Straight (Orsi) Soprano B & A/Side C questions...

[DavidUK]

I knew this Orsi 115A stencil for Leslie Shepherd needed some corks and it's just about sorted other than two queries for our esteemed techs here.

1/ When C is played depressing the A key , there's a lever (directly below the A key in the first photo under) which comes up under the side C arm...

...this looks as though it wants to push open side C, but it doesn't make contact with the side C arm when A is fully depressed, as here...

...Is it supposed to open side C? Why?
If it IS supposed to open side C, how far open should side C be when A is fully depressed... as far as when side C is itself depressed? Or somewhere in between? I'd have to put a fairly large chunk of cork in place of the current one to open side C fully.

2/ I have double action under the B key, best described by this short video (which also adds in the A/side C query above...

View: https://youtu.be/0i9tAdH4RVU


I did notice on another straight sop I have there's a similar A key "foot" with cork under it to buffer it against the body tube, as there is with the Orsi, but with no cork on top of the foot.

As here...

Thanks for any help!

 

[Stephen Howard]

Yes, there's supposed to be a buffer under the top B cup arm. It's used to regulate the closing of the Aux.B key (the small key just above the B).

The cork on the top of the A key foot is superfluous. The stack keys all have quite long feet, so its position underneath the side C key is coincidental. I've no idea why someone corked it, unless it was hitting the side C key and they couldn't be bothered to fix it.

 

[DavidUK]

Thanks Steve, that's what I suspected regarding the A key foot.

For the buffer under the B arm, would I get away with test fitting a piece of cork under it then, when happy with the action, removing the cork, putting a tiny drop of superglue on the top of it, and sliding it in again to set glued to the arm? Otherwise I have to pull the top stack hinge rod. Not a big deal really, but maybe unnecessary.

 

[Stephen Howard]

For the buffer under the B arm, would I get away with test fitting a piece of cork under it then, when happy with the action, removing the cork, putting a tiny drop of superglue on the top of it, and sliding it in again to set glued to the arm?

Yes, that should work just fine - though you'll probably need to sand cork a little afterwards.

 

[DavidUK]

Yes, that should work just fine - though you'll probably need to sand cork a little afterwards.

...due to the thickness of the superglue?

 

[Stephen Howard]

That, and the repositioning of the cork.

 

[jbtsax]

Wouldn't adding to the cork where the B arm contacts the "front bar" connected to what Stephen calls the "Aux.B" (which I call the C) upset the regulation? Adding to the cork under the foot of the B key to lower it would remove the "double action" (lost motion) without changing the regulation. Or am I seeing it wrong, and need another cup of coffee this morning?

 

[DavidUK]

The B key has no foot to put cork under in order to lower it. Plus, if the B key was lowered it would reduce the gap between it and its tone hole, already fairly small.

I've put a tiny piece of cork under the B arm to stop the double action and it seems OK. I may take it to Paul Carrington for a set up, along with some others, so will report back if he suggests a different fix. Not worked on a straight sop before and it's all quite cramped up there so best let a tech take a look in the flesh to be sure.

 

[SaxBoss]

I may take it to Paul Carrington for a set up, along

That would be interesting. Could you report back with some pictures once he has done the regulation?

 

[Stephen Howard]

The B key has no foot to put cork under in order to lower it. Plus, if the B key was lowered it would reduce the gap between it and its tone hole, already fairly small.

Yes it does, second foot from the left in your opening shot.
If in doubt, press the B key down and watch the rear of the stack.

 

[DavidUK]

Ah yes, foot found!