more open than I'd expect on an NW1.
Yes, this is best I know of being an original example. The upwards angle of the cork end in pictures above are deceiving.
This is the 1918.
1775610619658.webp


This is my 1916 that has suffered some pulldown. At the time of repair I had no example to work from. It was in bad shape
1775610700869.webp

1775610922831.webp
 
Well, I guess there is a fine line between patina and grime. The stencil alto I just started was one of the filthiest things I have seen. Even after ultrasonic cleaning it needed quite a bit of cleaning. A lot of the nickel plating from keys and hinge tubes is just a memory. It’s hard to wax and protect the surface of something like that.
An ultrasonic cleaner is a good tool for the right job. A ultrasonic tank wouldn’t be my first choice on a nickel plate horn. Especially if you can’t suspend the parts in the solution. Nothing should be touching the bottom or walls. Frequency settings are critical.

Be very careful waxing nickel parts or body with the plating flaking off. Those flakes are like nickel razor blades.
 
This gift was a big shock. A 1903-4 Evette & Schaffer tenor or C Melody ? I need to study this one more. Too short for tenor, too long for a C mel. Palm E is partially on the receiver area. It’s most likely HP (no stamp) tenor @ 27”, but it’s a US import stencil Carl Fischer so? Otherwise I know what this is. More later and maybe on the C Smelly thread😉
An amazing gift from the Oleg Garbuzov collection.
1775808676199.webp
 
Next. Well honestly I have several I’ll be starting in the next few days.
This is an 1940 Martin Committee two tenor in original condition. Recently acquired and the (new ?) pads it came with are too thick.
Need to investigate wots needed .
1775811157016.webp

1775811244479.webp


Looks like Mr PS will be entertaining our guest Mr PS during the project. A warm welcome to Mr Positive Sloth 😊
1775811668144.webp
 

Social

New! Social Feeds

Look out for the navigation icon:

Follow CafeSaxophone

Trending

Forum statistics

Topics
32,031
Messages
577,396
Members
8,110
Latest member
Chocolate sax
Back
Top Bottom